atjr  S. 1.  Hill  Ctbrarg 


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735 


THE  COAL  TAR  COLOURS 

OF 

FARBWERKE  vorm.  MEISTER  LUCIUS  &  BRUNING 
HOECHST  on  MAIN,  GERMANY 

AND  THEIR 

APPLICATION  IN  DYEING 

COTTON 

AND  OTHER  VEGETABLE  FIBRES. 

SECOND  VOLUME. 


H.  A.  METZ  &  CO. 

122  HUDSON  STREET,  NEW  YORK, 
SOLE  AGENTS  FOR  THE  U.  S.  A. 

—  1907.  ===== 


INDEX. 


Volume  II. 

Page 

Part  III:    The  Application  of  the   Cotton  Dyestuffs. 

Cotton  Colours  classified  according  to  special  properties 1 

The  Dyeing  of  Cotton  in  its  unspun  state 21 

a)  loose  cotton 21 

b)  carded  cotton 26 

c)  cotton  rovings 27 

Patterns  of  Yarns  spun  of  dyed   loose  cotton 28 

Cotton  Yarn  Dyeing 33 

a)  Yarn   in   Hanks " 33 

Patterns  of  dyed  Yarns 40 

b)  Weaving  Yarns       41 

c)  Cops  and  Cheeses 54 

Methods  of  Aftertreatment  for  altering  the  handle 57 

Cotton  Yarn  Printing 62 

Linen   Yarn   Printing 96 

Patterns  of  Printed  Yarns 97 

Cotton  Piece  Dyeing 103 

Preparation   for  dyeing 103 

a)  Dyeing  in  the  cistern 105 

b)  Dyeing  on  the  jigger        107 

c)  Dyeing  on  the  padding  machine 109 

d)  Dyeing  in  continuous  machines 110 

e)  Padding  and  Foularding 113 

Washing  of  dyed  goods 123 

Drying  of  dyed  goods 125 

Further  treatment  of  dyed  fabrics 126 

Half  Silk  Dyeing 126 

Patterns  of  Half  Silk  effects 132 

The  Dyeing  of  Lace,  Braids,  Ribbons  and  Twine 133 


88958 


PART  III. 


THE  APPLICATION  OF  THE  COTTON 
DYESTUFFS. 


-«=*§*=— 


PREFACE. 


Having  introduced,  in  the  previous  two  chapters,  both  separately  and 
in  groups,  our  colours  used  for  dyeing  vegetable  fibres,  we  now  proceed 
to  discuss,  in  the  following  third  part,  the  practical  methods  of  dyeing,  —  in 
so  far  as  it  has  not  already  been  done  in  the  second  part  —  for  Indigo, 
Alizarine,  Azo  Colours  developed  on  the  fibre,  Aniline  Black  and 
Diphenyl  Black. 

Naturally,  this  survey  cannot  be  exhaustive.  Considering  the  immense 
variety  in  the  employment  of  vegetable  fibres,  most  particularly  of  cotton, 
it  is  only  possible  to  select,  in  the  scope  of  the  present  work,  a  few  typical 
examples,  in  order  to  show  their  application  for  certain  purposes. 

A  principal  factor  in  the  use  of  dyestuffs  is  the  machine  industry. 
It  has,  therefore,  been  found  necessary  to  follow  also  with  close  attention 
the  improvements  and  simplifications  achieved  in  that  department. 

As  already  done  in  the  first  volume,  in  discussing  vat  dyeing  etc., 
we  illustrate,  in  the  following  pages,  the  various  methods  of  dyeing  by 
drawings  of  machines. 

We  give,  in  the  first  place,  a  classified  synopsis  of  the  properties  of 
our  Cotton  dyestuffs,  afterwards  entering  into  a  discussion  of  the  third  part, 
which  we  have  divided  into  the  following  chapters: 

1.  The   dyeing  of  Cotton   in   its   unspun   state. 

2.  Cotton   Yarn   dyeing  and   Cotton   Yarn   printing. 

3.  Cotton   Piece   dyeing. 

The  discussion  of  the  technical  aspect  is  succeeded  by  a  collection  of 
patterns,  and  the  chapter  concludes  with  a  short  description  of  dyeing  other 
vegetable  fibres. 


COTTON  COLOURS  CLASSIFIED  ACCORDING 
TO  SPECIAL  PROPERTIES. 


1.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  BLEACHING. 

No  colours  are  absolutely  fast  to  bleaching  i.  e.  no  colours  exist  which 
withstand  all  the  processes  of  boiling,  chlorinating  and  souring  without  loss  of 
depth.  Some  colours  are  fast  to  boiling  in  Alkali,  others  are  fast  to  chlorine 
and  acids,  but  not  a  single  colour  withstands  what  is  called  a  full  bleach  without 
being  at  least  partially  destroyed. 

If,  therefore,  dyed  material  is  to  be  bleached,  it  is  generally  advisable  to 
boil  it  without  pressure  with  soda  instead  of  soda  lye. 

Several  colours  withstand  this  application  satisfactorily;  they  are  therefore 
termed  colours  fast   to  bleaching. 

Alizarine  Red  No.  1,  Paste  20  %  on  Alumina  or  Alumina-Iron  or  Iron- 
Mordant  alone. 
Alizarine  Blue,  all  brands  on  Oil-Tannin-Chrome  Mordant. 
Indigo  MLB,  MLBR,  MLB/RR,  MLB|T. 
Aniline  Black. 
Diphenyl  Black. 

Alizarine  Yellow  GG  Paste,  5G,  on  Chrome  Mordant. 
Alizarine  Orange  N  Paste  on  Chrome  Mordant. 
Primuline,  chlorinated. 


1  ii 


b.   H.   HILL.   LiaKAFO" 
North  Carolina  State  College 


—  2 


2.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  CHLORINE. 

Besides  the  colours  enumerated  under  1,  the  following  dyestuffs  withstand 
the  process  of  chlorinating  with  chloride  of  lime: 

Alizarine  Yellow  R  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Alizarine  Orange  on  Alumina  Mordant, 

Alizarine  Dark  Blue  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O,  G, 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S, 

Aurophenine  O, 

Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  8BS, 

Metaniti  aniline  Orange, 

Paranitraniline  Red, 

Azophor  Red, 

Naphthylamine  Claret, 

Thiogene  Cyanine  O,  G. 


3.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  WASHING. 

A. 

The  following  colours  may  be  washed  in  hot  soap  and  soda,  without  changing 
their  shades  materially  nor  bleeding  into  white. 

Alizarine  Orange  N  Paste  on  Alumina  and  Chrome  Mordants. 

Alizarine  Red  Paste  20'J/o,  all  brands,  on  Alumina,  Chrome  and  Iron  Mordants, 

Alizarine  Claret  R  Paste,  on  Alumina  and  Chrome  Mordants, 

Alizarine  Brown,  all   brands,  on  Alumina  and  Chrome  Mordants, 

Alizarine  Blue,  all  brands,  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Alizarine  Dark  Blue  S,  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Alizarine  Green  S,  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Ceruleine,  all  brands,  on  Alumina  and  Chrome  Mordants, 

Galleine  A  Paste,  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Solid  Green  O  50°/o,  as  Bistrebrown  without  Mordant,  on  Chrome  and  Iron  Mordant, 

Indigo  MLB,  MLB/R,  MLB/RR,  MLB/T, 

Aniline  Black, 


treated  with  Bichrome  Copper  Sulphate 
and  Sulphuric  Acid. 


—     3 

Diphenyl  Black, 

Primuline  O,  chlorinated, 

Cresotine  Yellow  G, 

Dianil  Fast  Brown  B,  R, 

Dianil  Brown  3  GO,  MH, 

Dianil  Chrome  Brown  R,  G, 

Dianil  Black  N,  CR, 

Dianil  Fast  Red  PH,  treated  with  Fluoride  of  Chrome, 

All  Thiogene  Colours. 

B. 

Though  slighty  inferior  to    those  enumerated  above,    the  following   colours 
withstand  washing  and  soaping  satisfactorily. 

Alizarine  Yellow  R,  GG  Paste,  5G,  on  Chrome  Mordant 

Metanitraniline  Orange, 

Azophor  Orange, 

Paranitraniline  Red, 

Azophor  Red, 

Alphanaphthylamine  Claret, 

Dianisidine  Blue, 

Azophor  Blue, 

Nitroso  Blue, 

Auramine,  all  brands, 

Methylene  Yellow  H, 

Flavophosphine,  all  brands, 

Janus  Yellow  G, 

Janus  Brown,  B,  R, 

Rosazeine  4G, 

Rosazeine  Scarlet  G  extra, 

Safranine,  all  brands, 

Safranine  Scarlet  2G, 

Janus  Red  B, 

Methylene  Violet  3RA  extra,  2RA,  2RN,  BN, 

Primula  R,  soluble, 

Methylene  Heliotrope  O, 

Methyl  Violet  2B,  4B,  6B,   8B, 

Violet  Crystals  O, 

Rosolane  BO, 

Victoria  Blue,  all  brands, 

Methylene  Blue,  all  brands, 

Marine  Blue,  all  brands, 

Thionine  Blue  GO, 

Ethyl  Blue  BF, 


—     4     — 

N.  v.   Ethyl  Blue  BS,  RS, 

Indamine  Blue  N  extra,  K  Powder, 

[ndophene  Blue  B,  G.  RN, 

Janus   Blue  G,  R, 

Janus  Dark  Blue  R,  B, 

Methylene  Green  O,  extra  yellow  DG,  extra  yellow  cone, 

Janus  Green  G.   B, 

Janus  Black  I, 

Janus  Grey  BB, 

Methylene  Grey,  all  brands, 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O.  G,  treated  with  Bichrome  or  Copper  and  Bichrome, 

Dianil  Yellow  2  R,  :'>G,  treated  with  Bichrome  or  Copper  and  Bichrome, 

Direct  Dianil  Yellow  S, 

Primuline  O,  developed  with  Azophor  Red  or  Azophor  Orange. 

Also  the  diazotised  and  developed  shades  of: 
Primuline  O, 
Dianil  Brown  Mil,  BII, 
Dianil  Black  ES. 

Further : 

Dianil  Azurine  G,  treated  with  Copper  Sulphate, 

Dianil  Orange  N, 

Toluylene  Orange  R,  I     ,       ,        ,      .  ,     .        , 

~.     .,   .„     ,         '     _    ..    „„  i    developed  with  Azophor  Red. 

Dianil  Black  C  R,  R,  N,   PR,  '  v 

Dianil  Brown   3 GO,  G,  2G,  5G,  B,  R,  D,  M,    j 

Dianil  Black  N,  treated  with  Bichrome  and  Copper  Sulphate. 

C. 

The  folio  wing  colours  are  fairly  fast  to  washing: 
Azo  Phosphine  GO,  BRO, 
Janus  Yellow  R, 
Phosphine.    all   brands, 
(  lirvsoidine,  ,, 
Vesuvine,      ,,        ,, 
Safranine  Scarlet  5249, 
Magenta,  all  brands, 
New  Magenta  O, 
Cerise  G,  R, 
Grenadine,  all  brands, 
Maroon  extra, 

Methyl  Violet  5R,  4R,  3R,  2R,  B, 
New  Fast   Blue  3R  cryst, 
Fast   Blue  for  Cotton,  all  brands, 


Malachite  Green,  all  brands, 

Brilliant  Green  Crystals  extra, 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O,  G, 

Dianil  Pure  Yellow  HS, 

Dianil  Yellow  R,   2R, 

Cresotine  Yellow  G, 

Dianil  Orange  G, 

Toluylene  Orange  R, 

Dianil  Pink  BD, 

Dianil  Fast  Red  PH, 

Dianil  Claret  Red  G,  B, 

Dianil  Violet  H, 

Dianil  Fast  Brown  B,  R, 

Dianil  Brown  MH,  BH,  3 GO,  B,  BD,  D,  G,  2G,  M,  R,  3R,  X, 

Dianil  Japonine  G, 

Dianil  Indigo  O, 

Dianil  Blue  G,  HG,  H2G,  H3G,  H6G,  BX, 

Dianil  Azurine  G, 

Dianil  Dark  Blue  R,  3R, 

Dianil  Green  B,  G, 

Dianil  Dark  Green  B, 

Patent  Dianil  Black,  all  brands. 

Note:  Those  Dianil  Colours,  which  are  not  enumerated  under  C,  are  not 
sufficiently  fast  to  washing  generally,  although  they  might  still  be  suitable  for 
certain  purposes.  The  fastness  to  washing  of  Basic  Colours  is  increased  by  an 
aftertreatment  with  tannin  and  tartar  emetic. 


-« 3©C— 


4.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  WATER. 

The  dyestuffs  enumerated  under  3,  are  mostly  fast  to  water  (an  aftertreat- 
ment with  Solidogen  increases  the  fastness  of  the  Dianil  Colours  considerably); 
also  the  following  colours  are  fast  to  water. 

Eosine, 

Erythrosine, 

Phloxine, 

Rose  Bengale, 

Eosine  Scarlet, 

Cyanosine,  all  brands 


— =-»$)c=— 


treated  with  Solidogen. 


—   6   — 


5.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  PERSPIRATION. 

All  colours  with  exception  of: 

Brilliant  Orange, 

Brilliant  Croceine, 

Eosine,  | 

Erythrosine, 

Phloxine, 

Rose  Bengale, 

Dianil   Red  4B, 

Dianil   Red  K, 

Dianil  Claret    Red  G,  B. 


All  brands. 


6.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  BOILING  IN  ACIDS. 

Alizarine  Orange  N,  on  Oil-Alumina  and  Oil-Chrome  Mordants, 

Alizarine  Red,  all  brands,  on  "Old  Red"  Mordant,  except  brand  SDG, 

Alizarine  Blue,  | 

Ar      •       r>    i    di  All  brands,  on  Oil-Tannin-Chrome  Mordant, 

Alizarine  Dark  Blue,     |  '  ' 

Ceruleinc,  all  brands  on  Oil-Alumina  or  Oil-Chrome  Mordant, 

Indigo  MLB,  MLB/R,  MLB  RR,  MLBT, 

All  Thiogene  Colours, 

Methylene   Yellow   II, 

Auramine,  all  brands, 

Flavophosphine,  all  brands, 

Phosphine  GO, 

Rosolane  BO, 

Methylene  Violet,  all  brands, 

.Methylene  Heliotrope  O, 

Safranine,  all  brands, 

Rosazeine  Scarlet  G  extra, 

Rosazeine,  all  brands, 

Thionine  Blue  GO, 

Methylene  Blue,  all  brands, 

.Methylene  Green,  all  brands, 

Brilliant  Green  Crystals  extra, 

Malachite  Green,  all  brands, 


Victoria  Blue,  all  brands, 

Indophene  Blue,  all  brands, 

New  Ethyl  Blue  BS,  RS, 

Ethyl  Blue  BF, 

Indamine  Blue  N  extra,  R  Powder, 

Janus  Yellow  G,  R, 

Janus  Brown  R,  B, 

Janus  Green  B,  G, 

Janus  Blue  G,  R, 

Janus  Dark  Blue  B,   R. 

Developed  with  Azophor  Red: 

Dianil  Orange  N, 

Toluylene  Orange  R, 

Dianil  Brown  G,  2  G,  5G,  R,  M,  B,  D,  3  GO, 

Dianil  Black  CR,  R,  N,  PR. 

.    Diazotised  and  developed: 

Primuline  O, 
Dianil  Brown  MH, 
Dianil  Brown  BH, 
Dianil  Black  ES. 

Treated  with  Bichrome  and  Copper  Sulphate: 
Dianil  Brown  3 GO,  MH,  BH, 
Dianil  Fast  Brown  B,  R, 
Dianil  Chrome  Brown  R,  G, 
Dianil  Black  CR,  T,  N,  R, 

Primuline  O,  chlorinated, 

Aniline  Black, 

Diphenyl  Black, 

Solid  Green  Oo0°|o,  as  Bistrebrown, 

Azophor  Orange, 

Paranitraniline  Red, 

Azophor  Red, 

Naphthylamine  Claret. 

The  fastness  of   the  Basic  Colours  is  increased  by  an  aftertreatment    with 
tannin  and  tartar  emetic. 


— =*§*=- 


7    COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  ACID. 


a     A  drop  of  acetic  acid    12"  Tw. 
followin 
Methylene  Yellow  II, 
Auramine,   all   brands, 
Flavophosphine,  all  brands, 
Azo  Phosphine  GO,  BRO, 
Phosphine  O,  extra, 
Yellow  for  Leather  O, 
Chrysoidine   A   cryst.    C    extra    cryst., 
Vesuvine  extra  yellow,  cone,  2R, 

4  BG,  cone, 
Cutch  Brown  G,  D, 

G, 
Grenadine  O,  2  R, 
Maroon  O, 
Safranine,  all  brands, 
Safranine  Scarlet  2G,  5249, 
Magenta,  all  brands, 
New  Magenta  O, 
Rosazeine  Scarlet  G  extra, 
Rosazeine,  all  brands, 
Methyl  Violet,   all  brands, 
Violet  Crystals  O, 
Marine  Blue,  all  brands, 
Rosolane  BO, 

Methylene  Violet,  all  brands, 
Methylene  Heliotrope  O, 
Primula  R, 
I  hie nine  Blue  GO, 
Methylene  Blue,  ..11  brands, 
Victoria  Blue,  all  brands, 
Fast   Blue  for  Cotton,  all  brands, 
Indophene  Blue,  all  brands, 
New  Ethyl  Blue  BS, 
Ethyl  Blue  BF, 
Indamine  Blue,   all  brands, 

ill    brands. 
Pure  Blue  O, 
Cotton  Blue  extra, 
Cotton   Light   Blue  (  )  soluble, 
Methyl  Blue  for  Cotton  MLB, 
Methylene  Green,  all  brands, 


does  not  change  the  shade  of  the 
g  colours: 

Brilliant  Green  cryst.  extra. 

Malachite  Green,  all  brands, 

Methylene  Grey,  all  brands, 

Grey  for  Silk  O,   soluble, 

Janus  Yellow  G,  R, 

Janus  Red  B, 

Janus  Brown  R,  B, 

Janus  Blue  G,  R, 

Primuline  O,  chlorinated,  developed  with 
Azophor  Red,  or  diazotised  and  de- 
veloped, 

Dianil  Yellow  ;:  (1. 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O,   G, 

Dianil  Yellow  G,  R,  2R, 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S, 

Dianil  Orange  G, 

Dianil  Brown  5G,  A  (No.  8611),  G,  BH, 
2G,  R,  M,  B,  D, 

Dianil  Chrome  Brown  G, 

Dianil  Japonine  G, 

Dianil  Brown  MH,  diazotised  and  deve- 
loped, 

Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  8BS. 

Dianil  Scarlet  2R,  treated  with  Solid- 
ogen, 

Dianil  Fast  Red  PH, 

Dianil  Crimson  B,  G, 

Dianil  Claret  Red.  B, 

Dianil  Blue  I  ICG.  H3G,  G,  B,  H2G, 
R,  2R,  BX,  HG, 

Dianil  Azurine  G, 

I  )ianil   Indigo  O, 

Dianil  Dark  Blue,  R, 

Dianil  Green  B,  G, 
il   Dark  Green  1!. 

Dianil  Black  ES,  developed  with  Pheny- 
lene   Diamine, 

Dianil  Black  CR,  R.  N,  treated  with 
Azo]. hoi'   Red, 

Dianil   Black   PR, 


—     9 


Thiogene  Golden  Yellow  AO, 

Thiogene  Yellow  G,  GG, 

Thiogene  Orange,  all  brands, 

Thiogene  Brown,  all  brands, 

Thiogene  Khaki  O, 

Thiogene  Rubine  O, 

Thiogene  Dark  Red  G,  R, 

Thiogene  Cyanine  O,  G, 

Thiogene  Blue  B,  R,  RR, 

Melanogene  Blue,    B,  BG,  treated  with 

metal  salts, 
Thiogene    Green  BL   extra,    GL  extra, 
Thiogene  Black,  all  brands, 
Indigo  MLB,  MLB;'R,  MLB.'RR,  MLB/T, 
Alizarine  Red,  all  brands,  |  on  Alumina 
Alizarine   Claret  R,  or  Chrome 

Alizarine  Orange  N,  j     Mordant 


Alizarine  Yellow  5  G  Powder 

Galleine  A  Paste  on 

Alizarine  Blue  DN,  B,  SR  Paste  Chrome 

Alizarine  Green  S,  Mordant 

Ceruleine  S  Powder,  SW  Paste 

Brilliant  Orange  G, 

Brilliant  Croceine  R,  B,  blue  shade, 

Azophor  Orange, 

Azophor  Red, 

Paranitraniline  Red, 

Alphanaphthylamine  Claret, 

Diphenyl  Black, 

Solid  Green  50°/o,  as  Bistrebrown. 


b)  A  drop  of  acetic  acid  12°  Tw.  slightly  changes  the  shade  of  the 
following  colours. 

Dark  Brown  M, 

Janus  Green  B,  G, 

Janus  Black  I, 

Primuline  O,  developed  with  Resorcine, 

Dianil  Brown  3  GO, 

Dianil  Brown  5  G, 

Dianil  Japonine  G,  treated  with  Bichrome  and  Copper  Sulphate, 

Dianil  Brown  3R,  X, 

Dianil  Brown  MH, 

Dianil  Chrome  Brown  R, 

Dianil  Fast  Brown  R,  B, 

Brilliant  Dianil  Red  R, 

Delta  Purpurine  5B, 

Dianil  Scarlet  2R, 

Dianil  Pink  BD, 

Dianil  Violet  H, 

Dianil  Indigo  O,  treated  with  Copper  Sulphate, 

Dianil  Black  ES,  CR,  CB,  N,  T,  R, 

Patent  Dianil    Black  FF  cone,    FFC   cone,    FFT   cone,   FFA   extra 

cone,  RW  extra,   FB, 
Thiogene  Catechu  R, 
Thiogene  Heliotrope  O, 
Thiogene  Violet  B,   V, 

la  ii 


—     10 

Thiogene  Dark   Blue  BL,   BTL, 

Thiogene  Green,  all  brands, 

Alizarine  Brown,  <>n   Alumina   and  Chrome  Mordants, 

Alizarine  Yellow  GG    Paste,    i  _,  ,, 

.,.  ,.  ,,         . ,    ,,  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Alizarine   Yellow   K    Paste 

Alizarine  Blue  SB  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Aniline   Black. 


c)   A   drop    of   dilute    Muriatic   acid:    (100   [36°  Tw.] :    1000)    does    not 
change  the  shade  of  the  following  colours: 

Azo  Phosphine  GO, 

Phosphine  O,  extra, 

Rosazcinc  Scarlet  G   extra, 

Fast  Blue  for  Cotton  KB, 

Indophene  Blue  G,  B,  RN, 

Indamine  Blue  R   Powder, 

Cone.  Cotton  Blue  No.  I,  II 

Pure  Blue  O, 

<  iotton    Blue   extra, 

Cotton  Light  Blue  O,  soluble, 

Methyl  Blue  for  Cotton  MLB, 

Methylene  Green  O,  extra  yellow   DG,  extra  yellow, 

Methylene  Grey  NFD,  NFS, 

Janus  Brown  B, 

Janus  Blue  R, 

Primuline  O,  chlorinated,  developed  with  Beta-Naphthol,  Schaeffer's  Salt, 

or  Developer  for  Claret, 
Dianil  Yellow  3G,  treated  with  Copper  Sulphate, 
Oxydianil  Yellow  O, 
Dianil  Yellow  R,   RR, 
Dianil  Orange  G, 
Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  4BS, 
Dianil  Blue  II GG,  B,  G,  R,  3R,  4R, 
Dianil  Azurine  G, 
Dianil   Blue   BY 
1  lianil   Indigo  O, 

Dianil   Black  LS,  developed  with  Phenylene  Diamine, 
Dianil   Black   R,  N,  developed  with  Azophor  Red, 
Dianil  I '.lack  PR, 
Thiogene  ( trange   RG, 

Thiogene  Brown  GC,  treated  with  Copper  Sulphate, 
Thiogene  Brown  GR,  G2R,  R, 
Thiogene  Black  M  liquid,  B2R  liquid, 


—    11   — 

Thiogene  Black  M  cone,   MM  cone,   B2R  cone, 

Indigo  MLB,  MLB/R,  MLB.'RR,  MLB/T, 

Alizarine  IB,  No.  1,  2 A,  2 AG,  3RL,  5F,  on  Alumina  mordant, 

Alizarine  Orange  N,  on  Alumina  mordant, 

Azophor  Orange, 
Azophor  Red, 
Paranitraniline  Red, 
Naphthylamine   Claret, 
Diphenyl  Black. 


d)  Dilute  muriatic  acid   (100  [36°  Tw.] :   1000)    only  slightly  changes 
the  shade  of  the  following  dyestuffs: 

Methylene  Yellow  H, 

Auramine,  all  brands, 

Vesuvine,  extra  yellow,  cone,  2R,  4BG  cone, 

Rosazeine  4G, 

Thionine  Blue  GO, 

Methylene  Blue  BB  extra,  DBB  extra,  B  cone, 

Fast  Blue  for  Cotton  BB, 

New  Fast  Blue  3R  cryst., 

New  Ethyl  Blue  BS, 

Ethyl  Blue  BF, 

Indamine  Blue  N  extra  Powder, 

Cone  Cotton  Blue  R, 

Methylene  Grey  ND,  O, 

Janus  Blue  R, 

Janus  Blue  G, 

Janus  Dark  Blue  B,  R, 

Primuline  O,  developed  with  Resorcine, 

Dianil  Yellow  3G, 

Oxydianil  Yellow  G, 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S, 

Dianil  Brown  5  G,  X,  G,  BH, 

Dianil  Japonine  G, 

Dianil  Brown  MH,  developed  with  Phenylene  Diamine  or  Beta-Naphthol, 

Dianil  Brown  B,  D,  M,  R,  direct  or  developed  with  Azophor  Red, 

Dianil  Scarlet  2R,  developed  with  Solidogen, 

Dianil  Azurine  G,  treated  with  Copper  Sulphate, 

Dianil  Blue  2R, 

Dianil  Dark  Blue  R,  3R, 

Dianil  Black  R,  CB,  CR,  T,  N, 


—     12     — 

Dianil  Black  ES,  developed  with  Beta-Naphthol, 

Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone,  FFC  cone,  FFT  cone,   EF  cone,  FFA 

extra  cone,  R\V  extra,   FB, 
Thiogene  Golden  Yellow  A<  >, 
Thiogene  Yellow  GG,  G, 

■  (range  <  M  '•.  K,  RR, 

nr  Brown  <  il  , 
Thiogene   Khaki  O,  treated  with  Bichrome  and  Copper, 
Thiogene  Brown  K,  KR,  S, 

ne  Rubine  O, 

Thiogene  Dark  Red  G,   K, 

Melanogen   Blue  HG,  B,  both  treated  with  Fixing  Salt, 

Thiogene   Black  4  B  cone, 

Thiogene  Diamond  Black  V, 

Alizarine  Red  SDG  Paste  on  Alumina  mordant, 

Alizarine  Orange  N   t  _,  ,     1 

„  „      i    on  Chrome  mordant, 

Alizarine  Green  b 

Aniline   Black. 


— a®c~ 


8.    COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  IRONING. 


The    following  dyestuffs 

Methylene  Yellow  1 1, 
Flavophosphine,  all   brands, 
Phosphinc,  all  brands, 
Azo  Phosphine  GO,  BRO, 
Chrysoidine  A  cryst.,  C  cryst. 

cryst., 
Ve  uvine,  all  brands, 
Brown  D,  G, 
I  >ai  I.   Brown  M, 

ita,  all  brands, 
New   Magenta  I  \ 

.ill   brands, 
Grenadine,    all  brands, 
Maroon    <  >,    extra, 

Safranine  Scarlet  5249,  2G, 
Sali. mm'-,  all   brands, 


stand    hot  ironing  without    changing   their   shade. 

Methylene  Heliotrope  O, 
Methylene  Violet,  all  brands, 
Rosolane  BO, 

Methyl  Violet,  all  brands,  except  4  R,  5R, 
C  extra      Violet  Crystals  (  I, 

Marine  Blue,  all  brands, 
Victoria  Blue,  all  brands, 
Malachite  Green,  all  brands, 
Brilliant  Green,  all   brands, 
Rosazcine,  all  brands, 
Rosazeine  Scarlet   ii.  G  extra, 
Cone   Cotton   Blue,  all  brands. 
Pure  Blue,  all  brands, 
Methyl    Blue   tor   Cotton   MLB., 
Methylene  Blue,  all  brands, 
Thionine  Blue  GO, 


13 


Indamine  Blue  N  extra,  R  Powder, 

Ethyl  Blue  BF, 

Methylene  Indigo  O,  SS, 

Methylene  Dark  Blue  RBN,  3BN, 

Indophene  Blue  B,   G, 

Methylene  Green,  all  brands, 

Fast  Blue  for  Cotton,  all  brands, 

New  Fast  Blue  3R  cryst., 

Janus  Yellow  G,  R., 

Janus  Brown  B,  R, 

Janus  Red  B, 

Janus  Green  G,  B, 

Janus  Blue  G,  R, 

Janus  Black  I, 

Primuline  O,  chlorinated  or  developed, 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O,  G, 

Dianil  Yellow  3G,  G,  R, 

Dianil  Pure  Yellow  HS, 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S, 

Aurophenine  O, 

Cresotine  Yellow  G, 

Dianil  Orange  G,  N, 

Toluylene  Orange  R, 

Dianil  Brown  MH,    BH,    3  GO,  2G,  G, 

R,  BD,  D,  B, 
Dianil  Fast  Brown  B,  R, 
Dianil  Fast  Red  PH,    direct  or  treated 

with  Fluoride  of  Chrome, 
Dianil  Pink  BD, 
Dianil  Scarlet  G,  2R, 
Dianil  Red  R,  4B,  10  B, 


Brilliant  Dianil  Red  R,  R  cone, 

Delta  Purpurine  5  B, 

Dianil  Violet  H, 

Dianil  Green  G,   B, 

Dianil  Blue  G,  B,   R,  2R,  3R,  4R,  E, 

ET,  BX,  HG,  H2G,  H6G, 
Dianil  Dark  Blue  R,  3  R, 
Dianil  Black  R,  G,  CR,  PR,  PG, 
Patent  Dianil  Black,  all  brands, 
Dianil  Black  ES,  direct, 
Alizarine  Yellow  5  G,  GG  Paste,  R  Paste, 
Alizarine  Orange  Paste, 
Alizarine  Brown,  all  brands, 
Alizarine  Red,  all  brands, 
Alizarine  Claret,  R  Paste, 
Alizarine  Blue,  all  S  brands, 
Alizarine  Dark  Blue  S, 
Alizarine  Green  S  Paste, 
Ceruleine  cone,  S,  S  cone,  Paste  SW., 
Galleine,  all  brands, 
Indigo  MLB,  MLB/R,  MLB/RR,  MLB/T, 
Azophor  Orange, 
Paranitraniline  Red, 
Azophor  Red, 
Naphthylamine   Claret, 
Nitroso  Blue, 
Dianisidine  Blue, 
Aniline  Black, 
Diphenyl  Black, 
All  Thiogene  Colours. 


9.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  STEAMING. 

Indigo  MLB,  MLB/R,  MLBRR,  MLB/T. 
Solid  Green-Bistre, 
Aniline  Black, 
Diphenyl  Black, 


—     14     — 

Alizarine  Colours, 

All  Basic  Colours, 

Dianil  Colours,  treated  with  Metal  Salts  or  developed  with  Azophor  Red, 

Dianil  Colours,  diazotised  and  developed, 

Azophor  Orange, 

Paranitraniline  Red, 

Azophor  Red, 

Naphthylamine  Claret, 

All  Thiogene  Colours, 


10.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  MILLING. 

Alizarine  Yellow  GG  Paste,  5G,  on  Chrome  mordant, 

Alizarine  Orange  Paste  on   Chrome  and  Alumina  Mordants, 

Alizarine  Red,  all  brands,  on  Alumina,   Chrome  or  Iron   Mordants, 

Alizarine  Claret  Red  R,     I 

Alizarine  Brown,  j    on  Alumina  and  Chrome  mordants, 

Alizarine  Blue,  all  brands, 

Alizarine  Dark  Blue  all  brands,     I    on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Alizarine  Green  S, 

ileine,  all  brands,    on  Alumina  and  Chrome  mordants, 
Galleine,  all  brands,  on  Chrome  Mordant, 
Solid  Green  50%,  as  Bistrebrown, 
Indigo  MLB,  MLBR,  MLB/RR,  MLB   I. 
Aniline  Black, 
Diphenyl  Black, 
All   Thiogene  Colours, 
Primuline  O,  chlorinated, 
Cresotine  Yellow  G, 
Dianil   Chrome  Brown  R  and  G, 
Dianil    Brown  SGI  >,   Mil,        , 

Dianil   Fast    Hi  own   B,  R,  chromed  in  an  acid  bath, 

1  M.mil    Black    CR,    G,   N,  T,  J 

Fairly  fast  to  milling  are: 

Janus  Yellow  I  r, 
Janus  Brown  B,  R. 
Janus  Blue  R,  G, 


—     15     — 

Janus  Green  G,  B, 

Janus  Grey  B,  BB, 

Methylene  Yellow  H, 

Flavophosphine  2  G  cone,  new.,  GR, 

Thionine  Blue  GO, 

Methylene  Violet  3RA  extra, 

Methylene  Heliotrope  O, 

Methylene  Blue  BB  extra,  DBB  extra,  B  cone, 

Indamine  Blue  N  extra,  R. 

Ethyl  Blue  BF, 

Indophene  Blue  B,  G,  RN, 

Methylene  Green,  all  brands, 

Methylene  Grey,  all  brands, 

Primuline  O,  diazotised  and  developed, 

Dianil  Orange  N 

Toluylene  Orange  R    J    developed  with  Azophor  Red, 

Dianil  Brown  D 

Dianil  Fast  Red  PH,  treated  with  Fluoride  of  Chrome, 

Dianil  Brown  MH,  BH     )     J.        .     ,        ,    ,      . 

^.     .,   „,     ,    „„  I     diazotised  and  developed, 

Dianil  Black  ES 

Dianil  Brown  BD,  R,  3  GO,  MH   j 

Dianil  Fast  Brown  B,  R  treated  with  Bichrome  and 

Dianil  Japonine  G  Copper  Sulphate. 

Dianil  Black  CR 

Basic  Colours  are  aftertreated  with  Tannic  Acid  and  Tartar  Emetic. 


— =>®c=— 


11.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  STOVING. 

Auramine,  all  brands,  Safranine,  all  brands, 

Vesuvine,  all  brands,  Methylene  Violet,  all  brands, 

Azo  Phosphine  GO,  Methylene  Heliotrope  O, 

Phosphine  O,  New  Ethyl  Blue  BS,  RS, 

Methyl  Violet  4B,  6B,  7B,  8B,  Methylene  Grey,  all  brands, 

Victoria  Blue  B,  Oxydianil  Yellow,  O,  G, 

Methylene  Blue,  all  brands,  Dianil  Yellow,  R,  2  R, 

Thionine  Blue  GO,  Aurophenine  O, 

Methylene  Green  O,  extra  yellow,  Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S, 


—     16 


Cresotinc  Yellow  G, 
Primuline  (  >.  chlorinated, 
1  (ianil  ( trange  (i.  N 
Toluylene  <  >range  R 
Dianil  Brown  3GO,  R,  BD 
Dianil  Fasl   Brown  B 
Dianil  Dark  Blue  R,  3R 
Dianil  Black  CR,  N 
Dianil  Brown  Mil, 
Dianil   Pink   BD, 
Dianil  Fast  Red  PI  I, 


Dianil  Fast   Scarlet   SBS, 
Dianil  Blue  G,  BX,  2G,  B,  K,  2R,  2RS, 
3R,  H6G,  H3G,  HG, 
developed       Dianil  Indigo  O, 
with  Dianil  Green  G, 

Azophor        Dianil  Azurine  G, 
Red,  Dianil  Dark  Green  B, 

Dianil  Black  CR, 
Thiogene  Colours, 
Mordant  Colours, 
1  liphenyl  Black. 


-*3®e— 


12.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  RUBBING  AND  CALANDERING. 

Fast  to  rubbing  and  calandering  are: 

Aniline  Black, 

Diphenyl  Black, 

All  Thiogene  Colours, 

Methylene    I  O, 

Methylene  Blue,  all  brands, 

Thionine  Blue  GO, 

Ethyl  Blue   BF, 

New  Ethyl  Blue  BS,  RS, 

New  Fast  Blue  3R  crystals, 

Fast  Blue  for  Cotton,  all  brands, 

Indamine  Blue  N  extra,   NB  extra,    R, 

Indophene  Blue  B,  G,  RN, 

Janus  Blue  R,  G, 

Janus  Dark  Blue,  R,  B, 

Janus  Green  G,   B, 

Methylene  Green,  all  brands. 

Methylene  Grey. 


The  Dianil  Colours, 
Nitroso  Blue, 
Solid  Green  Bistre, 

t    to  calandering  are: 
The  Alizarine  Colours, 
Indigo  MLB,  MLB/R,  MLB/RR,  MLBT, 
Auramine,  all  brands, 
Methylene  Yellow  H, 
Phosphine,  all  brands, 

hosphine,  all  brands, 
A/(i   Phosphine,  all  brands, 
Chrysoidine,  all  brands, 
Janus  Yellov 
Rosazeine,  all  brands, 
Rosazeine  Scarlet  G,  G  extra, 
Safranine,   all  brands, 
Safranine  Scarlet   1' G, 
Methylene   Violet,   all  brands, 


— =•§«=- 


—     17     — 

13.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  LIGHT. 

The  following  dyestuff  are    distinguished  for  their   great  fastness  to  light: 

Alizarine  Yellow  R,  GG  Paste,   5  G,  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Alizarine  Orange  on  Chrome  and  Alumina  Mordants, 

Alizarine  Brown,  all  brands, 

Alizarine  Red,  all  brands, 

Alizarine  Claret  R, 

Alizarine  Blue,  all  brands  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Alizarine  Green  S  Paste  on  Chrome  Mordant, 

Ceruleine,  all  brands, 

Aniline  Black, 

Diphenyl  Black, 

Indigo  MLB,  MLB/R,  MLB/RR,  MLB,T, 

Dianisidine   Blue, 

Azophor  Blue, 

Melanogene  Blue  B,  treated  with  Metal  salts, 

All  Thiogene  colours, 

Primuline  O,  chlorinated, 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O,  G, 

Aurophenine  O, 

Cresotine  Yellow  G,  treated  with  Copper  Sulphate. 
The  following  dyestuffs  are  a  little  less  fast  to  light: 


GalleTne,  all  brands, 

Paranitraniline  Red, 

Azophor  Red, 

Solid  Green  Bistre, 

Auramine,  all  brands, 

Janus  Yellow  G,  R, 

Phosphine,  all  brands, 

Azo  Phosphine  GO, 

Flavophosphine  2  G  cone,  new, 

Safranine,  all  brands, 

Rosolane  BO, 

Methylene  Violet,  all  brands, 

Methylene  Heliotrope  O, 

Methylene  Blue,  all  brands, 

Thionine  Blue  GO, 

New  Fast  Blue  3R  Crystals, 

Fast  Blue  for  Cotton,  all  brands, 

Indamine  Blue,  all  brands, 

Ethyl  Blue  BF, 

New  Ethyl  Blue  RS,  BS, 

Indophene  Blue  B,  G, 


Methylene  Green,  all  brands, 

Methylene  Grey,  all  brands, 

Dianil  Yellow  3G,  treated  with  Copper 

Sulphate, 
Dianil  Yellow  R,  2R, 
Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S, 
Cresotine  Yellow  G, 
Dianil  Orange  G, 
Toluylene  Orange  R, 
Dianil  Brown  2  G,  G,  MH, 
Dianil  Japonine  G, 
Dianil  Pink  BD, 
Dianil  Crimson  B  and  G, 
Dianil  Fast  Red  PH, 
Dianil  Violet  H, 
Dianil    Indigo  O,    treated   with   Copper 

Sulphate, 
Dianil  Azurine  G,  treated  with  Copper 

Sulphate, 
Dianil  Black  N,  CR,  ES. 


~=j©<=- 


2  ii 


—  18 


14.  COTTON  COLOURS  FAST  TO  VULCANISING. 

•  1  cloths  are  rendered  waterproof  by  a  treatment  with  caoutchouc  either 
cold  or  at  225—280°  F. 

When  treated  cold,  the  cloth  is  impregnated  with  a  solution  of  India-rubber 
in  benzine,  dried  and  passed  through  a  cold  solution  of3°/u  Sulphur  dichloride 
in  carbon  disulphide. 

The  method  of  Vulcanising  at  a  high  temperature  is  more  efficient  than 
the  cold  treatment.  The  cloth  is  impregnated  with  a  rubber  solution,  to  which 
some  sulphur  is  added.  The  pieces  are  dried  and  treated  for  1  h.  under  a  pressure 
of  31/*  atm.,  whereby  the  colours  may  be  more  or  less  impaired. 

The  following  colours  withstand  the  Vulcanizing  process  (the  shades  must 
not  be  aftertreated  with  metal  salts). 


Dianil  Yellow  3G,  R,  2R, 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O,  G, 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S, 

Aurophenine,  all  brands, 

Dianil  Orange  G, 

Dianil  Red  4B,  10  B, 

Dianil  Claret  Red  B,  G, 

Dianil  Blue  G,  B,   R,   2R,    I  R, 

Dianil  Indigo  O, 

Dianil  Dark  Blue  R, 

Dianil  Brown  3GO,  G,  R,  M,  B,  BD,  3R, 

Dianil  Orange  N, 

Toluylene  Orange  R, 

Dianil  Black  CR,  G,  N, 

Aniline   Black, 


a)  hot  Vulcanising: 

Diphenyl  Black, 
Methylene  Yellow  H, 
Auramine,  all  brands, 
Flavophosphine  4G  cone,  new, 

R  cone,  new, 
Rosazeine  Scarlet  G  extra. 
Magenta,  all  brands, 
Victoria  Blue  B,  4  R, 
Safranine  O, 
New  Magenta  O, 
Rosazeine  O, 
Methyl  Violet  (3  B, 
Methylene  Heliotrope  O, 
The  Thiogene  Colours. 


Dianil  Yellow  3G, 
Oxydianil  Yellow  O, 
Cresotine  Yellow  G, 
I  )ianil  1  (irect   Yellow  S, 
Dianil  Yellow  K.  2R, 
Dianil  Orange  G, 
Toluylene  Orange  R, 
Dianil    Brown  3  GO,  R. 
Paranitraniline  Red, 
Dianil  Red  4  B,   10  B, 
Dianil  Claret   Red  G, 


b)  cold  Vulcanising: 

Dianil  Blue  G,  B,  R,  2R,    1  R, 
Dianil  Dark  Blue  R, 
Dianil  Black  CR,  N, 
Rosazeine  Scarlet  G  extra, 
Thiogene  Orange  R, 
Thiogene  Brown  GC,  GRR,  S, 
Thiogene  Catechu  R, 
M,  G,  D,  BD,       Thiogene  Cyanine  O, 
Thiogene  Blue  B, 
Thiogene  Black,  all  brands. 


—     19     — 

15.    ACTION  OF  HYDROSULPHITE  ON  COTTON  COLOURS. 

A  number  of  Coal  Tar  colours  can  be  partially  or  totally  stripped  from 
the  fibre  by  hydrosulphite.  The  hydrosulphite  brands  NF  and  AZ  are  the  most 
suitable  for  this  purpose. 

The  bath  is  prepared  in  wooden  vessels  with  2,5  °/o  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone, 
and  3°o  Acetic  Acid  60  °/o,  and  the  material  entered  lukewarm.  The  temperature 
is  gradually  raised  to  the  boil  and  the  material  worked  at  the  boil  for  l\v  to 
3/4  hour.  The  acetic  acid  can  be  replaced  by  Bisulphite.  Hydrosulphite  AZ 
Hoechst  is  rather  cheaper  than  Hydrosulphite  NF.  In  this  case  the  bath  is 
prepared  with  3  °/o  Hydrosulphite  AZ  (previously  made  into  a  paste  with  water) 
and  1,5  °/o  Formic  acid;  3  °/o  Acetic  Acid  or  Bisulphite  may  be  used  in  place 
of  the  formic  acid. 

1.  Colour  totally  stripped. 

2.  Colour  partially  stripped. 

3.  Colour  withstands  the  treatment. 


Dianil  Yellow  3G  .     .  . 

Dianil  Pure  Yellow  HS  . 

Oxydianil  Yellow  G   .  . 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O   .  . 

Cresotine  Yellow  G    .  . 

Dianil  Yellow  G     .     .  . 

Aurophenine  O  .     .     .  . 

Dianil  Yellow  R     .     .  . 

Dianil  Yellow  2R  .     .  . 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S  . 

Dianil  Orange  G     .     .  . 

Dianil  Orange  N     .     .  . 

Toluylene  Orange  R  .  . 

Dianil  Brown  3  GO     .  . 

Dianil  Brown  5  G   .     .  . 

Dianil  Chrome  Brown  G 

Dianil  Chrome  Brown  R 

Dianil  Brown  2  G   .     .  . 

Dianil  Japonine  G  .     .  . 

Dianil  Brown  3R    .     .  . 

Dianil  Brown  R      .     .  . 

Dianil  Brown  MH  .     .  . 

Dianil  Brown  X      .     .  . 

Dianil  Brown  G      .     .  . 

Dianil  Brown  M      .     .  . 
Dianil  Fast  Brown  R 

Dianil  Fast  Brown  B  .  . 

Dianil  Brown  BR  .     .  . 

Dianil  Brown  BD    .     .  . 


Dianil  Brown  B  .     .     . 

Dianil  Brown  D      .     . 

Dianil  Red  4B    .     .     . 

Brilliant  Dianil  Red  R 

Dianil  Red  R     .    .     . 

Delta  Purpurine  5B    . 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 

Dian 


1  Fast  Scarlet  SBS 

1  Scarlet  G      .  .  . 

1  Scarlet  2R  .  .  . 

1  Pink  BD  .     .  .  . 
1  Fast  Scarlet  4BS 

1  Red  10  B.     .  .  . 

1  Fast  Red  PH  .  . 

1  Crimson  G   .  .  . 

1  Crimson  B   .  .  . 

1  Claret  Red  G  .  . 

1  Claret  Red  B  .  . 

1  Violet  H  .     .  .  . 

1  Blue  H6G    .  .  . 

1  Blue  H3G    .  .  . 

1  Blue  G     .     .  .  . 

1  Blue  B      .     .  .  . 

1  Blue  H2G  .  .  . 

1  Azurine  G    .  .  . 

1  Blue  R     .     .  .  . 

1  Blue  2R  .     .  .  . 

1  Blue  BX  .     .  .  . 

1  Blue  HG  .     .  .  . 

1  Indigo  O  .     .  .  . 


20     - 


Dian 
Dian 
Dian: 
Dian 
Dian 
Dian 
Dian 
Dian 
Dian 
Dian 
Dian 
Dian 

Dian 


Dark  Blue  R 
Dark   Hlue  3R 
Blue  3R  . 
Blue  4R  . 
Green  G  . 
Green  B  . 
Dark  Green 
Black  ES 
Black  G  . 
Black  CR 
Black  R   . 
Black  CB 
Black  PG 
Black  PR 


Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone 

Patent  Dianil  Black  FFC  cone.   .     . 
Patent  Dianil  Black  FFA  extra  cone.  . 
Patent  Dianil  Black  R\V  extra 
Patent  Dianil  Black  EB  cone.      .     .     . 
Patent  Dianil  Black  FB  cone.      .     .     . 

Turkey  Red 3 

litraniline  Red 2 

Azophor  Red      ....  J 

Aniline  Black :; 

Diphenvl  Black 3 

Indigo  MLB 

Indigo  MLB/T 2 


THE  DYEING  OF  COTTON  IN  ITS  UNSPUN  STATE. 


A.  LOOSE  COTTON. 

The  dyeing  of  loose  cotton  was  primarily  taken  up  in  order  to  produce 
multicoloured  fancy  yarns  which  were  composed  either  of  different  fibres  or 
contained  the  same  kind  of  material.  At  first  Merino  Yarns,  containing  wool 
and  cotton  were  thus  successfully  manufactured ;  gradually  however  quite  a 
variety  of  yarns  appeared  on  the  textile  market,  which  contained  differently 
coloured  cotton  only,  or  represented  mixtures  of  coloured  and  undyed  cotton. 
In  all  cases  the  cotton  was  handled  in  the  loose  state  and  as  such  spun  into 
these  various  yarns.  But  this  developed  also  —  as  a  matter  of  course  —  another 
application  of  loose  cotton:  specially  strong  one-coloured  weft  yarns,  which 
required  to  be  dyed  through,  were  manufactured  from  material  which  was  dyed 
in  the  loose  state.  Moreover  this  process  enabled  the  spinner  to  save  time, 
and  diminish  waste,  (during  the  manufacture)  and  thus  actually  meant  more 
economical  working  throughout. 

Loose  cotton  was  originally  dyed  exclusively  in  copper  vessels  which  were 
heated  direct  by  fire;  these  » furnaces «  were  soon  replaced  by  cisterns,  heated 
by  steam  pipes ,  and  now  the  dyeing  operations  are  often  carried  out  in 
mechanical  dyeing  machines. 

All  cotton  colours  are  suitable  for  this  branch  of  dyeing  (loose  cotton 
dyeing)  with  the  exception  of  alizarines  which  render  the  fibre  unsuitable 
for  spinning. 

Indigo  is  seldom  dyed  on  loose  cotton,  only  for  special  requirements  (as 
to  perfect  penetration)  the  Hydrosulphite  vat  is  employed  in  mechanical  machines. 

Basic  colours  are  dyed  in  cisterns ;  they  are  not  suitable  for  machine 
dyeing.  The  cotton  is  generally  entered  into  the  boiling  tannin  or  sumach 
bath  in  the  evening,  the  bath  kept  at  the  boil  until  the  cotton  is  well  wetted; 
the  steam  is  then  turned  off  and  the  goods  allowed  to  steep  until  the  morning. 
The  cotton  is  then  lifted,  hydroextracted,  and  worked  in  a  cold  tartar  emetic 
bath  for  about  ^2  hour.  The  cotton  is  hydroextracted  without  washing,  entered 
into  the  cold  dye  bath,  and  worked  with  poles;  the  temperature  is  gradually 
raised  to  120 — 140°  F.,  or  eventually  to  the  boil  if  the  colour  does  not  equalize 
well;  it  is  finally  hydroextracted  and  dried. 


The  direct  Dianil  Colours  can  be  dyed  in  open  vessels  or  on  mechanical 
machines. 

The  dry  cotton  is  entered  into  the  boiling  dyebath  which  is  pre] tared 
with  the  necessary  ingredients;  worked  until  the  shade  is  level,  and  then  left 
at  the  boil  for  about  one  hour. 

In  this  manner,  lots  up  to  300  lbs  can  be  worked  at  a  time.  Small  addi- 
tions of  Turkey  Red  Oil  to  the  dyebath  effect  the  wetting  of  the  material 
rapidly  and  thoroughly.  For  light  shades  and  when  employing  dyestuffs  which 
do  not  equalize  easily  it  is  advisable  to  add  the  salt  to  the  bath  alter  working 
the  cotton  for  some  time. 

The  proportion  of  dyeliquid  in  the  open  vessel  is  generally  1:15  (to  weight 
of  material)  whilst  in  mechanical  machines  more  concentrated  liquids  are  required 
(1:6  to  1 :  10)  according  to  the  construction  of  the  machine.  The  additions  of 
salt  and  soda  vary  according  to  the  concentration  of  the  bath  i.  e.  when  dyeing 
in  concentrated  baths  less  salt  and  soda  is  required. 

The  bath  is  prepared  for 

1.  light  Dianil  shades  with  about       1  oz.  Solvay  Soda  per  6  gallons  liquid. 

~.     .,     ,     ,  I       llk — 2  oz.  Solvay  Soda  and 

2.  medium  Dianil  shades  about     I  '         .,,  ,      ' 

|     lo  oz.  (jlauber  s  Salt  cryst., 

v>    t-,    i    tv      i     u    i        u  I      3  oz-  Solvay  Soda,  and 

3.  Dark  Dianil  shades  about  „_  ^,     ,      ,     0  . 

I    do  oz.  Glauber  s  Salt,  cryst. 

An  addition  of  1  oz.  Turkey  Red  Oil  per  6  gallons  liquid  for  light  shades 

favours  the  equalizing. 

For    each    individual    dyestuff  the    proportions,    especially    those    of   soda, 

may  vary;  further  particulars  may  be  found  on  page  13-1   (Vol.    1). 

Only  very   soluble   and    level  dyeing   colours  and  clear  soft  (or  corrected) 

waters  are  suitable    for  mechanical    machines ;    the  dyebath  has  to    be  boiled  up 

with  soda  before  use. 

The  following  dyestuffs  are  suitable  for  mechanical  machines : 

Dianil  Yellow  2R,  3G,  Dianil  Pink  BD, 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S,  Dianil  Scarlet  G,   2R, 

Oxy  Dianil  Yellow  O,  Dianil  Brown  3GO,  R,   BD,  Mil, 

Cresotine  Yellow  G,  Dianil  Japonine  G, 

Aurophenine  O,  Dianil  Fast  Brown  B  &  R, 

Primuline  O,  Dianil  Green  G, 

Dianil  Orange  G,  N,  Dianil  Dark  Green  B, 

Toluylene  Orange  R,  Dianil  Blue,  all  brands, 

Dianil  Claret   Red  li,  G,  Dianil  Azurine  G, 

Dianil  Violet  H,  Dianil  Dark  Blue  3R, 

1  lianil  Crimson  B  &  G,  Dianil  Indigo  O, 

Dianil   Red  R,    IP,  6B,   10B,  Dianil  Black  G,  R,  CB,  CR, 

Brilliant    Dianil  Red  R,  R  cone,        Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone, 

Delta  I'm  purine  5B,  EB  cone,  EF  cone,  FB. 

Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  4BS,  8BS, 


—     23     — 

The  most  simple  of  all  mechanical  appliances  are  the  so-called  packing 
machines. 

The  cotton  is  firmly  pressed  and  packed  into  a  moveable  cage  which  fits 
into  a  cistern  containing  the  dyeliquid.  The  liquid  is  caused  to  circulate  through 
the  goods  by  mechanical  appliances,  injectors,  elevators  or  pumps.  The  circul- 
ation is  entertained  for  1  hour  for  dark  shades,  and  comparatively  less  time  for 
light  shades. 

One  of  the  first  constructions  of  this  kind  is  illustrated  by  fig.  1,  this 
apparatus  can  also  be  used  for  hank  dyeing. 

Glauber's  salt  is  added  in  several  portions  during  the  course  of  dyeing 
and  improves  equalizing.  Crystallized  Glauber's  salt  is  preferable  to  the  calcined 
product  on  account  of  its  solubility. 

After  dyeing,  the  cotton  is  hydroextracted.  Sometimes  it  is  previously 
washed. 

If  necessary  it  is  aftertreated  with  metal  salts  in  the  same  machine.  The 
washed  cotton  is  treated  for  20—30  min.  at  160—180°  F.  with  the  metal  salt 
solution,  and  is  then  washed,  hydroextracted  and  dried. 


Fig.  1. 


Developing  with  Azophor  Red  is  carried  out  in  a  similar  manner  at  the 
ordinary  temperature. 

Also  the  diazotizing  and  developing  processes  are  generally  carried  out 
in  the  dyeing  machine  after  dyeing,  the  material  is  rinsed  until  perfectly  cold. 
Then  the  acid  nitrite  liquid  is  circulated,  the  goods  rinsed  again,  and  finally 
developed. 


—     24     — 

When  using  open  vessels,  the  cotton  is  taken  out  after  dyeing,  thoroughly 
cooled  and  then  diazotized  and  developed  in  special  wooden  cisterns.  The 
intermediate  rinsing  between  the  two  operations  may  be  omitted. 

A  rinsing  machine  is  sometimes  employed  for  carrying  out  these  operations. 
Primuline   Red  is  frequently  developed  in  this  manner. 


Shades  produced  on  loose  cotton  with  1  >ianil  colours  are  frequently  topped 
with  Basic  colours,  to  enhance  the  beauty  and  brilliancy.  Up  to  '/s  °/o  may  be 
a] >i 'lied  in  the  washing  machine,  if  more  dyestuff  is  required,  the  material  is 
treated  in  a  separate  cistern  with  the  addition  of  acetic  acid ;  previous  to 
topping  the  goods  are  rinsed. 

(  Occasionally  direct  blacks  are  topped  with  Aniline  Black  in  order  to  deepen 
the  shade  and  to  increase  the  fastness  to  washing.  For  particulars  see  page  201 
(Vol.   I 


Loose  cotton  is  dyed  with  Thiogene  Colours  in  open  vessels  or  in 
mechanical  machines;  all  appliances  must  be  constructed  of  iron. 

Practical  experience  has   shown,    that    shades  dyed   in  the  cistern  turn  out 

what  fuller  than  those  produced  in  mechanical   machines. 

The  dyestuffs  are  dissolved  in  wooden  vessels  with   the  necessary  amount 

hum  sulphide  and  soda  and  the  solution  poured  into  the  dyebath,  which 
is  previously  boiled  up  with  some  soda;  then  salt  is  added.  The  dry  material 
is  entered  into  the  boiling  dye  liquid,  and  the  cotton  well  worked  with  poles 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  it  is  left  for  s/*  hour  in  the  simmering  bath, 
after  this,  it  is  lifted  out  onto  trays  and  the  superfluos  liquid  allowed  to  run 
back  into  the  vessel;  finally  the  cotton  is  hydroextracted  in  an  iron  or  lead- 
covered  hydroextractor  and  rinsed. 

dyeing  methods  in  mechanical  machines  follow  closely  those  employed 
for  Dianil  Colours.  The  necessary  additions  of  salts  for  the  Thiogene  baths  of 
various  concentration  are  given  on  page   147  and   156  in  Vol,   1. 

Especially  the  black  Thiogene  Colours  have  found  ample  application  for 
loose  material  as  their  manipulation  is  extremely  simple:  f.  e.  Logwood  Black 
has  been  largelj  replaced  by  Thiogene  Black  and  cannot  any  longer  compete 
successfully  with  the  latter.  The  fastness  properties  of  Thiogene  Black  are  in 
some  respects  equal  to  and    in  others    excel    those    of  Aniline  Oxidation  Black. 

The  liquid  brands  of  the  Thiogene  Blacks  present  undoubtedly  the  most 
handy  form  of  application. 

Shades  produced  with  Thiogene  Colours  on  loose  cotton  are  generally  softened 
after  dyeing.  The  softening  operation  deepens  the  shades  considerably  and  at 
the  same  time  makes  the  fibre  more  pliable  for  spinning.    It  is  therefore  almost 


—     25     — 

always  applied  to  Blacks.  A  fat  or  oil-emulsion  is  prepared  by  boiling  1 — 2% 
of  soft  soap  and  the  same  amount  of  vegetable  oil  with  water,  and  heating  the 
cotton  in  this  emulsion  at  50°. 

Finally  the  cotton  is  hydroextracted. 

On  account  of  their  great  brilliancy,  the  Resorcine  and  Azo  Colours,  the 
Eosines,  Erythrosines,  Phloxines,  Brilliant  Oranges  etc.  are  either  dyed  in  self 
shades  on  loose  cotton  or  are  employed  for  topping  red  and  pink  shades  which 
were  dyed  with  colours  of  another  group. 

The  Direct  effects  are  generally  produced  on  bleached  material  (page  205 
Vol.   1). 

The  dyeing  of  Aniline  Black  and  the  production  of  Insoluble  Azo  Colours 
on  loose  cotton  has  been  treated  in  the  second  part  of  this  work.  See  Vol.  1 
pag.  208  resp.  228. 


2a  u 


&,    H.    Hi —    LijRARY 
North  Carolina  state  College 


26 


B.  DYEING  OF  CARDED  COTTON. 

Loose  cotton  always  contains  a  considerable  amount  of  impurities  which 
in  dyeing  take  up  dyestuff.  It  is  clear,  therefore,  that  more  colour  will  be  used 
in  dyeing  loose  cotton  in  the  raw  state  than  in  dyeing  cleaned  and  carded 
material. 

The   impurities  vary  in   different  kinds    of    cotton  and    amount    to  8 
an  average. 

To  dye  cotton  in  a  carded  condition  enables  the  spinner  to  use  his  carding 
machines  for  undyed  material  only,  the  cards,  therefore,  remain  free  from  dyed 
bits  and  need  not  be  cleaned  so  often.  All  this  means  saving  of  time  and 
labour  and  naturally  increases  the  production. 

Carded  cotton  is  dyed  in  mechanical,  principally  in  packing  machines. 
Recently,  however,  several  new  systems  have  been  tried  for  dyeing  carded  material 
in  a  similar  manner  to  cops  and  cheeses  (these  will  be  treated  later  on). 

The  method  of  dyeing  closely  follows  that  described  above  for  loose  cotton ; 
it  differs,  however,  in  the  manner  of  packing,  owing  to  the  fluffy  state  of  the 
material.  More  care  must  be  exercised  than  is  necessary  for  cotton  in  a  raw 
tate.  The  carded  material  is  made  into  bundles  and  these  bundles  are  wrapped 
up  singly  in  thin  cloths  and  pressed  into  the  cage ;  dyeing,  rinsing  etc.  is  carried 
out  in  the  same  manner  as  when  working  with  raw  cotton,  and  the  directions 
for  the  use  of  the  dyestuffs  are  likewise  the  same. 


--=*§*=>- 


—     27 


C.  DYEING  OF  COTTON  ROVINGS. 

The  manipulation  of  cotton  as  cotton  rovings  has  still  greater  advantages. 
In  this  state  it  has  already  passed  through  a  series  of  spinning  operations  and 
may  be  considered  as  loosely  twisted  thread.  Rovings  are  dyed  on  crests  in 
specially  constructed  mechanical  machines.  The  directions  set  forth  for  loose 
cotton  and  carded  material  are  also  available  for  the  dyeing  of  rovings. 


a@»- 


When  dyeing  loose  material  it  is  not  absolutely  necessary  for  all  lots  to 
match  each  other  exactly,  as  in  the  course  of  its  manufacture  the  cotton  is 
thoroughly  mixed  so  that  small  unevennesses  etc.  are  equalized. 

Carded  material  must  be  worked  more  accurately  than  loose  cotton ; 
although  it  is  possible  to  equalize  small  differences  of  shade,  still  more  care 
has  to  be  displayed  on  the  part  of  the  workman  to  arrive  at  a  satisfactory  result. 

Cotton  rovings  must  be  dyed  exactly  to  shade;  the  threads  run  already 
parallel  to  each  other  and  are  not  further  intermixed  in  the  course  of  the  sub- 
sequent manipulations.  Therefore  uneven  results  would  be  obtained  if  the 
individual  lots  differ  in  shade.  For  this  reason  the  dyeing  of  cotton  rovings  has 
not  been  developed  to  any  considerable  extent. 

The  patterns  on  page  29  illustrate  yarns  dyed  as  loose  cotton;  those  on 
page  33  illustrate  materials  produced  from  cotton  which  was  dyed  in  the  loose  state. 


—     28     — 
YARNS  SPUN  OF  DYED  LOOSE  COTTON. 


29 


Directions  for  patterns  on  page  28. 
1.  2. 

Melange  Yarn 
Melange  Yarn.  Light  Brown. 

Light  Grey.  80°/o  white  cotton 

95  °/o  white  cotton  5  °/o  brown  cotton,  dyed  jh  ith 

5°/o  black  cotton,  dyed  with 

7,5  °/o  Thiogene  Black  BRR  cone. 
(Old  bath.) 


3- 


Melange  Yarn. 

Light  Grey. 
90%  white  cotton 
3  °/o  blue  cotton,  dyed  with 

4°/o   Dianil  Blue  ET 
7  °/o  black  cotton,  dyed  with 

7,5  °/o  Thiogene  Black  BRR  cone. 
(Old  bath.) 


2%  Dianil  Brown  2G 
l°/o  Dianil  Brown  BD 
15  °/o  brown  cotton,  dyed  with 
1,5  °/o   Dianil  Brown  X 
0,1  °/o  Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone.  pat. 


4. 
Melange  Yarn. 

Drab. 

80°/o  white  cotton 
10  °/o  brown  cotton,  dyed  with 
2°/o   Dianil  Brown  MH 
5  °/o  brown  cotton,   dyed  with 

2%   Dianil  Fast  Brown  R 
5  °/o  brown  cotton,  dyed  with 
2°/o  Dianil  Brown  2G 
1  °/0   Dianil  Brown   BD. 


5. 
Melange  Yarn. 
Light  Blue. 
85°/o  white  cotton 
2  °/o  blue  cotton,  dyed  with 

0,8  °/o  Marine  Blue  BI  (Tannin- Antimony) 
13°/o  blue  cotton,  dyed  with 
2°/0  Dianil  Blue  2  G. 


Melange  Yarn. 

Brown. 

60°/o  white  cotton 

10  °/o  brown  cotton,   dyed  with 

2°/0   Dianil  Brown  5G 
30°/o  brown  cotton,  dyed  with 

2  °/o   Dianil  Japonine  G. 


Melange  Yarn. 

Green. 
50°/o  white  cotton 
50  °/o  green  cotton,  dyed  with 

6°/o  Thiogene  Green  GL  extra. 
(Old  bath.) 


Melange  Yarn. 

Green. 
65°/o  white  cotton 
30°/o  green  cotton,  dyed  with 
2°/o  Dianil  Green  B 
5%  black  cotton,  dyed  with 

7,5  °/o  Thiogene  Black  BRR  cone. 
(Old  bath.) 


11. 
Nap  Yarn. 


Melange  Yarn. 

Brown. 
40°/o  white  cotton 
20°/o  brown  cotton,  dyed  with 

3°/o  Dianil  Brown  3  GO 

0,5  °/o  Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone.  pat. 
15  °/o  brown  cotton,  dyed  with 

2,5  °/o   Dianil   Brown  3  GO 
25°/o  brown  cotton,   dyed  with 

2  °/o   Dianil  Japonine  G. 

10. 

Melange  yarn. 

Dark  Grey. 
50°/o  white  cotton 
50  °/o  black  cotton,   dyed   with 

7,5  "fo  Thiogene  Black  BRR  cone. 
(Old  bath.) 


Green  :    3,5  %  Dianil  Green  B. 
Brown:   1,5  °/o   Dianil  Brown  5  G. 


12. 
Nap  yarn. 

Claret:     3°/o  Dianil  Claret  Red  G 
Brown:  3,5  °/o  Dianil  Brown  3  GO. 


30 


Directions  for  patterns  on  page  28. 


13. 
Nap  Yarn. 

Blue  Ground : 

1,5 °/o  Dianil   Dark  Blue  R 
1,5  ".,  Dianil  Bine  I'.X 

Nap-  : 

I  topped  with 
Malachite 
:   and 
Auramine  O. 
Blue  Nap^ : 

1  °/0  Victoria  Blue  B  on  Tannin  mordant. 


1-1. 


Jaspe  Yarn. 

Fleshcolour  White. 
Dyed  on  bleached  material  in  mechanical  machine 
1,2  '  j    rhiogi  iic   I  'range  RR. 
(I  Bath.) 


15. 

Jaspe  Yarn. 

Blue/ White. 
Dyed  on  raw  material   in  mechanical  machine 
I  biogene  Cyanine  O. 
I   Bath  )     Steamed. 


17. 

Jaspe  Yarn. 

Black/White. 
Dyed  on   raw  material   in  mechanical  machine 
8°/o  Thiogene   Black  MM  cone. 
(I  lid    Bath.) 


19. 

Jaspe  Yarn. 

Brown  White, 

Dyed  on  raw  material  in  mechanical  machine 

Ihiogene  Brown  tIC 

Thiogene  Brown   S 

(I   Bath.) 


21. 

Solid  Pink. 

Dyed  on  bleached  loose  cotton  in  an  open  vessel 


2°/o 


Phloxine  OOOO 
Alum. 


16. 

Jasp6  Yarn. 

Yellow -brown  White. 
Dyed  on  bleached  material  in  mechanical  machine 
I  biogene  Orange  RG 
(I    Bath.) 

18. 

Jaspe  Yarn. 

Pink/White. 

I  ileached  material  in  mechanical  machine 

1,25  °/o  Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  8BS. 

(I  Bath.) 


20. 
Jaspe  Yarn. 
Black  Yellow. 

Black  dyed  on    raw   material   same   as  No.   17 
Yellow   on    bleached    material  in    mechanical 
machine 

o  Thiogene  Golden  Yellow  AO. 


22. 
Solid  Red. 

ii   loose  material  in  an  open  Vessel 
2  "  o    Dianil   Red  4  B. 


23. 
Fancy  Yarn. 

Dved  on  raw  loose  cotton  in  mechanical  machine 
2,25  %  Dianil  Green  G 
1,2    ",i   Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone.  pat. 
0,4    ',  Aurophenine  O. 


25. 
Fancy  Yarn. 

Dyed    on  raw    loose    material    in    mechanical 
machine 

3    °;'o  Dianil  Indigo  O 

1     '       Patent   Dianil  Black  FF  cone.  pat. 

0,4  °/o  Dianil  Red    I  B, 


24. 
Fancy  Yarn. 

Dyed  on    raw    loose    material    in  mechanical 
machine 

3,75  °/o  Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone.  pat. 
0,4    °/o  Dianil  Red  4  B. 


26. 
Fancy  Yarn. 

Dyed  on  raw    loose    material    in   mechanical 
machine 

0,96  °/o  Dianil  Brown  3  GO 

0,84  °/0  Dianil  Red  4B 

0,29  °/o  Aurophenine  O 

1,4    ",o  Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone.  pat. 


31 


Directions  for  patterns  on  page  32. 


Flannelette. 


Flannelette. 
Red:  2,5  °/0  Delta  Purpurine  5B. 


Brown : 
Green  I 

Green  II 

Green  III 

Green  IV 


3 

0,4 

0,15 » 

0,8 

o.l 

1.0 

0,6 

3,2 

1,2 


o   Dianil    Fast  Brown   R 
o   Dianil   Dark  Green  B 

Aurophenine  O 

Dianil  Dark  Green  B 
o   Aurophenine  O 

Dianil  Dark  Green   B 
o  Aurophenine  O 
o   Dianil  Dark  Green   B 

Aurophenine  O 


Flannelette. 

R    ,     (  1,5  °/o  Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  8BS 

\  0,5  °/o  Toluylene  Orange  R 
Blue:     2     °/0  Dianil  Dark  Blue  3R. 


Flannelette. 

Black:  3°/o  Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone.  pat. 
Brown :  2  °/o  Dianil  Brown  B 
Blue:     2°/o  Dianil  Dark  Blue  3  R. 


Flannelette. 

Red:  2,5  °/o  Dianil  Red  4B 
Brown  :    1,5  °/o  Dianil  Fast  Brown  R 
0.5  °/n  Dianil  Brown  3 GO 
0,5  °/o  Dianil  Black  CB. 


Sky"  Blue : 


Flannelette. 

1        °/o  Dianil  Blue  G 

0,25  °/0  Dianil  Blue  2R 

:  2       °/o  Dianil  Blue  2R. 


Waistcoat  Material. 

Knitted  with  yarn  No.  23  page  30. 


Waistcoat  Material. 

Knitted  with  yarn  No.  24,  page  30. 


10. 


Waistcoat  Material. 

Knitted  with  yarn  No.  25,  page  30. 


Waistcoat  Material. 

Knitted  with  yam  No.  26,  page  30. 


—    32     — 

COTTON  CLOTHS  MANUFACTURED  FROM  YARN  DYED 
AS  LOOSE  MATERIAL. 


II.  THE  DYEING  OF  COTTON  YARN. 


A.  HANK  DYEING. 

1.  In  open  vessels. 

Cotton  yarns  are  dyed  as  raw  yarn,  half-bleached,  or  bleached,  raw  mer- 
cerized, or  mercerized  and  bleached. 

The  bleaching  and  mercerizing  of  cotton  yarn  will  be  treated    in   part  IV. 

The  most  simple  and  most  generally  employed  method  of  dyeing  cotton 
and  linen  yarn  is  the  dyeing  in  open  vessels. 

The  yarn  is  put  on  sticks,  about  2  lbs.  at  a  time,  and  turned  by  hand 
or  with  a  stick.  The  barge  is  generally  made  of  wood,  preferably  of  pitchpine, 
and  for  lots  of  about  100  lbs.  of  yarn  a  barge  of  10  feet  length,  2  feet  width, 
and  2  feet  depth  will  be  sufficient.  A  perforated  wooden  false  bottom  is  fixed 
just  above  the  steam  pipes,  in  order  to  keep  the  liquid  at  a  uniform  tempera- 
ture throughout. 

The  dyeing  in  open  vessels  necessitates  a  certain  amount  of  skill  on  the 
part  of  the  workmen.  Efforts  have  been  made  to  find  mechanical  means  by 
which  to  carry  on  the  dyeing  operation,  and  quite  a  number  of  mechanical 
appliances  are  now  in   use. 

Our  sketch,  fig.  2,  illustrates  a  machine  which  consists  of  a  barge  with 
grooved  sides,  in  which  the  sticks  carrying  the  yarn  rest ;  a  waggon  running  on 
iron  rails  is  fixed  above  the  barge.  This  waggon  contains  the  appliance  for 
turning  the  sticks. 

The  machine  imitates  the  operation  which  is  ordinarily  done  by  hand,  and 
turns  the  sticks  in  regular  intervals. 

The  hanks,  about  4  lbs.  per  stick,  are  not  only  turned  by  the  machine, 
but  are  also  stretched. 

The  yarn  is  turned  whilst  the  waggon  is  running  in  one  direction,  on 
returning  to  its  starting  place,  however,  the  turning  mechanism  is  not  in  action, 
so  that  the  sticks  are  merely  replaced  into  the  grooves  they  occupied  previous 
to  the  turning.  The  movement  of  the  waggon  and  the  play  of  the  mechanism 
goes  on  automatically. 


—     34     — 


r  l. 


_ 


Fig.  2. 

Quite  recently  trials  have  been  made  to  improve  the  method  of  yam-dyeing 
by  connecting  the  separate  skeins  by  means  of  special  hooks  and  sticks  to  a 
long  broad  rope,  and  dyeing  them  in  a  similar  manner  and  in  similar  machines 
as  pieces. 

This  method  (system  E.  Thoen)  is  carried  out  by  the  firm  of  L.   Destree, 
A.  Wiescher  &  Co.,  Haren,  Belgium,  and  is  illustrated  in  fig.  3. 


Fig.  3. 

Cotton    yarn    which    is    to    be    dyed    with    basic   colours,  is  mordanted  in 
special  barges.     The  boiled  and  (for  light  shades)  bleached  yarn  is  entered  into 


—     35     — 

the  hot  tannin  bath  —  generally  in  the  evening  — ,  worked  for  a  short  time, 
immersed  under  the  surface  of  the  liquid,  and  left  therein  overnight.  After 
wringing  or  hydroextracting,  the  yarn  is  entered  into  the  fixing  bath,  and  worked 
at  the  ordinary  temperature  for  about  v,a  hour.  Subsequent  rinsing  ensures 
level  dyeing,  but  in  practice  this  operation  is  frequently  omitted  in  order  to 
reduce  the  cost. 

The  mordanted  material  is  wrung  or  hydroextracted  and  entered  into  the 
cold  dye  bath  containing  the  dyestuff  solution  and  some  acetic  acid  or  alum. 
The  bath  is  slowly  heated  to  120°  F.,  and  the  material  dyed  to  pattern.  For 
light  shades  the  yarn  is  sufficiently  mordanted  in  1 — 2  hours,  and  dyed  cold. 
Finally  the  cotton  is  rinsed  and  dried. 

The  amount  of  tannin  in  the  mordant  must  necessarily  be  in  proportion 
to  the  percentage  of  dyestuff;  if  the  cotton  is  mordanted  too  strongly,  the  dyed 
results  are  apt  to  be  uneven,  and  when  insufficiently  mordanted,  the  yarn  does 
not  exhaust  the  dye  bath,  and  thus  a  certain  amount  of  colour  is  wasted. 

Very  dark  shades  of  basic  colours  are  dyed  on  a  tannin-iron  mordant ;  the 
yarns  are  treated  as  described  above.  The  most  suitable  iron  salts  for  this 
process  are  iron  sulphate,  pyrolignite  of  iron,  and  iron  nitrate. 

Whenever  special  brilliancy  of  the  shade  is  not  required,  tannic  acid  can 
be  replaced  by  the  less  expensive  sumach  leaves  and  extracts,  whilst  gall-nuts, 
myrabolanes  etc.  are  only  seldom  used.  The  comparative  value  of  these  drugs 
as  mordants  will  be  found  in  part  IV. 


-«0©E=~ 


Basic  colours  have  been  replaced  in  yarn  dyeing  to  a  large  extent  by  the 
direct  colours,  owing  to  the  cheap  and  simple  method  of  their  application. 

Dianil  colours  are  dyed  in  wooden  barges  of  varying  sizes;  generally  the 
yarns  are  worked  in  about  the  20-fold  amount  of  liquid. 

The  bath  containing  soda  or  soap  is  brought  to  the  boil,  and  any  scum 
floating  on  the  surface  is  removed ;  the  dyestuff  solution  is  then  poured  through 
a  sieve  into  the  bath,  and  finally  common  or  Glauber's  salt  is  added.  The 
boiled  and  hydroextracted  yarn  is  entered,  and  the  bath  brought  to  the  boil  at 
intervals  according  to  the  required  depth  of  shade.  For  medium  or  dark  shades, 
the  yarn  is  dyed  for  about  one  hour,  and  then  turned  every  10—15  minutes;  for 
light  shades,  the  temperature  of  the  liquid  is  advantageously  kept  at  80—120°  F., 
and  the  necessary  amount  of  salt  is  added  after  working  for  some  time.  These 
precautions  ensure  level  results. 

After  dyeing,  the  cotton  is  washed,  hydroextracted,  and  dried;  light  shades 

may  be  hydroextracted  without  washing. 

Yarns  dyed  with  Dianil  colours  are  aftertreated  with  metal  salts,  or 
developed    with   Azophor  Red,    or    diazotised    and    developed    according    to    the 


—     36     — 

directions  given  in  part  II,  page  136 — 141,  and  in  a  similar  manner,  as  described 
for  the  afti'i treatment  of  loose  cotton  dyed  with  Dianil  colours  (page  23).  The 
goods  are  aftertreated  in  the  dye  vessel. 


In  order  to  enhance  their  brilliancy,  both  direct  and  aftertreated  shades 
are  frequently  topped  with  basic  colours;  the  direct  colours  act  in  this  case  as 
a  mordant  for  the  basic  dyestuffs. 

The  yarn  is  generally  topped  in  a  fresh  bath,  prepared  with  the  necessary 
dyestuff  and  3 — 5°/o  acetic  acid  or  1— 3°/0  alum  (of  the  weight  of  the  yarn).  The 
yarn  is  worked  for  some  time  in  the  cold  bath  containing  only  the  acetic  acid 
or  the  alum,  before  the  dyestuff  is  added. 

Direct  Blacks  are  often  used  in  combination  with  Aniline  Black,  as  was 
briefly  described  in  the  dyeing  of  loose  cotton. 

The  bottomed  yarn  is  topped  in  a  bath  containing  for  every  100  lbs.  of 
material : 

3 — 5  lbs.  Aniline  Salt, 

3—4  lbs.  Sulphuric  Acid  16S°  Tw, 

2—3  lbs.  Muriatic  Acid  32"  Tw., 

l'/s   lbs.  Copper  Sulphate, 
4 — 5  lbs.  Bichrome. 
The  yarn  is  entered  and  worked  cold  for    l/a   hour;    the    bichrome  is  then 
added  in  several  portions.    The  temperature  is  raised  to  120°  F.  within   l/s  hour, 
and  the  yarn  worked  for  another    '/a   hour,    washed   and   eventually  soaped   in  a 
hot  soap  bath,  to  which  1   lb.  Logwood  extract  may  be  added. 

The  following  dyestuffs  yield  a  suitable  bottom  for  this  process: 
Dianil  Black  CR,  R,  CB,  G,  X. 
Dianil  Jet  Black,  all  brands, 
Patent  Dianil  Black,  all  brands. 


-=*@«=~ 


On  account  of  their  extreme  fastness  and  their  very  simple  application, 
the  Thiogene  colours  arc  largely  employed  in  yarn  dyeing. 

When  dyeing  in  an  open  cistern,  the  raw  or  boiled  yarn  is  put  into  the 
boiling  dyebath  on  sticks  and  turned  quickly  for  5  minutes.  After  turning  off 
the  steam,  the  yarn  is  worked  in  intervals  of  from  8  to  10  minutes,  until  the 
dyeing  operation  is  finished;  dark  shades  require   1   hour. 

To  use  ~l  r~  shaped  sticks,  i  e.  to  work  under  the  liquid,  is  only 
advisable  for  Thiogene  Blue  B,  R  &  RR;  all  other  colours  arc  dyed  in  the  usual 
manner  above  the  surface  of  the  liquid.  The  arrangement  for  dyeing  under  the 
surface  of  the  liquid  is  skewn  in  fig,  .Y 


—     37     — 

The  dyeing  cisterns  contain  iron  pipes  running  along  the  bottom  of  the 
four  sides,  and  are  heated  with  indirect  steam. 

After  dyeing,  the  yarns  are  squeezed  and  then  rinsed  immediately;  the 
squeezer  consists  of  2  iron  squeezing  rollers  as  illustrated  in  the  following 
drawing,   fig.   4. 


Fig.  5. 


The  top  roller  is  connected  with  a  lever  which  lifts  it  from  the  lower 
roller  and  allows  the  yarn  to  be  inserted. 

As  a  rule  three  rinsing  baths  are  given ;  the  first  one  naturally  contains 
the  greatest  amount  of  dyestuff,  and  its  liquid  is,  therefore,  used  for  replenishing 
the  dyebath. 

The  brigthness  and  fastness  of  Thiogene  Blue  B,  BTL,  etc.  is  enhanced  by 
developing  with  steam  and  air. 

In  a  very  simple  manner  an  ordinary  barge  can  be  converted  into  a  proper 
steaming  installation. 


■  J7?n,,    J- ^  — B 


Fig.  6. 

The  steaming  barge  contains  two  steam  inlets  a)  indirect  steam  pipe  for 
heating  up  the  interior  before  the  dyed  and  evenly  wrung  yarns  are  packed 
into  it;  b)  direct  steam  pipe  with  air  injector;  the  steam  inlet  of  the  latter  pipe 
is  covered  with  a  protecting  board. 

Both  pipes  are  fixed  below  the  perforated  bottom  of  the  barge.  The 
yarns  are  packed  on  a  scray  some    inches  above   the  perforated   bottom.      The 


—     38     — 

barge  is  covered  with  a  lid,  and  this,  again,  is  covered  with  thick  jute-canvas 
during  the  steaming  operation.  The  yams  are  packed  in  three  layers  (smaller 
lots  of  less  than  100  lbs.  are  arranged  in  two  layers,  leaving  eventually  part  of 
the  scray  free).     The  yarns  are  slightly  twisted  before  being  placed  into  the 

A  powerful  supply  of  steam  developes  the  blue  within  l/<  hour;  then  tin- 
steam  is  tinned  (iff,  the  yarns  left  in  the  box  for  another  '/a  hour,  and  finally 
taken  out  and  rinsed. 

Cotton  in  all  stages  of  its  manufacture  may  be  submitted  to  the  action 
of  steam  and  air.  Loose  cotton,  cops,  cheeses,  etc.  are  generally  developed  in 
the  mechanical  dyeing  machines. 

Alter  steaming,  small  amounts  of  hydrogen  are  sometimes  added  to  their 
rinsing  water,   the  shade  of  the  blue  is  thus  still  more  brightened. 


Some  Thiogene  colours,  especially  Thiogene  Blue  B,  can  be  developed  by 
hanging.  The  yarn  is  wrung,  then  spread  evenly  over  sticks  and  hung  up  at 
the  ordinary  temperature  for  1 — 2  hours;  after  this,  it  is  well  washed.  Another 
method  is,  to  squeeze  the  yarn  and  take  it  at  once  into  a  lukewarm  rinsing 
bath  containing  soda  (1:20001,  where  it  is  worked  for  some  time  and  then 
immersed.     Finally  the  yarn  is  lifted,  hung  for    I   hour  and  then  rinsed. 

Frequently  the  colour  is  developed  by  allowing  the  moist  and  warm  yarn 
to  lie  in  a  heap.  This  method  is  especially  employed  for  warps  and  loose  cotton. 


Resorcine  and  Azo  colours  are  dyed  on  cotton  yarn  according  to  methods 
previously  described. 

The  dyeing  of  Indigo,  Alizarine,  Aniline  Black,  and  Diphenyl  Black,  also 
the  production  of  Insoluble  Azo  colours  on  the  fibre  has  been  treated  in  part  II. 


2.  Hank  dyeing  in  mechanical  machines. 

Only  the  so-called  packing  machines,  as  described  on  page  23,  are  used 
for  dyeing  cotton   yarn   in   hanks. 

The  yarn  is  packed  into  the  dye  vessel  in  1  lb  lots,  or  slung  together 
to  chains  of  20  lbs.,  and  pressed  down  firmly  by  a  srewable  lid. 

Most  machines  of  this  kind  hold  100,  200,  or  300  lbs.  of  material;  machines 
of  greater  capacity  are  seldom   used. 

Dark  shades  are  dyed  on  raw  yarn,  for  light  and  medium  shades,  however, 
the  material  is  first  boiled  in  the  machine.  After  dyeing,  the  liquid  is  drawn 
off  into  another  vessel,  and  the  material  rinsed,  and  eventually  soaped,  or  after- 
treated  in  the  apparatus. 


—     39     — 

The  Dianil  and  Thiogene  colours  arc  especially  suitable  for  dyeing  yarn 
in  mechanical  machines.  When  using  Thiogene  colours,  however,  the  liquid 
must  not  be  entirely  drawn  off  after  dyeing ;  half  of  it  is  left  in  the  goods,  the 
other  half  replaced  with  water,  and  the  so  diluted  liquid  allowed  to  circulate. 
This  operation  is  repeated,  until  the  water  runs  off  clear. 

In  the  following  pages  we  give  a  selection  of  yarn  dyeings,  with  recipes 
for  weaving,  knitting,  and  sewing  yarns. 

The  dyeing  of  weaving  yarns  occupies  the  most  extensive  place  in  the 
dyeing  of  hank  yarns.  It  is  employed  both  for  multicoloured  fabrics  (dress 
goods)  and  for  heavy  plain  goods  which,  owing  to  the  difficulty  in  being  dyed 
through,  cannot  be  dyed  in  the  piece.  Such  fabrics  are  heavy  corset  materials, 
mattress  cloths,  tent  canvas,  fabrics  for  technical  uses  etc. 

We  have  arranged  the  patterns  of  weaving  yarns  according  to  the  groups 
of  colours  used. 

The  direct  (substantive)  colours  have  the  advantage  of  a  simple  and  con- 
venient mode  of  dyeing,  which  causes  them  to  be  preferred  for  cheap  staple 
articles. 

Basic  colours,  on  account  of  their  vividness  and  brilliancy,  are  chiefly 
adapted  for  yarns  intended  for  special  effects. 

Greater  fastness  is  obtained  with  Thiogene  Colours  which,  owing  to  their 
comparatively  simple  mode  of  dyeing,  are  ever  gaining  in  favour,  and  have 
already  become  quite  indispensable  in  large  spheres  of  application.  It  is  safe 
to  predict  that  they  will  also  play  a  great  part  in  dyeing  vegetable  fabrics  for 
military  purposes. 

Despite  the  continuous  inrush  of  new  products  the  old  representatives  of 
fast  cotton  dyeing  are  still  occupying  the  field.  Nor  is  this  due  to  the  conserv- 
atism of  the  dyer.  Indigo  and  Alizarine  Red  are  still  in  their  old  place,  and 
control  the  greatest  part  of  fast  dyeing.  This  is  owing  to  the  bright  and  full 
shades  that  distinguish  these  colours,  and  give  the  goods  a  characteristic  appear- 
ance, unobtainable  with  other  dyestuffs ;  not  to  mention  their  well  proved 
properties  of  fastness,  whereby  the  goods  retain  a  fine  appearance,  even  after 
years  of  wear. 


--a©c=~ 


—     40     — 


Recipes  for  page  41. 


1. 


I1  i    Hi  mil   Direct   Yellow  S. 

■-'. 
Dianil  Klue  H  6  G. 


I  i  mil  Pink   BD. 


1%  Dianil   Blue  II  2  G 
diazotised    and  developed    with  /'-X.iphtol. 

5. 
4%  Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  4  BS. 


1%  Dianil   Blue  G. 


nil  Oi  inge  X 
aftertreated  with 
2°/o  Azophor  Red  PN  and 
l°/o  sodium  acetate. 


3°/o  Dianil  Green  G 
1,25%  Auiophenine  O. 


l,5°/o  Dianil  Violet   H. 

10. 

4°/o  Dianil  Green  B. 

11. 
i    ..   I  ■■  mil  Chrome  Bro\i  n  K. 

aftertreated  with 
2°/o  copper   vitriol 
irome  potash 
.  -tic  acid   12°  Tw. 


12. 
4°/o  Dianil  Blue  H    3   G 
2°/o  Dianil  Blue  R. 

13. 
I"  .    I  oluj  li  ne  '  '<  inge  R. 
aftertreated  with 

2°  o  A.. .ph.. i    Red  PN 
l°/o  sodium  acetate. 


14. 
4,5°/o  Dianil  Darkbluc   K. 

15. 
4,5  '  o  Dianil   Brown  B 
aftertreated  with 
2°/0  Azophoi    Red   PN. 

l°/o  sodium   acetate. 


16. 


0,5    |    Methj  li  ne  Heliotrope  O. 

17. 
Methylene  Yellow  H. 


18. 
tin  salt 

I  otton  Light  Blue  O  sol. 
5    °/o  alum 

re  vol.  I  page  130). 


19. 

0,4  °,o   Rosazeine   4 « »   extra 
upon  oil  mordant 
(compare  vol.  I  page  131). 


20. 
2°/o   -Methylene  Blue  2B  cone. 

21. 

•_"  o  Janus  Yellow   R. 


22. 
L,25°/«  Anramine  O 
0.1    l'/o  Methylene  tiieen  GG 
0,03",  o  Brilliant  Green    ciy-.t.  extra. 


23. 
2  °/o  Rosazeine  4  ( 1 . 

24. 
1,6         Methylene  Blue  2B  cone. 
l,2°/o   Methylene  Heliotrope  O 
0,1°  -   tndophene  Blue  B. 


25. 
1,5*  o   Rosazeine  Scarlet  G   extra. 

26 

0,5  °/o  Violet  crystals  O. 


27. 
2,5°/o  Salranine  AX   extra. 


28. 
Methylene  Cm-en  GG 
i  .-How  H. 


29. 

270  Methylene   Violet   3RA  extra 

30. 
Methylene   (irecn   extra   yellow     I". 
1  °/o  Auraminc  O. 


41 


WEAVING  YARNS. 

Dianil  Colours.  Basic  Colours. 


14 


3a  ii 


—     42     — 
Recipes  for  page  43. 


1. 


10%  Thiogcne  Golden  Yellow  AO. 


15°/o    Iliiogene  Orange   KK. 

3. 
15°/o  Thiogene  Brown  GRR. 

4. 
15%  Thiogene  Brown  RR. 


15°/o  Thiogene  Catechu  R. 


15%  Thiogene  Green  GL  extra. 


15°/o  Thiogene  Rubine  O. 

8. 

15%  Thiogene  Rubine  O 
aftertreated  with 
2     .   Copper  vitriol 

eerie  acid   12°  Tw. 


20%  Thiogene  Violet  B. 

1". 
5%  Thiogene  Cyanine  O. 

11. 

15%  Thiogene  Blue  B 

steamed  with  air. 


12. 
15°       Ihiogene  Blue  RR 
aftertreated  with 
Tome  potash 
"Pper  vitriol 
tie  acid  12°  Tw. 


13. 
liogene  Navy  Blue  R  cone. 

14. 

15%  Thiogene  Diamond  Black   V. 

15. 

12%  Thiogene  Black  M  cone. 

16. 

On  Chrome  Mordant: 

(compare  vol.  I,  page  190  Method  C.) 
2,4    m  Alizarine  Yellow  5G  powder. 

17. 

Proceed  same  as  16. 
12%  Alizarine  Yellow   GG   paste. 


18. 
Proceed  same  as  16. 

arine   Yellow    K    j    ste, 

19. 

New  Red  Method. 

(Compare  vol.  I,  page  180.) 
12    ,i  Alizarine  Orang 

bo! 

On  Chrome  Mordant: 

Proceed  same  as   16. 
12%  Alizarine  Orange  paste. 


21. 

Proceed  same  as  16. 

12%  Alizarine   Red  2  AG  paste  20%. 


22. 

Proceed  same  as  16. 

12%  Alizarine  Claret  R  paste  15%. 

23. 
On  Iron  Mordant: 

(Compare  vol.  I,   page   189.) 
5°/o   Alizarine    Red   Ko.  1   paste  20%. 

24. 

Proceed  same  as  23. 
izarine  Red   IB  paste  20%. 

25. 

Proceed  same  as   16. 
2,5%    Alizarine   Brown   paste 

Alizarine    Yellow    R   paste. 

26. 

Proceed  same  as   16. 
12"  o  Alizarine  Brown  paste. 


27. 
Proceed  same  as   16. 
rul(  ine  s\Y  ■ 
1         Alizarine   Yellow   .">G   powder. 


28. 
Proceed  same  as   16. 
12%  CeruleSne  s\\ 


29. 
Blue  Fast  to  Bleaching. 

(Compare  vol.  I,   page   191.   Method  D.) 
4%  Alizarine  Blue  SB  powder. 

30! 

Proceed  same  as  29. 

1  i   '  ..    Aii.  nine    Blue   F    j 

rine  Red  No.  1,  paste  20%. 


—     43     - 
WEAVING  YARNS. 


Thiogene  Colours. 


Alizarine  Colours. 


16 


22 


23 


'J  I 


26 


27 


2S 


29 


30 


—     44     — 


Recipes  for  pa 


l. 


Simplified  Method. 

On  bleached  yarn : 
0,4        Alizarine  Red  IB  paste  20°/o. 


I  same  as  1. 
On  bleached  >  irn: 
0,8 °/o  Alizarine  Red  1  B  paste  20°  ,.- 


3. 

Proceed  same  as    1. 

On   bleached  yarn : 

1,8  °/o  Alizarine  Red   1  B  paste  20  V 


4. 

Proceed  same  as   1. 

On   bleached   yarn  : 

3,5%   Alizarine   Red    IB  paste  20°/o. 


Proceed  same  as   1. 
6°/o   Alizarine  Red   IB  paste  20°/o. 


6.  , 

New  Red  Method. 

(Compare   vol.  I,  page   180.) 
10°/o   Alizarine   Red   BAG    paste  20o,'o. 


Proceed  same  as  6. 
9%  Alizarine   Red  2  AG  paste  20°/o. 
lo/0  Alizarine  Claret  R   paste   15°/o- 


Proceed  same  as  6 

7»/c  A  '     20«/i' 

R   paste  1.j»o. 


So„  Alizarine  Red  No.  1   paste  20°/o. 
.",  "„   Alizarine  Claret  R  paste  15°/o- 


10. 
Proceed  same  as  6. 
■1" .,  Alizarine  Red  X...  1   paste  20%. 
1""„  Alizarine  Claret  R  paste  15°/o. 


11. 
On  Mixed  Mordant: 
Alumina-Iron  Mordant. 
re  vol.  I,  pa- 
in" „  Alizarine  Red  No.  1   paste  20%. 


12. 

Old  Red  Method. 

i1  i ''ni  ■■'    vol.  1 .  p  ige  178.) 

1     ,,  Ali:  irine  Red   No.  1  paste  20%. 


13. 

Proceed   same   as    12. 
7%  Alizarine   Red   IB  paste  20%. 


14. 
Proceed  same    •   12. 

1"     ,,    Alizarine   Red   2Abl.   paste  20%. 


15. 

Proceed   same  as   12. 

12%  Alizarine  Red  2  AG  paste  20%. 


Of  the  annexed  patterns  of  Indigo  dyeings 
Nos.   16,    17,    18   and    19    "re  dyed   with    Indigo   MLB  in   the  zinc-lime  vat, 
Nos.  20.  21  and  22  with  Indigo  MLB  l    in  the  hydrosulphite  vat, 
Nos.  23,  24,  25  and  26  with  Indigo  Ml  i;  R   in  the  hydrosulphite  vat, 
Nos.  27,  28,  29  and  30  with  Indigo   MLB  RR   in  the  hydrosulphite  vat. 
rding  the  dyeing  operation  see  vol.  I.  pages  158,  164  and  lti7 — 169. 


WEAVING  YARNS. 

Alizarine  Red.  Indigo. 


46     — 


Directions  for  patterns  on  page  47. 


0,25  °/0  Oxydianil  Yellow  G 
0,25%   I>ianil   Direct   Yellow   S. 


il    Yellow   G 
i  lianil   Direct  Yellow   S. 


1,5°  o  '  »xidianil  Yellow  G 

1,5  %  Diaoil     Direct  Yellow  S. 

4. 

1%  Thiogene  Cyanine  G. 

5. 
3%  Thiogene  Cyanine  G. 

6. 

9°/,i  Thiogene  Cyanine   ii. 

7. 
3°/o  Thiogene  Orange  RR. 

8. 

9  %   Thiogene  Orange  RR. 

9. 
l.j"  o  Thiogene  Orange  KR. 

10. 
3%  Thiogene  Green   HI,  extra. 

11. 

9  °/o  Thiogene  Green  BL  extra. 

12. 

15%  Thiogene  Green  BL  extra. 

13. 

2%  Primuline  O 
Diazottsed  and  developed  «  itli  Claret  Red  1  >  \ 

14. 

4%  Primuline  O 
Diazotised  and  developed  with  Claret  Red  Dei 

15. 

8%  Primuline  O 
m1  and  developed  w  iili  Claret  Red  Developer. 

16. 
Indigo   MLB  KR. 

17. 
Indigo  MLB/RR. 

18. 
.   MLB  KR. 

19. 

1  %  'i  i  '  ck  B. 

20. 
5%  Thiogene  Diamond  Black  B. 

21. 

10%  Thiogene   Diamond  Black  B. 


22. 

2     °  o  Thiogene  Yellow  GG 

Thiogene  Green  GL  extra. 

23. 

6       %  Thiogene  Yellow 

1,25%  Thiogene  Green  GL  extra. 

24. 

1,6%  Thiogene   Yellow    GG 

4     %  Thiogene  Green  GL  extra. 

25. 

0,75%  Alizarine  IB  Paste  20%. 

26. 

1,8 °/o   Alizarine   IB   Paste  20%. 

-7. 
4,5%  Alizaiine  IB  Paste  20%. 

2cT 
Indigo  MLB  1. 

29. 

Indigo  Ml  B 

30 

Indigo   MLB  1. 

31. 

3%  Thiogene  Rubine  O, 

Sulphate. 

32. 

9  %  Thiogene  Rubine  O, 

treated  with   Copper  Sulphate. 

33. 

I  hiogene   Rubine  O, 
treated  with   Copper  Sulphate. 


Methylene  Green  extra  yellow  cone. 
0,5%    Methylene   Yellow    11. 

1,5%  Methylene  Green  extra  yellow  cone. 
1,5%  Methylene  Yellmv     11. 


3,5  %  Methylene  Green  extra  yellow  cone. 
thylene  Yellow  H. 

3%  Thiogene  Brov 

38. 
9%  Thiogene  Brown  GR. 

39. 

l'i"  o  Thiogene  Brown  GR. 

40! 

i  biogene  Blue  R. 

41. 

ne  Blue  R. 

42. 

15%  Thiogene  Blue  R. 


—     47     — 

MERCERIZED  EMBROIDERY  YARN. 

(Dyed  in  an  open  vessel. 


—     48     — 
Directions  for  patterns  on  page  49. 

1.  10. 


On  bleached  cotton 

Aurophenine  O. 


( in    Mr  [i  lua    futtOIl 
0,12-°/o   Auropbenine  O. 


On  bleached  cotton 
0,6      °/o  Auropbenine  O 
0,005  "/o   DianU  Brown  D. 


.nil   Violet   H 

i  let  8BS. 


11. 
L,5   i  ,.  Hi, ml  Vriin«  3G 

ii  2    '  „    In  mil    Azurine  G. 


12. 

1,5   °/o  Dianil  Yellow  3G 

0,5    °/0  Dianil  B 

0,1    °/0  Dianil  Dark  Green  B 

0,15  °/o  Dianil  Azurine  G. 


On  bleached  cotton 
1,5      "/'o  Auropbenine  O 
0,008  "/o  Dianil   Brown   D. 


On  bleached  cotton 
0,23  °/o  Dianil  Blue  G. 


On  bleached  cotton 
0,35  "/a  Dianil  Blue  G. 


1,65  °/o   Dianil    Blue   G 
0,22  °o  Dianil  Azurine  G. 


0,12  °/o  Dianil  Crimson  B. 


0,2    c/o  Dianil  Crimson  B. 

,3  I         5  ulet  8BS. 


2,5  °/o  Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  8BS. 
2,5  °/o  Dianil  Crimson   B. 


14. 
5°'o  Dianil  Crimson   B. 


15. 
1,2       °/0   Dianil    Black  T 
0.03    °/o   Dianil   Brown  2G 
0,02    °/o  Toluylene  I  h 
0,025  °/o  Aurophenine  O. 


16. 

2,5    °/o  Dianil  Black  T 

0,25  %  Dianil  Brow  D    J 

0,12  °/o  Aurophenine  O 

0,02°  ,i  Toluylene  Orange  R. 


17. 

4     °/0  Dianil  Brown  2G 

0,3°/o   Dianil   Black   I 

0,2  °/o  Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  4BS. 


18. 

1,5    °/0  Dianil    Brown   2G 

]    Brown    1> 
1,25  °/o  Dianil  Crimson  B. 


49     — 


Direction  for  patterns  on  page  50- 


0,08    °/o  DianU  Black  T 
0,005  °/o  Aurophenine  O. 


20. 

0,12%  Dianil  Black  T 
0,02%   DiJnil   Brown  5G. 


21. 

0,3    %  Dianil  Black  T 
0,05%  Dianil  Brown  2G 
0,05  %  Aurophenine  O. 


28. 

2,5    %,   Tannic  Acid 

1,25  °/o  Tartar  Emetic 

1,8    °/0  Malachite  Green  Cryst.  extra 

2,4    %  Auramine  II 

2       %  Acetic  Acid. 


29. 
2,5    °/0  Dianil  Brown  2G 
0,12  °/0  Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  4BS. 


22. 

0,7    %  Dianil  Black  T 
0,28  %  Dianil  Brown  5  G. 


4,5    °/0  Dianil  Brown  2G 

0,5    %   Dianil   Fast  Scarlet  4  BS 

0,55  °/o  Dianil  Black  T. 


23. 

0,4    °/o  Aurophenine  O 
0,04%  Dianil  Brown  5G 
0,04  °/o  Dianil  Black  T. 


24. 

1,25  °/o  Aurophenine  O 
0,1    %  Dianil  Brown  5G 
0,02%  Dianil  Black  T. 


25. 

2,25  %   Aurophenine  O 
0,5    %  Dianil  Brown  3  GO 
0,01  °/0  Dianil  Dark   Green  B. 


31. 
3°/o  Dianil  Blue  G. 


32. 

2     %  Dianil  Blue  G 
0,2  °/o  Aurophenine  O. 


33. 

0,75  °/o  Dianil  Brown  5G 
0,12%   Dianil   Black  T 
0,04%  Aurophenine  O. 


26. 

2 

1 

% 
°/o 

Tannic 
Tartar 

Acid 
Emetic 

0,45  %  Malachite  Green  Cryst. 

1  °/0  Auramine  II 

2  °/0  Acetic  Acid. 


2       %   Dianil  Brown  5G 
0,5    %  Dianil   Black  T 
0,25  °/o  Dianil  Crimson  B. 


4,5      °/0  Dianil  Blue  G 
0,005%   Dianil  Dark   G 


2,5    %  Tannic  Acid 

1,25%  Tartar  Emetic 

0,8    %  Malachite  Green  Cryst.  extra 

1,4    %  Auramine  II 

2       %  Acetic  Acid. 


3       %  Dianil  Blue  G 
1,25%   Dianil   Black    T. 


—     50 


SEWING  COTTON. 
(For  the  direct  shades,    the  cotton  was  dyed   in   the  Obermaier-niachim- ;   the 
basic  colours  were  dyed  in  an  open  vessel.) 


1 1 


is 


L'" 


21 


25 


26 


l>s 


33 


::i 


—     51     — 

B.    WARPS. 

Cotton  Warps  are  generally  dyed  in  continuous  machines  which  are  especially 
constructed  for  this  purpose. 

No.  7  illustrates  the  most  generally  employed  warp  dyeing  cistern.  The 
warps  pass  through  this  cistern  repeatedly  (in  one  direction)  viz  until  the  desired 
shade  is  obtained. 

For  Thiogene  Blacks  a  much  bigger  machine  is  used  in  order  to  dye  the 
warps  in  one  operation.  This  machine  consists  either  of  a  range  of  several 
cisterns  or  of  one  long  cistern  (fig.  8)  divided  into  3  or  more  compartments  and 
containing  the  same  number  of  squeezing  appliances.  The  boiled  warps  are 
entered  white  and  pass  alternately  through  the  dye  liquid  and  the  various  sets 
of  squeezing  rollers,  they  are  then  taken  through  a  continuous  washing  machine 
(which  generally  contains  compartments  for  warm  and  cold  water)  and  finally  dried. 


Fie.  7. 


A  special  kind  of  Warp  dyeing  machines  is  the  following  (fig.  9),  con- 
structed by  John  W.  Fries  of  Winston-Salem  N.  C,  U.  S.  A. 

The  warp  passes  first  through  trough  A,  containing  the  dyebath,  then 
enters  chamber  K  which  is  heated  by  indirect  steam  and  also  contains  two  heating 
drums  Bi  and  B2,  over  which  the  warp  travels  up  and  down  past  the  heating 
coil  C.  The  chamber  K  further  contains  an  inlet  for  direct  steam,  to  be  used  if 
required.  On  leaving  the  box  the  warp  passes  through  rings  Ji  and  J2,  then  over 
the  drums  Di,  D2,  D3,  thence  over  rollers  E  and  F  back  over  the  drums,  and 
is  finally  delivered  over  roller  G  near  the  starting  trough  A.      (Fig.  9.) 

In  dyeing  with  Sulphur  Colours  or  Diphenvl  Black  the  warp,  previous  to 
being  dried  over  the  drums,  is  passed  through  the  washing  cistern  H.  This 
contains  two  compartments.  The  first  is  used  for  topping  f.  e.  with  Basic 
Colours,  the  second  for  rinsing.  —  When  dyeing  with  Para  Red  the  warps  are 
prepared    with    Naphtol    in     trough    A;     passed     through     the    drying    system, 


—     52     — 


then  developed  with  Azophor  Red  in  the 
first  compartment  of  cistern  H,  and  finally 
rinsed  in  the  second  compartment  and  dried. 
When  a  warp  is  dyed  with  Indigo, 
the  dyeing  trough  A  must  be  rather  larger, 
in  order  to  allow  the  warp  to  pass  several 
times  through  the  dye  solution. 


In  dyeing  warps  on  the  beam,  the  dye 
liquid  is  pressed  alternately  from  without  to 
within  and  from  within  to  without  through 
the  yarn  wound  upon  a  perforated  cylin- 
der. Figs  10  and  11  are  sketches  of  the 
Schubert-Apparatus,  constructed  by 
the  Zittauer  Maschinenfabrik  und  Eisen- 
giesserei,  which  illustrate  the  dyeing  of 
warps  on  the  beam. 

The  apparatus  contains  a  vacuum  and 

compressed    air-pump,    high    level    cistern 

for  preparing  the  dyebath,  and  connexion 

.   pipes.     These    are    so    arranged    that    the 

(^  perforated  cylinder,  upon  which  the  warp 

"   is  beamed,    is    firmly   held    between    their 

joints;   moreover  thej-  can  be  lowered  or 

raised  at  will. 

On  starting  the  cylinder  is  lowered  into 
the  dyevat  and  the  liquid  at  once  sucked 
through  the  material  from  without  to  within. 
By  opening  certain  valves  the  liquid  is  then 
drawn  back  by  the  vacuum  pump  into  the 
high  level  cistern.  On  changing  the  pump, 
by  opening  and  closing  different  valves,  the 
circulation  is  now  reversed,  viz.  the  liquid 
pressed  through  the  material  from  within 
to  without.  Each  manipulation  takes  about 
1  min.,  and  these  are  repeated  until  the 
desired  shade  is  obtained.  For  this  process 
the  Dianil  and  Thiogene  Colours  are  suitable. 
The  thicker  the  warp  on  the  beam  and  the 
firmer  it  is  dressed,  the  greater  is  the 
resistance  to  the  penetration  of  the  mordant 
and  dye  liquid.  Care  must  therefore  be  taken 
to  beam  the  warps  properly  and  suitably. 


—     53     — 


Fig.  9. 


Fig.  10. 


Fig.  11. 


The  washing  of  the  dyed  material  is  done  on  the  apparatus  itself,  as  are 
also  any  necessary  aftertrcatments.  After  the  superfluous  fluid  has  been  removed 
the  beam  is  lifted  out  of  the  liquid  by  a  winding  contrivance,  and  for 
further  treatment  passed  on  to  the  sizing  machine. 

For  goods  upon  which  no  great  demands  are  made  as  to  fastness  to 
washing,  the  warp  can  be  dyed  in  the  size  itself  in  one  passage.  For  this 
the  Dianil  Colours  are  best  suited.  The  beamed  warp  is  passed  through  the 
trough  of  the  sizing  machine  containing  the  hot  coloured  size,  then  squeezed 
through  two  rubber  rollers,  dried  upon  hot  cylinders,  and  finally  dressed  on 
thi    In 'am  again. 

The  sizing  bath  must  be  free  from  copper  salts,  and  kept  neutral  or 
slightly  alkaline  according  to  the  dyestuff  used. 


— 3®C~ 


C.    COPS  AND  CHEESES. 

The  dyeing  of  cotton  yarn  in  the  form  of  cops  and  cheeses  is  effected 
in  a  single  operation,  in  order  to  save  wages,  and  to  obviate  injury  to  the  fibre 
by  the  various  mechanical  processes  (hanking,  dyeing,  respooling).  Cop  dyeing 
has  only  recently  been  perfected,  so  that  this  branch  of  yarn  dyeing  has  now- 
become  indispensable  to  the  industry,  thanks  to  the  many  rationally  and  accurately 
working  apparatus. 

Cops  and  cheeses  can  be  dyed  either  on  mechanical  dyeing  apparatus 
working  on  the  so-called  packing  system,  already  sketched  in  figure  1,  or  on 
apparatus  of  the  creel  system,  or  else  by  means  of  froth  dyeing. 

In  operating  on  the  packing  system,  the  cops  are  placed  in  layers 
into  the  dyevessel,  after  having  plugged  the  paper  tubes  with  wood,  metal  or 
rubber.  In  some  dyeworks  the  spaces  between  the  cops  are  filled  evenly,  with 
loose  cotton  or  waste  yarn.  The  vessel  being  filled,  and  the  top  covered  with 
loose  cotton  or  yarn,  it  is  closed  with  a  lid  and  the  contents  pressed  together. 
Dyeing  and  rinsing  is  carried  out  as  already  described.  The  cops  are  then 
hydroextracted,  and  finally  dried  after  removing  the  plugs. 

The  cops  are  dried  by  placing  them  upright  and  singly  upon  the  pegs  of 
specially  constructed  frames,  which  are  then  taken  bodily  into  the  drying  chamber. 
Sometimes  also  specially  constructed  mechanical  machines  are   used   for  drying. 

The  temperature  and  duration  of  the  drying  operation  must  depend  on 
the  manner  of  dyeing. 

To-day  cops  and  cheeses  arc  dyed  mostly  in  apparatus  of  the  creel  system 
in  order  to  preserve  the  shape  of  the  cops.  The  cops  which  are  wound  upon 
perforated  tubes  are  put  on  perforated  spindles  affixed  to  the  dyeing  apparatus. 
The  dye  liquid  is  then  pressed  mechanically  through  each  individual  cop,  a 
larger  or  smaller  number  of  which  are  combined  on  so  called  cop-carriers. 


—     55     — 

These  may  be  either  fixed  to  the  dyeing  apparatus  proper,  or  may  be 
transportable. 

Fig.  12  represents  a  dyeing  apparatus  for  cops  and  cheeses  built  by 
B.  Thies  of  Coesfeld  i.  Westphalia  which  contains  a  transportable  frame 
or  carrier. 

Whilst,  in  the  above  described  mechanical  dyeing  apparatus,  the  circulation 
of  the  liquid  is  effected  by  pumps,  the  Thies  apparatus  makes  use  of  the  latter 
only  indirectly:  by  creating  a  vacuum  by  means  of  a  pump.  The  fluid  is  sucked 
through  in  the  first  place,  but  it  flows  back  through  the  material  in  the  opposite 
direction  by  atmospheric  pressure. 


After  the  material  has  been  dyed  in  the  above  described  manner,  the  cop 
frame  is  lifted  out  of  the  dye  vessel  by  special  contrivances,  and  the  liquid 
extracted  by  a  draining  apparatus,  whereby  the  superfluous  liquid  is  recovered. 

Care  must  be  taken  that  the  dye  liquid  is  quickly  removed  from  the  cops 
before  rinsing.  This  can  be  successfully  done  by  blowing  dry  high  pressure 
steam   through.     Frequently  also  compressed  air  is  used  for  the  same   purpose. 


The  third  method  of  dyeing  Cops  and  cheeses  is  froth  dyeing.  It  is  speci- 
ally used  for  staple  colours,  upon  which  too  great  demands  for  the  outward 
appearance  of  the  cops  are  not  made.     Its  inventor  is  C.  Wanke. 


Fig.  13  illustrates  a  simple  installation  principally  employed  for  dyeing 
cheeses. 

Into  a  cistern,  about  72  inches  high,  39  inch,  broad  and  36  inch,  deep,  a 
movable  crate  is  fitted,  the  feet  of  which  arc  raised  about  10  inches  from  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel,  to  which  is  fixed  a  heating  coil  for  indirect  steam,  with 
a  heating  surface  2*/s   times  as  great  as  the  bottom   surface. 

To  the  dye  liquid  which  consists  of  the  dyestuff  and  sodium  sulphide 
hut  no  other  salts,  some  Turkey  red  oil  may  be  added  in  order  to  increase  the 
frothing.  The  material  having  been  packed  into  the  crate,  the  dye  liquid  which 
must  not  reach  quite  up  to  its  bottom,  is  heated  till  it  frothes  and  the  crate 
inserted.  The  material  is  now  quite  covered  by  the  froth  without  coming  into 
direct  contact  with  the  dye  liquid.  The  evaporating  liquid  can  be  replenished 
by  direct  steam  being  led  into  the  cistern,  or  by  gradual  addition  of  hot  or  con- 
densed water. 


Although  by  this  process  a  large  amount  of  steam  is  used,  its  simplicity 
has  so  manv  advantages  that  they  have  contributed  to  introduce  it  into  practice. 
Froth  dyeing  permits  the  working  of  lots  of  200  lbs  of  cheeses. 

The  proportion  of  dye  liquid  to  weight  of  material  is  about  1  :  4  or  1  :  5. 
After  dyeing  the  crate  is  lifted  out  of  the  cistern,  brought  into  an  adjoining 
rinsing  bath,  and  after  cooling  the  material  is  washed  in  the  hydroextractor  by 
squirting  cold  water  upon  it.  If  the  old  bath  is  not  used  again,  it  is  advis- 
able to  rinse  in  the  apparatus  itself. 

Since  for  all  mechanical  machine  dyeing  concentrated  dye  liquids  are  required 
which  have  to  be  pressed  through  the  material,  only  very  soluble  dyestuffs  and 
clear,  soft,  or  corrected  waters  are  suitable.  Instead  of  common  salt  the  more 
soluble  Glauber's  salt  is  used,  or  the  salt  is  entirely  dispensed  with  in  dyeing. 
Small  additions  of  Turkey  red  oil  favour  an  even  penetration. 

The  dyeing  operation  is  carried  out  at  the  boil:  the  material  is  dyed  in 
the  machine  for    lja      l'j   hours,  and  rinsed  in  the  same  machine. 


57 


Dyestuffs  suitabl 
Primuline  O, 

Dianil  Yellow  3G,  R,  2R, 
Dianil  Pure  Yellow  HS, 
Oxydianil  Yellow  G,  O, 
Aurophenine  O, 
Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S, 
Dianil  Orange  G,  N, 
Toluylene  Orange  R, 
Dianil   Brown   3  GO,   2G,   3R, 

G,  BD,  B, 
Dianil  Chrome  Brown  R, 
Dianil  Red  4B,  10  B, 
Deltapurpurine  5B, 
Dianil  Scarlet  4BS,  8  BS, 
Dianil  Pink  BD, 
Dianil  Fast  Red  PH, 
Dianil  Crimson  B, 
Dianil  Claret  G,  B, 
Dianil  Violet  H, 
Dianil  Blue  H6G,  H3G,  G,  B, 

2R,  BX,  HG,  3R,  4R, 
Dianil  Azurine  G, 


e  for  mechanical  machine  dyeing: 

Dianil  Indigo  O, 

Dianil  Dark  Blue  3R, 

Dianil  Green  B,  G, 

Dianil  Dark  Green  B, 

Dianil  Black  ES,  CR,  CB, 

Patent  Dianil  Black,  all  brands, 

Thiogene  Golden  Yellow  AO, 

Thiogene  Yellow  GG,  G, 
R,  R1H,      Thiogene  Orange  OG,  RG,  R,  RR, 

Thiogene  Brown  GC,  GR,  GRR,  RR,  S, 

Thiogene  Khaki  O, 

Thiogene  Rubine  O, 

Thiogene  Cyanine  G,   O, 

Thiogene  Blue  B,  R,  RR, 

Thiogene  Dark  Blue  BL,  BTL, 

Thiogene  Green,  B,  GG,  BL  extra,  GL 
extra, 

Thiogene  Black,  all  brands  except: 
Thiogene  Diamond  Black  B,  V, 
H2G,  R,  Thiogene  Black  4B  cone,   5B  cone. 

Indigo  MLB,  MLB/R,  MLB;RR,  MLB,T. 


-- =xS*^- 


AFTERTREATMENT  FOR  ALTERING  THE 
HANDLE  OF  GOODS. 

In  the  dyeing  of  cotton  there  occurs  frequently  a  loss  in  weight  varying 
according  to  the  material  and  the  mode  of  dyeing,  and  is  attributable  either  to 
boiling,  bleaching  or  dyeing.  Hereby  and  by  the  absorption  of  the  dyestuff  the 
lustre  and  the  elasticity  of  the  fibre  may  be  more  or  less  diminished.  In  order 
to  obviate  this,  several  methods  of  aftertreatment  have  been  devised,  to  improve 
or  alter  the  handle  and  embellish  the  shade.  These  methods  have  chiefly  been 
introduced  for  cops,  cheeses  and  hank-yarns.  Piece  goods  are  improved  by 
finishing. 

A.  Substances  used  for  increasing  the  suppleness  and  lustre: 
Olive   oil  soap,    softening,    Monopole    soap,    Turkey    red  oil, 
cocoa  fat,  pigs  fat,  tallow,  olive  oil,  rape-seed  oil,  palm  oil,  car- 
bide oil,  glycerine. 

B.  Substances  for  improving  the  handle: 
Acetic  acid,    Tartaric  acid,    lactic  acid,    formic  acid,    also  the 
mineral  acids,  acetate  of  iron  and  acetate  of  alumina. 

4a  ii 


—     58     — 

C.  Substances  for  finishing  and  filling. 

Starch,  dextrine,  potato  flour,  glue,  vegetable  glue,  glucose, 
syrup,  extract  of  sumac,  tannin,  Glauber's  salt,  common  salt, 
magnesium  sulphate,  sulphate  of  zinc. 

I.  PRODUCTION  OF  A  SOFT  HANDLE. 

A.  Thiogene  Colours,  Developing  Colours,  and  Colours 
aftertreated  with  metal  salts. 

A  soft  wool-like  handle,  which  is  chiefly  required  for  hosiery  goods  and 
fancy  fabrics,  is  produced  in  the  following  manner: 

a)  The  goods  are  treated  after  dyeing  for  */* — */a  nour  m  a  hath  contain- 
ing 4  °/o  olive  oil  soap,  either  cold  or  warm,  according  to  the  nature  of  the 
colour.  They  are  then  brought,  without  being  wrung  out  into  a  bath  contain- 
ing  i|2 — \  oja  soda,  passed  through  twice,  and  rinsed  in  cold  water  free  from  lime. 

b)  A  still  better  result  is  obtained  by  an  aftertreatment   with 

olive  oil  soap,     )     previously  boiled 
2  °/o  cocoa  fat  1     together  with  some  water, 

in  a  warm  bath  at  176°  F.  The  material  is  passed  through  eight  times,  wrung 
off  or  hydroextracted  and  dried  at  about  104  —  122"  F.  Besides  the  soft  handle 
this  aftertreatment  deepens  the  shades  especially  in  blacks  and  browns. 

By  the  following  methods  c  and  d  not  only  a  wool-like  handle  but  also  a 
considerable  deepening  of  the  shade  is  obtained. 

c)  The  yarn  which  has  been  well  rinsed  after  dyeing,  is  passed  five  times 
through  a  bath  containing  2%  acetate  of  soda,  at  122°  F.  It  is  then  rinsed 
in  cold  water,  and  brought  into  a  fresh  bath  of  176''  F.  containing 

2°/o   carbide  oil  BX  (Korndorfer),  and 

1 1,2  "  i    soda  calc. 
After  being  passed  six  or  seven  times,   the  yarn  is  taken  out,  cooled  by  hang- 
ing, then  hydroextracted,  and  finally  dried  at  105—122"  F. 

d)  Carbide  oil  and  soda  can  be  replaced  by 

0,5  °/o  wheat  starch, 

1,2  "o   monopole  soap  or  Turkey  red  oil, 
2  " .,   lard  or  tallow. 
A  short  steaming  for  about   10  minutes  after  softening  and  drying  increases  the 
lustre  and  elasticity  of  the  yarns.    At  the  same  time  the  loss  in  weight  caused 
by  overheating  is  thereby  counterbalanced. 

B.  Basic  Colours. 

The  material  is  entered  after  dyeing  into  a  cold  bath  containing   1  '  . 
Turkey    red  oil  or  monopole  soap,    passed   through    six  or  seven  times,    hydro- 


—     59     — 

extracted  and  dried   at   86 — 104°  F.     This  aftertreatment   may  alter  the  shade 
of  some  colours,  which  has  to  be  taken  into  consideration  in  dyeing. 

C.  Dianil  Colours. 

Yarns  dyed  with  Dianil  Colours  are  softened  by  the  addition  of  1  '/s — 2l/2°/o 
monopole  soap  or  Turkey  red  oil  to  the  dyebath.  After  rinsing  the  yarn  is 
wrung,  or  hydroextracted  and  dried. 

II.  PRODUCTION  OF  SCROOP  HANDLE. 

A  .scroop  or  silk  handle  is  obtained  by  one  or  several  soap  baths,  each 
followed  by  treatment  with  acid,  to  which  several  additions  are  made,  according 
to  the  mode  of  dyeing. 

A.  Thiogene  Colours: 

The  dyed  yarns,    after   being  thoroughly    rinsed,    are   brought   into   a   bath 
containing  3 — 4  °/o    oilive  oil  soap,    and  worked    for   */a  hour.     The  temperature 
depends    upon    the    shade.     The    lighter   colours    are   dyed    colder,    in    order    to 
shade  them  with  substantive  or  basic  dyestuffs,  if  required.     Black  or  deep  shades 
are  soaped    hot  or  at   the  boil,    which    is   most    favourable    to  the  handle.     The 
material  is  then  rinsed  in  tepid  water,  and  brought  into  a  fresh  bath  containing. 
3 — 5  °'0  acetic  acid,  formic  acid  or  lactic  acid, 
2 — 3°/o  Tartaric  acid,  and 
Vs — 1  °/o   glue,  starch  or  potatd  flour. 
It  is  passed  through  seven  or  eight  times,  hydroextracted  and  dried. 

For  twisted  or  weaving  yarns  an  addition  is  made  to  the  bath,  shortly 
before  entering,  of  an  oil  emulsion  consisting  of 

1 — 1  '/a  °/o   olive  oil,  palm  oil  or  cocoa  oil, 
x/2-V/o   soda, 
Va  —  3/-t°/o   soap  solution  1:10. 
First  the  oil  and    soda  are  mixed,    the    soap  solution    is   added,    and    the  whole 
boiled  with  direct  steam.    The  emulsion  must  froth  and  no  particles  of  fat  must 
separate.     It  is  added  to  the  slightly  heated  softening  bath  and  well  stirred. 

The  goods  are  then  entered  at  once,  passed  through  six  to  seven  times, 
hydroextracted  without  being  previously  rinsed,  and  dried  at  104 — 122  °  F.  The 
yarn  must  be  stretched  before  dyeing. 

B.  Basic  Colours. 

After  being  treated  with  tannin,  or  with  Tartar  emetic,  the  yarn  is  mani- 
pulated for  '/a  hour  in  a  bath  at  113°  F.  containing  4°'o  olive  oil  soap;  then 
passed  through  warm  water  at  86°  F.,  afterwards  treated  in  a  fresh  acid  bath 
with  3 — 4°/o   hydrochloric  acid  or  sulphuric  acid,  and  passed  once  through  cold 


—     GO     — 

water.    Finally  it  is  dyed  with  an  addition  of  acetic  acid,   rinsed  in  cold  water, 
and  softened  at  77-  86°  F  with 

4  — 6°/o   acetic  acid  or  formic  acid,  and 
'•j  —  1  ";'o   glue,  potato  flour  or  starch. 
The   shade   can,    if  necessary,    be    improved  in  the  softening  bath.    The  yarn  is 
dried  at    104°   F 

C.  Dianil  Colours. 

The  yarn  is  dyed  by  adding  to  the  bath 

2— 3°/o   olive  oil  soap, 
1ja — l°/o  soda, 
and  the  necessary  amount  of  common    salt  or  Glauber's  salt,    rinsed    tepid    and 
.softened   for  about   10  minutes  in  a  fresh  bath  with 

3 — 4°,o  acetic  acid,  formic  acid  or  lactic  acid, 
2— 3°/o   Tartaric  acid, 
x/2 — 1  °/o   starch,  glue  or  potato  flour. 
It  is  then  hydrocxtracted,  and  dried  without  rinsing  at   104°  F. 

These  processes  are  suitable  for  both  mercerized  and  non-mercerized  yarns, 
but   the  handle  turns  out  better  in  mercerized  yarns. 

In  order  to  give  mercerised  cotton  a  durable  silk  handle,  the  yarn  is 
treated  with  soap  and  soda  before  dyeing,  then  brought  into  a  mineral  acid  bath 
and  rinsed.  After  dyeing  it  is  treated  with  softening  scap,  soured  and  dried. 
The  softening  baths  may  be  used  again. 

III.  WEIGHTING  OF  COTTON  YARN. 

For  certain    purposes    an    artificial  weighting    of  cotton  yarns  is  desirable. 
It  can  be  effected  in  the  following  manner.     For  50  Kos  (100  lbs)  yarn 
4  lbs     6       oz     2        kos  syrup, 
1   lbs    10       oz     0,75  kos  palm  oil, 

I ;i  i   oz     0,05  kos  caustic  soda  77"  Tw., 
3x/s  oz     0,1     kos  soap 
are    boiled    until    dissolved,    and    mixed  with  water    of  86°  F.     The    material    is 
treated  in  this  bath  for  about  1  hour,  wrung  out  and  dried. 

A  still   heavier  weighting  is  obtained  by  the  following  method: 

1,5  kos  starch  are  well  boiled;  then  are  added 
2,2  kos  glucose, 
2      kos  magnesium  chloride, 
1      kos  glycei  ine, 

0,4  kos  acetic  acid,  and  the  whole  diluted  to 
22  gallons    100  litres. 
The  yarn    is    passed  through  this  solution  in    lots  of  1   lb,   then  hydrocxtracted, 
and  dried    at  a  moderate  temperature 


3  lbs 

5 

oz 

4  lbs 

14 

oz 

t  lbs 

0 

oz 

2  lbs 

3 

oz 

14 

oz 

—  61  — 

AFTERTREATMENT  OF  COPS  AND  CHEESES. 

In  order  to  impart  greater   suppleness  to  dyed  cops   and  cheeses  they  are 
aftertreated  on  the  apparatus  itself.     For  this  process  are  used 
2 — 3  °/o   Turkey  red  oil  or  monopole  soap,  or 
2 — 5  °/o   olive  oil  soap,  or 
0,5 — 2  °/o  glycerine. 
For  replen:shing   these  softening   baths  half  the  quantity  of  the  ingredients  first 
used  is  sufficient. 


The  sizing  of  dyed  cheeses  on  the  machine  has  recently  occupied  the 
dyeing  industry,  as  considerable  saving  of  time  and  wages  could  thus  be  effected, 
The  difficulties  lie  chiefly  in  the  fact  that  evenness  of  the  inner  and  outer 
layers  of  the  cheeses  is  not  easily  obtained.  For  sizing  easily  soluble  sub- 
stances must  be  chosen.  Amongst  these  starch  dissolved  with  lye  has  proved 
the  most  suitable.  1 °'o  tannin  in  solution  is  pumped  through  the  rinsed  cheeses, 
sucked  out,  and  then  hot  starch  solution  circulated  through  the  material,  finally 
it  must  be  dried  quickly. 


-~3®C-- 


YARN  PRINTING. 


Printed  yarn  finds  many  uses  in  fancy  styles.  This  process  may  serve  to 
imitate  two-coloured  twisted  yarns,  and  may  also  be  applied  for  the  production 
of  bright  multicoloured  effects.  In  the  manufacture  of  bed  cloths,  flannels, 
knitted  goods,  stockings  and  hosiery,  generally  only  very  simple  designs  are 
used;  but  for  blouses  and  dress  stuffs  multi-coloured  patterns  are  preferred. 
Printed  warps  are  also  employed  for  curtains,  tapestry,  and  decorative  materials. 

I.    PREPARATION  OF  THE  YARN. 

BOILING.  The  raw  yarn  is  first  boiled,  preferably  under  pressure  of 
1 — llji  atmospheres,  for  3  to  4  hours  in  water  with  an  addition  of  a  slight  quant- 
ity of  soda  ash.  The  addition  of  soap  or  the  use  of  strong  soda  or  caustic 
alkali  is  not  permissible,  as  the  colour  ultimately  obtained  in  printing  is  then 
liable  to  run  and  bleed.  A  thorough  washing  after  boiling  is  necessary  for  the 
production  of  sharp  prints. 

CHEMICKING.  When  necessary,  the  yarns  are  slightly  chemicked  after 
boiling.  The  chemiking  liquids  should  not  be  too  strong,  else  inferior  colours 
will  result.  Details  of  the  most  suitable  chemiking  operations  are  given  in  Part  IV 
of  this  book. 

SIZING.  When  using  colours  which  bleed  readily  the  yarn  should  be 
sized  or  starched,  before  printing.  The  sizing  liquor  should  not  contain  tallow 
or  soap.  Warp  yarns  which,  after  printing  and  steaming  do  not  undergo  any 
further  operations  but  require  to  have  a  certain  amount  of  stiffness  in  order 
to  be  worked  properly  during  weaving,  obtain  abetter  appearance  if  previously 
starched. 

DYEING.  When  dyeing  yarns  to  be  subsequently  printed  with  direct 
colours,  the  use  of  soap  or  soda  is  inadmissible.  The  use  of  Turkey-red  oil 
and  other  fatty  acids  is  only  permissible  when  the  printing  colour  requires  an 
oil  preparation  for  its  proper  fixation.  On  the  other  hand  the  addition  of 
common  salt,  Glauber's  salt,  and  phosphate  of  soda  to  the  dye  bath  is  beneficial. 
For  discharge  colours  with  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone,  soda  may  be  used  during 
dyeing.    An  aftertreatment  with  copper  sulphate  is  not  suitable  for  yarns  printed 


—     63     — 

with  steam  colours,  owing  to  the  liability  of  copper  salts  to  tender  the  yarn  during 
steaming.  Dyeing  with  basic  mordant  and  azo  colouring  matters,  is  carried  out 
according  to  the  usual  methods,  although  with  the  last  two  named  groups  of 
colours  a  preparation  of  the  yarn  with  oil  is  in  many  cases  necessary.  The 
amount  of  oil  used  should  be  reduced  to  the  smallest  possible  quantity,  and 
the  yarn  after  dyeing,  thoroughly  washed  with  hot  water  to  free  it  from  the 
superfluous  oil.  This  process,  however,  is  not  suitable  for  all  colours.  Yarns 
printed  wits  Paranitraniline  are  chemicked  after  printing. 

TOPPING.  When  light  and  bright  shades  are  required,  and  especially 
when  the  colours  used  for  dyeing  do  not  stand  steaming  it  is  advisable  to  dye 
the  yarn  after  printing.  If  it  is  desirable  to  use  sulphur  colours  for  topping, 
the  printing  colour  must  be  so  selected  that  it  will  withstand  the  subse- 
quent treatment  with  sulphide  of  soda;  suitable  colours  for  this  purpose  are 
Alizarine  Yellow  5G  powder,  GG  paste,  Alizarine  Orange  paste,  Alizarine 
Brown  paste,  Alizarine  Red  all  brands,  Alizarine  Blue  SB,  SR  powder,  Chromo- 
glaucine  all  brands,  Philochromine  B  and  G  paste,  Coeruleine  all  brands,  Alizarine 
Green  S.  pas!e,  Diphenyl  Black  Base  1.     Paranitraniline  Red. 


II.  THICKENINGS  USED  FOR  YARN  PRINTING. 

1.  Wheat  starch. 

2.  Maize  starch, 

3.  Dextrine, 

4.  British  gum, 

5.  Tragacanth, 

6.  Carragheen  moss, 

7.  Senegal  gum. 

A  brief  description  of  these  thickenings  is  given  in  Part  IV  of  this  work. 
The    following    are    some    recipes    for    thickenings    for    the    so-called    iron 
machine: 

Thickening  I. 

2  lbs   141/*   oz    2,900  grs  Wheat  starch 

4  lbs  4,000  grs  tragacanth   (60  :   1000)   are   boiled   for   15  minutes 

with 
21^2   lbs  21,500  grs     water,  being  well  stirred  all  the  while,  and 

1   lbs      91/*   oz    1,600  grs     acetic  acid  50  °/o  are  added  immediately  after  boiling. 
30  lbs  30  kos.   The  thickening  is  then  cooled  and  strained. 


2'/i 

lbs 

lbs 

22 

lbs 

—       04      — 

Thickening  II. 
2,500  grs     Wheat  starch. 
5,500  grs     tragacanth  (60  :   1000)  and 
22,000  grs     water  are  well  boiled   for    l/j   hour. 


30  lbs  30  kos.  The  thickening  is  then  cooled'  and  strained. 

Thickening  III. 
2  lbs  141.'  oz    2,900  grs     Wheat  starch, 

4  lbs  4,000  grs     tragacanth  (60  :  1000)  are  well  boiled  for  10  mi- 

nutes with 
21   lbs     31/*   oz  21,200  grs     water,  then  are  added 
5  oz       300  grs     olive  oil  and 
1  lbs     9'/->  oz    1,600  grs     acetic  acid  50°/o. 


4 

lbs 

3 

lbs 

21 

lbs 

30  lbs  30  kos.   The  thickening  is  then  cooled  and  strained. 

For  printing  Alizarine  Red  small  quantities  of  Turkey  red  oil  are  added 
after  cooling  to   thickening  III. 

Thickening  IV. 

13  oz    4,800  grs     Wheat  starch, 
9'/2   oz    3,600  grs     acetic  acid  50°/o   and 

9\j  oz  21,600  grs     water  are  boiled  together  for  '/*  hour  and  cooled 
while  being  well  stirred,  and  afterwards  diluted  to 
30  lbs  30  kos. 

Both  for  the  mangle  and  the  multicolour  printing  machine  only  thin  solutions 
of  tragacanth  are  used,  viz.  about  100  grs  (l1/*  ozs)  tragacanth  (GO:  1000)  per  kilo 
(lb)  printing  colour,  or  the  colour  is   boiled  with  the  addition  of  a  little  starch. 


III.    MORDANTS  USED  IN  YARN  PRINTING. 

The  description  of  these  mordants  is  given  in  Part  IV  of  this  work. 
Acetate  of  alumina, 
Nitric  acetate  of  alumina, 
Nitrate  of  alumina, 
Sulphocyanide  of  alumina, 


Acetate  of  tin, 
Oxalate  of  tin, 
Acetate  of  iron, 
Acetate  of  lime. 


-=*§*>-- 


—     65     — 

IV.  YARN  PRINTING  MACHINES. 

Yarns  are  printed  either  in  the  hank  or  warp  form.  The  machines  for  yarn 
printing  are  divided  as  follows : 

1.  Machines  for  hanks. 

a)  Iron  or  English  machines  with  longitudinal  stripes. 

b)  Iron  machines  with  cross  stripes. 

c)  Wooden  machines  or  Bohemian  Mangles. 

2.  Machines  for  single  threads  or  warps. 

a)  Thread  printing  machines. 

b)  Warp  printing  machines. 

1.  MACHINES  FOR  HANKS, 
a)  Iron  or  English  machines  with  longitudinal  stripes. 

This  machine  serves  for  printing  fine  stripes  from  l\z — 6  mm  in  breadth. 
More  heavy  designs  are  liable  to  give  uneven  edges.  The  two  printing  rollers  have 
each  a  furnisher  which  either  takes  the  colour  from  a  roller  rotating  in  the 
colour-box  or  directly  from  the  colour-box  itself.  In  the  latter  case  the  furnishers 
have  doctors  attached  to  them. 

One  of  the  printing  rollers  is  mounted  on  the  frame  of  the  machine,  whilst 
the  other  is  fixed  on  a  frame  which  moves  on  hinges,  so  as  to  allow  the  goods 
to  enter  the  machine. 

After  the  printing  rollers  have  been  furnished  with  colour  by  allowing  them 
to  rotate  a  few  times,  the  evenly  spread  yarns  placed  on  three  guide  rollers  are 
entered  into  the  machine.  Then  the  required  pressure  is  given,  the  handle 
turned  and  the  hanks  pass  between  the  two  printing  rollers  and  are  printed 
simultaneously  on  both  sides. 


Fig.  14. 


Fig.  15. 


Uixzd 


5  ii 


—     G6     — 

This  machine  is  also  constructed  for  multi-colour  printing.  In  this  case 
each  of  the  two  printing  rollers  have  two  or  three  furnishers  with  raised  stripes. 
The  stripes  of  the  furnishers  correspond  to  each  second  or  third  stripe  of  the 
roller.  With  three  furnishers  on  each  side  one  can  print  six  colours  by  making 
the  stripes  of  the  one  roller  correspond  with  the  intervals  of  the  other  roller. 
When  using  only  2  or  3  colours  both  sides  of  the  yarn  are  printed  with  these 
colours  as  in  a  single  colour  printing  machine. 

The  following  figure  illustrates  a  multi-colour  printing  machine: 


Fig.  16. 


Figs.  14,  15  and  16  illustrate  Iron  machines  for  yarn  printing  as  made  by 
A.  Edmestone  &  Sons  in  Patricroft  and  supplied  by  John  Sumners  &  Co.  of 
Manchester. 

b)  Iron  machines  with  cross  stripes. 
These  machines  are  in  principle  similar  to  the  wooden  machines  to  be 
described  further  on  and  can  be  used  for  multi-colour  printing  as  well  as  for 
broad  single  colour  stripes.  Contrary  to  the  wooden  machines  the  printing 
rollers  are  here  mounted  on  the  frame  of  the  machine,  whilst  the  guide  rollers 
are  placed  on  the  sledge.  The  upper  printing  roller  is  bigger  than  the  lower 
one  and  is  not  furnished  with  colour.  The  lower  one  rotates  directly  in  the 
colour  box.  In  order  to  enable  several  colours  to  be  printed  at  the  same  time 
the  colour  box  is  divided.  The  upper  roller  has  a  handle  and  the  printing  roller 
moves  by  friction.  The  well-spread  yarn  is  placed  on  the  two  guide  rollers 
mounted  on  the  sledge  and  is  printed  in  4  or  5  times  as  on  the  wooden  machine 
by  moving  the  yarn  each  time  a  corresponding  distance  to  the  breadth  of  the  roller. 


67     — 


Fig.  17. 


Fig.  18. 


c)  Wooden  machines  or  Bohemian  Mangles. 
Single-colour  wooden  printing  machines. 

These  machines  which  are  constructed  entirely  of  wood  are  used  for  printing 
broad  stripes.  The  printing  rollers  are  placed  one  above  the  other  on  a  moveable 
sledge  and  have  felted  furnishers.  The  lower  roller  receives  the  colour  from 
the  colour  box,  whilst  the  upper  one  receives  the  colour  from  an  auxiliary  furnisher 
which  rotates   in   a    colour-box  placed  on  the  same   level  as  the   printing  roller. 

The  rollers  are  made  of  alder-wood  and  are  felted  for  heavy  designs.  For 
fine  designs  the  rollers  are  made  either  of  brass  or  ebonite.  The  forward  and 
backward  movement  of  the  sledge  is  effected  by  cog-wheels  and  a  rack. 


Fig.  19. 


Fig.  20. 


—     68     - 

The  well  spread  yarn  is  placed  on  two  guide  rollers  mounted  on  the  frame 
of  the  machine  and  a  third  roller  is  introduced  to  give  the  yarn  the  necessary 
tension.  The  yarn  is  parallel  to  the  axis  of  the  printing  rollers.  The  yarn  is 
then  spread  out  evenly  once  more  after  which  the  sledge  commences  its  forward 
and  backward  motion.  The  yarn  passes  between  the  printing  rollers  and  with 
each  movement  of  the  sledge  as  much  of  the  yarn  is  printed  as  corresponds 
to  the  breadth  of  the  printing  roller.  The  yarn  is  then  moved  a  corresponding 
distance  forward  by  turning  the  rollers  on  which  it  is  stretched  and  is  completely 
printed  in    1   or  5  times. 

Multi-colour  wooden  printing  machines. 

These  machines  which  are  constructed  on  the  same  principle  as  the  single- 
colour  wooden  printing  machines  have  a  series  of  double  printing  rollers.  The 
colour  boxes  can  be  divided  into  compartments,  this  is  however  not  advantageous, 
as  certain  colours  which  are  subject  to  frothing  are  liable  to  overflow  into  the 
next  compartment.  An  addition  of  oil  to  the  printing  colour  diminishes  the 
frothing. 


Fig.  21. 


2.    MACHINES  FOR  SINGLE  THREADS  AND  WARPS. 


a)  Thread  printing  machines. 

The  printing  of  threads  is  very  similar  to  the  printing  of  warps,  only  it 
requires  less  care,  as  no  regular  designs  are  to  be  obtained  after  weaving  but 
simply  flamme  effects  like  with  hank  printing. 

The  threads  run  from  the  cheeses  through  a  comb  and  are  then  printed. 
After  printing  they  are  wound  on  one  or  two  reels,  and  if  the  machine  is 
sufficiently  broad  the}-  can  be  wound  directly  on  the  beam. 

Fig.  22  illustrates  a  thread  printing  machine  as  made  by  Gebriider 
Donath's  Nachfolger  in  Chemnitz. 


69 


b)  Warp  printing  machines. 

Warps  are  only  then  printed  when  it  is  desired  to  obtain  regular  designs 
after  weaving.  The  warp  is  kept  from  being  disarranged  by  weft  threads  inverted 
at  certain  intervals.     These  are  taken  out  during  the  operation  of  weaving. 

Warp  printing  machines  are  constructed  on  various  principles.  For  carpets 
and  tapestry  materials  the  drum  printing  machine  is  much  used.  In  this  machine 
the  warp  threads  are  evenly  wound  on  a  cloth-covered  drum  and  are  then 
printed  by  a  roller  which  rotates  in  a  colour-box.  In  the  plate  printing  machine 
plates  take  the  place  of  the  drums. 


--o@«>- 


V.  PRINTING  YARNS. 

The    various    operations    connected    with    the    printing    of   yarns    may    be 
divided  into  three  stages. 

1.  Printing. 

2.  Steam  ing. 

3.  Af tertreatment. 


1.  Printing. 

The  printing  of  the  bleached,  dyed  or  sized  yarn  may  be  accomplished 
on  one  or  other  of  the  machines  described  above,  fine  one-colour  patterns  being 
best  produced  on  the  iron-printing  machines,  heavier  designs  on  the  Bohemian 
Mangle  or  multicolour  printing  machines,  and  two  or  more  colours  on  the  iron  or 


—     70     — 

wooden  machines.    After  printing,   the  yarn  should  be  dried  at  a  medium    tem- 
perature,   and   the  colour   ultimately  developed  and  fixed  by  steaming. 

2.  Steaming. 

The  dried  yarn  is  then  divided  into  1  lb  lots  placed  on  sticks,  and 
hung  in  the  steamer.  To  prevent  waterdrops  falling  on  the  yarn  it  should 
be  covered  with  canvas  and  the  steaming  chest  heated  before  the  yarn  is 
placed  in  it.  As  the  steaming  should  be  accomplished  as  quickly  as  possible 
and  should  be  even  and  thorough,  the  yarn  should  not  be  hung  too  closely 
together.  To  remove  the  gases  formed  during  steaming,  the  steaming  apparatus 
should  be  provided  with  outlets  for  their  removal  as  soon  as  formed. 

3.  Methods  of  aftertreatment. 
Printed   yarns,    after   steaming,    require    in   most   cases   an   aftertreatment, 
either  to  fix  the  colouring  matter,    neutralize    the    acids  formed,    do  away  with 
the  superfluous  thickenings,  or  to  clear  the  white.    The  aftertreatment,  therefore, 
may  take  various  forms. 

A.  Fixation  with  Antimony  Compounds. 
This   method   is    employed  when   the  yarn   has   been   printed   with   tannin 
dyestuffs.     The  yarn  is  treated  for   lji  to   '/a  hour   at  86—122°  F.,    in   a   bath 
containing  1  to  5  parts  tartar  emetic  per  1000  parts  of  liquid;  it  is  then  allowed  to 
lie  for  a  short  time  and  finally  well  washed. 

B.  Chalk  Bath. 

When  mordant  dyestuffs  have  been  used  in  printing,  the  free  acids  formed 
during  steaming  must  be  neutralized  and  the  colour  kike  fixed  on  the  yarn  by 
treating  it  for  a  short  time  in  a  warm  bath  containing  6  to  10  parts  of  calcium 
carbonate  per   1000  parts. 

C.  Aftertreatment  with  bichromate  of  potash,  soda,  or  chalk. 

Many  dyestuffs  used  in  printing  require  an  aftertreatment  for  the  proper 
development  of  the  colour.  For  instance,  Aniline  Black  requires  to  be  treated 
with  either  3  to  4  per  cent,  bichromate  of  potash  or  5  per  cent,  soda  or  chalk. 
The  Oxazine  dyestuffs  may  be  developed  with  bichromate  of  potash. 

D.  Soaping. 

Soaping  is  necessary  to  increase  the  brilliancy  of  Alizarine  Reds,  it  also 
brightens  the  mordant  colours  which  have  been  fixed  with  chalk.  The  temperature 
of  the  soap  bath  should  be  regulated  according  to  its  concentration  and  the 
depth  of  the  printed  shade. 


—     71     — 

E.  Malting. 

This  operation  effects  the  removal  from  the  yarn  of  the  starch  thickenings 
which  have  been  used  in  printing  by  converting  the  starch  into  soluble  diastase. 
For  this  purpose  fresh  malt  or  one  or  other  of  the  diastase  containing 
commercial  products  should  be  used.  The  yarn  should  be  treated  for  */*  to  '/j 
hour  in  a  bath  at  86—122°  F.  containing  20  to  50  parts  malt  per  1000  parts 
of  water  (calculated  on  the  weight  of  the  yarn),  and  finally  well  washed. 

F.  Chemicking. 

The  treatment  of  printed  yarns  with  a  weak  chlorine  bath  is  frequently 
necessary  for  the  improvement  of  the  white. 


VI.  METHODS  OF  PRINTING. 

Coloured  effects  are  obtained  either  by  printing  actual  dyestuffs,  by  the 
formation  of  the  colouring  matter  on  the  fibre,  or  by  the  discharging  of  dyed 
yarns.     These  styles  may  be  classified  as  follows: 

1.  Steam-colours. 

2.  Colours  produced  on  the  fibre  by  oxidation. 

3.  Insoluble  azo-colours  produced  on  the  fibre. 

4.  Discharge  Effects. 

1.  Steam  Colours. 

A.  Substantive  or  direct  colours  (Dianil  dyestuffs). 

These  colours  serve  only  for  styles  which  are  not  expected  to  possess 
any  fastness  to  washing.  The  printing  colour  contains  equal  quantities  of 
phosphate  of  soda  and  Turkey  red  oil,  and  half  as  much  glycerine  (calculated 
on  the  amount  of  the  dyestuff  taken).  After  printing,  the  yarn  is  steamed  for 
1^2  hours  with  steam  which  is  not  too  dry.  For  printing  the  Dianil  Colours 
on  the  iron  machine  the  following  recipe  may   be  used: 


31/*  oz 

200  g  Dyestuff 

8  lbs     7       oz 

8450  g  Water 

13       oz 

800  g  Wheat  Starch 

3'/2    oz 

220  g  Phosphate  of  soda 

l3/4    oz 

110  g  Glycerine 

3'/2  oz 

220  g  Turkey  red  oil 

10  lbs 

10  kg 

—     72     — 

B.  Basic  Colours. 

These  dyestuffs,  owing  to  their  comparative  brilliancy  and  fastness  properties, 
find  a  very  large  application.  They  are  fixed  with  tannin  and  tartar  emetic. 
The  printing  paste  contains  the  dyestuff,  the  requisite  amount  of  thickening, 
tannin  and  such  substances  as  act  as  solvents  and  prevent  the  formation  of  the 
colour  lake  and  the  deterioration  of  the  printing  colour.  The  solvents  usually 
employed  in  this  respect  are  acetic,  formic,  lactic,  tartaric,  and  ethyl  tartaric 
acids,  acetine,  and  glycerine.  In  place  of  acetic  acid  the  comparatively  cheaper 
formic  acid  has  lately  found  considerable  use.  Fixed  acids  may  tender  the 
cotton  fibre  during  steaming,  but  ethyl  tartaric  acid,  owing  to  its  slower  and 
much  milder  action,  is  used  with  advantage  and  replaces  them  conveniently. 
Acetine  acts  in  a  similar  way,  as  it  does  not  injure  the  fibre  and  is  a  good 
solvent  for  those  dyestuffs  which  are  insoluble  in  water,  for  instance  certain 
Indulines.  Glycerine  and  acetine,  which  latter  generates  glycerine  in  steaming, 
act  as  most  suitable  hygroscopic  substances. 

Steaming  from  1  to  lx/a  hours  follows  the  printing  operation.  During  the 
steaming  the  formation  of  the  lake  and  the  fixation  of  the  colouring  matter 
within  the  fibres  takes  place.  In  the  succeeding  treatment  with  tartar  emetic 
the  printed  colours  are  made  fast  to  water  and  to  soap;  finally  the  yarns  are 
washed. 

The  basic  dyestuffs  may  be  printed  with  only  slight  alterations,  according 
to  the  following  recipe: 

l1/*   oz       10  g     Dyestuff 

4  oz       25  g     Acetic  Acid  50°'o 
1  '  a  oz       10  g     Acetine 

4  lbs    2 ',4  oz     414  g     Water 

5  lbs  500  g     Thickening  1 

1ji  oz  1  g     Tartaric  acid 

6 '  2  oz       40  g     Acetic  acid  tannin  solution   1  :  1 
10  lbs  1   kg 

The  quantity  of  tannin  necessary  for  the  complete  fixation  of  the  dyestuff 
is  determined  by  experiment.  Small  quantities  give  generally  brighter  shades, 
they  are  however  not  so  fast. 

Methylene  Heliotrope  O  can  only  be  dissolved  with  acetic  acid,  acetine, 
glycerine,  and  tartaric  acid. 

Basic  dyestuffs  are  either  free  colour  bases  or  salts  of  the  latter.  They 
are  mostly  hydrochlorides,  less  frequently  acetates  or  oxalates.  In  many  cases 
they  are  double  compounds  containing  zinc  chloride.  As  the  latter  compound 
is  apt  to  tender  the  cotton  fibre  during  steaming,  it  is  advisable  for  printing 
purposes,  to  use  either  the  isolated  bases  or  the  hydrochlorides  free  from  zinc 
chloride.  These  dyestuffs  are  put  on  the  market  as  "D"brands.  The  colour 
bases  have  to  be  dissolved  with  the  addition  of  organic  acids.  The  following 
are  dyestuff  bases :  Ethyl  Blue  RD,  BD.  New  Ethyl  Blue  R  and  B,  Leather 
Yellow-base  LiG,  O,  and   OB.     These  bases  may  be  printed  as  follows: 


—     73 


I1/* 

oz 

10  g 

Dyestuff  base 

8 

02 

50  g 

Acetic  acid  50°/o 

Vh 

OZ 

10  g 

Acetin 

l/i 

oz 

3  g 

Tartaric  acid 

2'/i 

oz 

15  g 

Glycerine 

5  lbs 

500  g 

Thickening  1 

61/* 

oz 

40  g 

Acetic  acid  tannin  solution  1 : 1 

3  lbs  121/* 

oz 

372  g 

Water. 

10  lbs  1  kg. 

Auramine  should  only  be  dissolved  at  a  low  temperature,  about  122°  F., 
and  the  steaming  operation,  should  be  shortened  in  this  case,  and  carried  out 
without  pressure. 

Vesuvine  and  Chrysoidine  are  not  available  for  printing  as  they  sublimate 
during  steaming.    In  place  of  these  the  Leather  Yellow  bases  are  used  for  browns. 

C.  Mordant  Colours. 

These  colouring  matters  find  extensive  use  in  cotton  yarn  printing  on 
account  of  their  great  fastness.  The  presence  of  metallic  oxides  is  necessary 
for  the  formation  of  the  colour-lake  on  the  fibre.  These  compounds  are  added 
to  the  printing  colour  in  the  form  of  their  acetates  or  formiates.  Upon  steaming, 
the  organic  acids  are  driven  off  and  the  fast  metal  colour-lake  becomes  fixed  on 
the  fibre. 

Mordant  dyestuffs  are  put  on  the  market  mostly  in  the  form  of  a  20  per 
cent  paste. 

The  brilliancy  and  fastness  of  the  printed  effect  is  increased  by  previously 
oiling  the  yarn.  The  oiling  should  consist  of  a  treatment  with  30  to  50  parts. 
Turkey  red  oil  (the  soda  compound)  per  1000  parts  of  water  for  dry  yarns,  and 
with  50  to  70  parts  for  wetted  yarns.  An  oiling  bath  above  this  strength  causes 
yellowish  stains  on  the  white,  which  are  not  readily  removed  after  steaming  either 
by  washing  or  soaping. 

Before  soaping,  a  short  treatment  in  a  chalk  bath  with  5  to  10  parts  calcium 
carbonate  per  1000  parts  of  water  at  86°  F  serves  to  neutralize  the  free  acids. 
Soaping  is  carried  out  in  a  warm  bath  at  68°  F  with  1  per  cent  Olive  oil  soap; 
the  printed  yarn  is  then  washed  in  clear  water  and  again  worked  in  a  soap  bath 
122 — 212°  F  of  the  same  concentration,  and  finally  well  washed. 

When  using  this  class  of  colouring  matters,  it  is  necessary  to  avoid  too 
much  colour  being  transferred  onto  the  yarn,  because  an  excess  of  the  colouring 
matter  is  apt   to  stain   the  white  during   the   processes  of  washing   and    soaping. 

For  printing  yarns    the    following  mordant   dyestuffs    are    principally    used: 

Alizarine  Yellow  5G  powder,  GG  paste,  R  paste,  and  Calico  Yellow  O. 

These  dyestuffs  when  printed  on  unoiled  yarn  with  acetate  of  chrome  give 

yellow    to    yellowish    orange    shades    which    are    distinguished    for    their    fastness 


—     71     — 

properties.     In   combination  with  very  small   quantities  of  Methylene  Blue  DBB, 
Brilliant  Green  etc.,  fast  and  brilliant  greenish  shades  are  obtainable. 

Water  free  from  lime  should  be  used  for  mixing  the  paste  brands  and 
the  powdered  brands  should  be  dissolved  in  boiling  water,  preferably  in  condensed 
water.  The  powder  is  heated  with  water,  the  thickening  added  and  heated  again 
until  a  perfect  solution  of  the  dyestuff  is  effected,  then  the  acetic  acid  is  added. 
The  printing  colour  is  then  allowed  to  cool  and  the  mordants  added. 


Alizarine  5G  Powder. 

5  lbs    8 

oz 

5500  g     Thickening  II 

l1- 

oz 

100  g     Alizarine  Yellow  5G  Powdei 

2  lbs    8 

oz 

3750  g     Water 

2lk 

oz 

150  g     Glycerine 

8 

oz 

500  g     Acetate  of  chrome,  32  °  Tw 

10  lbs 

10  kg. 

A 

lizarine  Yellow  GG  paste. 

- 

oz 

5500  g     Thickening  II 

11 

oz 

700  g     Alizarine  Yellow  GG  paste 

8  lbs    8 

oz 

3250  g     Water 

-'■.■ 

oz 

550  g     Acetate  of  chrome,  32°  Tw 

10  lbs 

10  kg. 

Alizarine  Orange  paste. 

Alizarine  Orange  with  aluminium  mordants  on  oil-prepared  yarn  gives  very 
full  and  fast  Oranges.  On  unoiled  yarn  and  with  chrome  mordants  brown  shades 
are  obtained. 

Alizarine  Orange  with  Alumina. 
5  lbs  8       oz     5500  g     Thickening  III 
lib  1000  g     Alizarine  Orange  paste  20  °o 

6'/2  oz       400  g     Acetic  acid  50  °/o 
1  lb     7'/i  oz     1450  g     Water 

83/4  oz       550  g     Acetate  of  lime,  15  °  Tw 
lib     l*/i   oz     1100  g     Acetate  of  alumina,  IS0  Tw 
10  lbs  10  kg. 

Printed  on  previously  oiled  yarn. 

Alizarine  Orange  with  Chrome. 

5  lbs  8       oz     5500  g     Thickening  II 

1  lb  1000  g     Alizarine  Orange  paste  _ 

6 '  •   oz       400  g     Acetic  acid  50  °'o 

2  lbs  6       oz     2375  g     Water 

1 1 '  2  oz       725  g     Acetate  of  chrome,  32  °  Tw 
10  lbs  10  kg. 


—     75     — 
Alizarine  Red  all  brands  with  the  exception  of  the  S-brands. 

The  yellowish  brands  of  Alizarine  Red,  are  mostly  used  for  the  production 
of  a  fiery  red  with  aluminium-calcium  mordants.  The  1  B  new  and  No.  1  brands 
are  used  with  the  same  mordant  for  blueish  reds  and  pinks,  with  chrome  mordants 
for  browns,  and  with  iron  mordants  for  violet  shades.  The  aluminium -calcium 
lake  requires  to  be  printed  on  oiled  yarn ,  the  addition  of  tin  salts  to  the 
printing  colour  increasing  the  brilliancy  of  the  red. 

Bright  red  shades  may  also  be  obtained  on  unoiled  yarn,  although  in  this 
case  an  addition  to  the  printing  colour  of  50  parts  Para  soap  PN  per  1000  parts 
is  necessary.    The  chrome  and  iron  colour  lakes  are  produced  on  unoiled  yarn. 

Alizarine  Red  with  Alumina. 

6  lbs  6000  g  Thickening  III 

61/-'  oz  400  g  Alizarine  Red  5F  paste  20  °/o 

3^4  oz  200  g  Acetic  acid  50  °/o 

2  lbs     6       oz  2415  g  Water 

5'/i  oz  320  g  Acetate  of  lime,   15°  Tw 

71/*   oz  440  g  Aluminium  acetate,   IS0  Tw 

3s/«  oz  225  g  Oxalate  of  tin,  25°  Tw 

10  lbs  10  kg 

Printed  on  previously  oiled  yarn. 

Alizarine  Red  with  Chrome. 

6  lbs  6000  g  Thickening  II 

9'/2   oz  600  g  Alizarine  No.    1   paste  20  °/0 

2  lbs  12       oz  2750  g  Water 

6x/2  oz  400  g  Acetate  of  Chrome,  32°  Tw 

4       oz  250  g  Acetate  of  Lime,  15°  Tw 

10  lbs  10  kg 


Alizarine  Pink. 

6  lbs  6000  g  Thickening  III 

2       oz  125  g  Alizarine  Red  IB  paste  20  °/o 

3^4  oz  200  g  Acetic  acid  50°/o 

3  lbs    51/*  oz  3330  g  Water 

21/2  oz  160  g  Acetate  of  lime,  15°  Tw 

23/i  oz  185  g  Aluminium  acetate  18°  Tw 


10  lbs  10  kg 

Printed  on  previously  oiled  yarn. 


76 


Alizarine  Lilac. 


4   oz 

3 '  .  oz 

3  lbs 

2't  oz 

4   oz 

2'3  oz 

6  lbs  6000  g  Thickening  II 

250  g  Alizarine  Red  No.  1  paste  20  °/o 
200  g  Acetic  acid  50°/o 
3135  g  Water 
250  g  Acetate  of  lime,  15°  Tw 
165  g  Pyrolignite  of  iron,  52°  Tw 
10  lbs  10  kg 

Alizarine  Claret  R  paste. 

This  dyestuff  gives  fast  claret  shades  with  aluminium  mordants  on  oiled 
and  unoiled  yarn.  With  chrome  mordants  it  gives  lilac  shades.  For  the  pro- 
duction of  fast  browns  it  may  be  used  in  combination  with  Alizarine  Brown, 
Alizarine  Yellow,  and  Alizarine  Orange. 


Alizarine  Claret  R  with  Alumina. 

oz     5500  g  Thickening  III 

1000  g  Alizarine  Claret  R  paste 
250  g  Acetic  acid  50  °/o 
1810  g  Water 
640  g  Acetate  of  lime,   15°  Tw 
800  g  Acetate  of  aluminia,  18°  Tw 
10  lbs  10  ksr 


Alizarine  Claret  with  Chrome. 

5  lbs     8       oz  5500  g  Thickening  II 

1  lb  1000  g  Alizarine  Claret  R  paste 

1  lb     12       oz  2750  g  Water 

12       oz       750  g  Acetate  of  chrome,  32°  Tw 
10  lbs  10  kg 


Alizarine  Brown  Paste. 

The  Alizarine  Browns  are  usually  dissolved  with  the  addition  of  weak  alkalies 
(borax);  they  are  used  for  the  production  of  the  fastest  Browns  especially  when 
printed  with  chrome  mordants.  They  are  printed  on  unoiled  yarn  and  steamed 
for  an  hour  without  pressure. 

Alizarine  Brown  printed  on  oiled  material  with  an  Alumina  Mordant  yields 
shades  of  inferior  fastness  to  those  obtained  with  a  chrome  mordant. 


5  lbs  8 

oz 

1  lb 

4 

oz 

1  lb  13 

oz 

10 

oz 

13 

oz 

77     — 


Alizarine  Brown. 

5  lbs     8       oz  5500  g  Thickening  II 

23ji  oz  170  g  Alizarine  Brown  R  powder 

3  lbs     9       oz  3560  g  Water 

23/i  oz  170  g  Borax 

9^2  oz  600  g  Neutral  chrome  mordant 
10  lbs  10  kg. 


Alizarine  Blue  SB  powder,  SR  paste,  SRX  powder  and  paste. 

Alizarine  blue  should  only  be  dissolved  in  cold  water  and  mixed  with  the 
cold  thickening.  The  printing  colour  must  not  be  kept  too  long,  as  the  chrome 
lakes  of  theix  dyestuffs  are  apt  to  precipitate  out  on  standing  and  uneven  and 
bad  results  are  then  obtained. 

Owing  to  its  fastness,  bright  colour,  and  simple  method  of  application 
alizarine  blue  is  considerably  used.  To  increase  the  brightness  of  the  colour 
the  acetate  and  even  the  sulphate  of  zinc  may  be  used,  and  for  greenish  blues 
acetate  of  nickel,  although  the  fastness  of  these  latter  lakes  is  inferior  to  that 
obtained  with  chrome.  Alizarine  blue  is  printed  on  unoiled  yarn  and  steamed 
for  one  hour  without  pressure. 

Alizarine  Blue. 

5  lbs     8       oz  5500  g  Thickening  II 

5'/i  oz  330  g  Alizarine  Blue  SB  powder 

3  lbs  13 '/a  oz  3840  g  Water 

5'/4  oz       330  g  Acetate  of  chrome,  32°  Tw 
10  lbs  10  kg. 


Alizarine  Green  S.  paste. 

This  dyestuff  should  be  dissolved  in  lukewarm  water  free  from  calcium 
salts.  It  serves  for  the  production  of  fast  greens  and  is  printed  either  on  oiled 
or  unoiled  yarn  and  steamed  for  one  hour  without  pressure. 

Alizarine  Green. 

5  lbs        8  oz     5500  g     Thickening  II 

1  lb  1000  g     Alizarine  Green  S  paste 

7*/a  oz       465  g     Bisulphite  of  chrome,  32°  Tw 
l3/i  oz       115  g     Bisulphite  of  nickel,  32°  Tw 

2  lbs  143,'±  oz     2920  g     Water 

10  lbs  10  kg. 


—     78     — 

Coeruleine  cone,  A  paste,  S  cone,  and  SW  paste. 
The  solution  of  Coeruleine  cone,  and  A  paste  is  effected  by  mixing  the 
colour  in  2'/«  times  the  quantity  of  cold  water  and  !/j  the  quantity  of  bisulphite 
of  soda  66 '/i°  Tw  and  allowing  the  whole  to  stand  for  three  days.  Coerulein 
S  cone.  S  and  SW  paste  must  be  dissolved  in  cold  water  free  from  lime.  The 
colour  is  printed  on  oiled  or  unoiled  yarn  and  steamed  for  one  hour  without 
pressure. 

Coeruleine. 
5  lbs         8  oz     5500  g     Thickening  II 

5  oz       300  g     Coeruleine  S  powder 
3  lbs    7 '/2  oz     3475  g     Water 

1 1 1/'s  oz       725  g     Acetate  of  chrome,  32°  Tw 
10  lbs  10  kg. 


Philochromine  B  and  G  paste. 

Chr omoglauc in e  VM  powder  and  paste,  also  Chromoglaucine  BMJ. 

Powder  and  BMJ  solution. 

Philochromine  and  Chromoglaucine  are  leuco-compounds  of  colouring  matters 
of  the  gallocyanine  series ;  they  are  easily  oxidized  on  exposure  to  air  so  that 
the  vessels  containing  them  should  be  kept  closed  and  the  colours  not  stirred 
up  without  need.  Metals,  especially  copper,  spoil  the  shade  of  these  colouring 
matters ;  it  is  therefore  necessary  to  avoid  the  use  of  copper  vessels  and  utensils 
when  winking  with  these  colours.  The  colour  is  fixed  with  green  acetate  of 
chrome,  and  it  is  advisable  to  add  formic  acid  to  the  printing  colour.  The  goods 
should  be  steamed  as  soon  as  possible  after  printing.  Philochromine  requires 
steaming  for  one  hour  without  pressure,  whereas  for  Chromoglaucine  half  an 
hours  steaming  is  sufficient.  If  the  latter  is  steamed  for  over  an  hour  with  pressure, 
the  shade  becomes  redder. 

As  these  colouring  matters  is  are  very  sensitive  to  sulphurous  acid  and 
chlorine  before  their  chrome  lakes  are  formed  they  must  not  be  steamed  along 
with  steam  aniline  black  or  bisulphite  colours. 

In  order  to  oxidize  the  colour  thoroughly,  the  printed  yarn  ought  to  be 
left  to  lie  for  some  time;  a  passage  through  a  weak  chrome  bath  after  steaming 
also  hastens  the  process  of  oxidation.     Finally  the  yarn  is  washed  and  soaped. 

On  account  of  their  very  bright  shades  and  good  fastness,  Philochromine  B 
and  G  are  used  for  bright  and  medium  blues. 

Chromoglaucine  VM  and  BMJ  are  used  for  obtaining  fast  dark  shades,  the 
BMJ  brand  gives  shades  similar  to  Indigo,  whilst  the  VM  brand  is  more  violet. 

The  printing  colours  are  prepared  in  a  similar  manner  as  described  for  the 
alizarine  dyestuffs. 


—     79     — 
Philochromine. 

6  lbs  6000  g     Thickening  II 

1  lb  1000  g     Philochromine  B   Paste 

21/*  oz       150  g     Formic  acid  98°/o 

2  lbs    9\!2  oz     2600  g     Water 

4  oz       250  g     Acetate  of  chrome,   32°  Tw 

10  lbs  10  kg. 

Chromoglaucine. 

5  oz       300  g     Chromoglaucine  VM  paste 
1  lb   12 Va  oz     1800  g     Water 

added  to  the  following  cooled  solution : 
6  lbs  6000  g     Thickening  II 

1  lb     3'/4   oz     1200  g     Water 

2'/2   oz       150  g     Formic  acid  98°/o 
83,'4  oz       550  g     Acetate  of  chrome,   32°  Tw 
10  lbs  10  kg. 

The    following    colours    are    printed    in    a    manner    similar    to   the    mordant 
dyestuffs. 

d)  Eosine  and  Acid  Colours. 

This  class  of  colouring  matters  only  finds  application  in  such  cases  where 
brilliancy  but  no  fastness  to  washing  is  required. 

1.  Eosine,  Erythrosine,  Phloxine,  Rose  Bengale  etc. 

2^2  oz       150  g     Eosine 

3  lbs    61/*  oz     3400  g     Water 

6  lbs  6000  g     Thickening  III 

7  oz       450  g     Acetate  of  chrome  32°  Tw 
10  lbs  10  kg. 

The  colour  is  printed  on  oiled  or  unoiled  yarn  and  steamed  for  one  hour 
without  pressure. 

2.  Acid  Dyestuffs. 

2x/a  oz  150  g  Ponceau 

3  lbs    1  lja  oz  3100  g  Water 

6  lbs  6000  g  Thickening  II 

12  oz  750  g  Aluminium  acetate  IS0  Tw 


10  lbs  10  kg 

Printed  on  unoiled  yarn  and  steamed  for  one  hour  without  pressure. 


■2 '  ■   oz 

3  lbs 

1    .    oz 

6  lbs 

21/>    oz 

61/*  oz 

10  lbs 


—  80     — 
3.  Rosazeines. 

150  g  Rosazeine  G 

3300  g  Water 

6000  g  Thickening  III 

150  g  Acetic  acid  50° o 

400  g  Acetate  of  chrome  32°  Tw 


10  kg 


Printed  on  unoiled  yarn  and  steamed  for  one  hour  without  pressure. 


4.    Water  soluble  Rosaniline  Blue  sulphonic-acids. 

2x/s  oz  150  g  Alkali   Blue 

3  lbs  13  \  2  oz  3850  g  Water 

5  lbs    8  oz  5500  g  Thickening  II 

4  oz  250  g  Turkey  red  oil  50°/u 

4  oz  250  g  Bisulphite  of  chrome  32  °  Tw 


10  lbs  10  kg 

All  the  printing  colours  given  on  pages   73  to 
machines. 


are  for  the  Iron  printing 


e)  Thiogene  Colours. 

Of  late  the  Thiogene  Colours  have  been  introduced  for  yarn  printing.  For 
this  purpose  the  „D"  brands  arc  employed.  Thiogene  Cyanine  GD  cone,  and 
OD  cone,  are  printed  as  follows: 

250  l^  Thiogene  Cyanine  GD  cone,  or  OD  cone,  are  dissolved 
by  heating  with 

400  g  Glycerine 

250  g  Caustic  Soda  76°  Tw. 
2850  g  Water  and 

250  g  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone. 

This  solution  is  then  added  to  a  paste  made  from 
l(HH)  g  British  gum  powder 
$200  g  Water 
1800  g  Caustic  Soda  76°  Tw. 

Id  lbs  in  kg 

Thiogene  Black  MD  cone, 

Thiogene  Blue  BD  cone, 

Thiogene  Green  GLD  extra  cone, 

Thiogene  Grey  BD  extra  strong, 

Thiogene  Brown  GCD  cone,  GRD  cone  and  SD  cone 

Thiogene  Violet  BD  extra  strong  are  printed  as   follows: 


4 

oz 

6V2 

oz 

4 

oz 

2  lbs 

13 '/2 

oz 

4 

oz 

1  lb 

3  lbs 

31;.! 

oz 

1   lb 

u  ■ 

oz 

—    81     — 


Are  printed  as  follours 
4       oz — 1  lbs 


oz— 2 

lbs 

1U 

oz 

oz — 4 

oz 

1 

lb 

3 

lbs 

31/! 

oz 

1 

lb     123/4 

oz 

250—1000  g  Dyestuff  are   dissolved  by  heating 
with 
400  g  Glycerine 
300  g  Caustic  Soda  76°  Tw. 
2950—2050  g  Water 
100 —  250  g  Hydrosulphite  cone,  powder 

This  solution  is  then  added  to  a 
paste  made  from 
1000  g  Britishgum  powder 
3200  g  Water 

1800  g  Caustic  Soda  76°  Tw. 
10  kg. 
After    printing   the  yarn    is   dried    and   steamed    for  10 — 20  minutes    in  an 
atmosphere    as    free    from    air   as    possible.     After  steaming    the  yarn   is  washed 
and  soaped  at  the  boil. 

The  blacks,  blues,  cyanines,  greys  and  browns  are  improved  by  passing  them 
through  an  acidulated  bichrome  or  sulphate  of  copper  bath  before  washing. 

2.  Colours  produced  on  the  Fibre  by  Oxidation. 

Many  aromatic  bases  are  transformed  by  oxidation  with  chlorates  into 
insoluble  coloured  compounds  possessing  great  fastness.  The  most  important 
of  these  colouring  matters  are  Aniline  Black  and  Diphenyl  Black,  the  former  of 
which,  on  account  of  its  depth,  fastness,  and  cheapness,  finds  considerable  use. 
On  account  of  its  high  degree  of  fastness  to  light  and  washing,  it  has  largely 
replaced  logwood  black  and  in  many  instances  shows  advantages  over  the  latter 
in  spite  of  its  liability  to  turn  green,  to  tender  the  fibre  and  its  sensitiveness 
towards  chlorine. 

Aniline  Black  is  used  for  direct  printing  and  for  resist  styles.  It  is  either 
developed  by  hanging  in  the  oxidation  room  (Aniline  Oxidation  Black)  or  by 
steaming  for  a  short  time  (Steam  Aniline  Black). 

1.  Aniline  Oxidation-Black. 

Either  of  the  following  colours  may  be  used: 

Sulphide  of  copper  Black. 

2  lbs  2000  g  Gum  Tragacanth  (60 :  1000) 

3  lbs   141/*  oz  3910  g  Water 

15       oz  930  g  Aniline  Salt 

XJ2  oz  35  g  Aniline  Oil 

33/i  oz       (     235  g  Chlorate  of  Soda 
1   lb       8       oz       (   1500  g  Water 

Before  use  add : 
1j-2  oz  30  g  Sulphide  of  copper  paste 

1   lb       6       oz  1360  g  Water 

10  lbs  10  kg. 

6  ii 


Sulphide  of  Copper  paste. 
:;       lbs   12       oz  |  3750  g  Sulphate  of  copper 

l'/i   Gall  I        1")   Litres  Water 

3       lbs   14' >  oz  |  3900  g  Sulphide  of  Soda  Cr. 

1  Gall  I       10  Litres  Water. 

These  two  solutions  are  poured  into  20  Liters  (2  Gall)  of  cold  water, 
allowed  to  settle,  washed  by  decantation,  filtered  and  pressed  to  5400  g  (5  lbs 
61/!  oz). 

Vanadium  Black. 

2  lbs  2000  g  Gum  Tragacanth  (60:1000) 
5  lbs    4       oz      5240  g  Water 

8       oz        500  g  Aniline  Oil 

71/*  oz        460  g  Hydrochloric  acid  36°  Tw. 

33/<  oz        235  g  Chlorate  of  Soda 

1  lb      S       oz      1500  g  Water 

Before  use  add 
1       oz  65  g  Ammonium  vanadate  (1:1000) 

10  lbs  10  kg. 

After  printing  the  black  is  developed  by  being  hung  in  the  oxidation  room 
for  24  hours  at  90°  F.  It  is  then  chromed  at  122°  F  in  a  Bichrome  solution 
(5:1000)  washed  and  soaped. 

2.  Steam  Aniline  Black. 

2  lbs  2000  g  Gum  Tragacanth  (60:1000) 
2  lbs   IS1/*  oz      2840  g  Water 

10       oz        625  g  Aniline  Salt 
'/a  oz  35  g  Aniline  Oil 

5'/s  oz        335  g  Yellow  prussiate 
2  lbs  2000  g  Water 

21/j  oz        165  g  Chlorate  of  soda 

2  lbs 2000  g  Water 

10  lbs  10  kg. 

Broad  black  stripes  with  narrow  white  intervals  are  best  produced  by  the 
resist  style.     This  so-called  Prud'homme  Black  is  worked  follows: 

The  boiled  or  half-bleached  yarn  is  impregnated  with  the  following  solution. 


IS1/!    OZ 

[    840  g    Aniline  Salt 

61/*  oz 

400  g     Gum  Tragacanth  (60:1000) 

3  4    oz 

50  g    Aniline  Oil 

V*  Gall 

2200  cc  Water 

8'[i  oz         1 

540  g     Yellow  Prussiate 

V*  Gall      | 

[  2800  cc  Water 

5       oz         | 

800  g    Chlorate  of  soda 

»/«   Gall 

8200  cc  Water 

1   Gall 

10  Litres. 

—     83     — 

For  coloured  resists  it  is  advisable  to  add  2 — 3  parts  of  tannin  per 
1000  parts  of  the  dye-bath. 

After  dyeing  the  yarn  is  evenly  wrung  out  and  dried  at  90  °  F.  It  must 
then  have  only  a  light  green  shade  otherwise  good  resist  effects  will  not  be 
obtained. 

For  white  resists  alkaline  or  reducings  agents  are  employed. 


White  Resist  A. 

2  lbs  2000  g  Gum  Tragacanth  (60:1000) 

5  lbs    9^2   oz.      5600  g  Water 
2  lbs  2000  g  Precipitated  chalk 

6^2  oz        400  g  Soda  ash. 
10  lbs  10  kg. 

If  the  yarn  has  become  too  dark  through  prolonged  drying  or  some 
other  reason  it  is  advisable  to  use  the  following  resist  containing  Hydro- 
sulphite  NF  cone. 

White    Resist  B. 

2  lbs     2000  g  Gum  Tragacanth  (60:1000) 

3  lbs     3000  g  Water 

1  lb       1000  g  Acetate  of  soda 

2  lbs     2000  g  Oxide  of  Zink  1:1 

2  lbs     2000  g  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone.  1 :  10 


10  lbs  10  kg. 
Coloured  resists  are  prepared  as  follows: 

IV2  — 3  oz  100—  200  g  Basic  dyestuff 

3  lbs    3  oz— 3  lbs   2  oz  3200—3100  g  Water 

3  lbs  3000  g  Senegal-gum  1 : 1 

1   lb     8  oz  1500  g  China-clay  1:1 

1  lb     3  oz  1200  g  Acetate  of  Zink 

1   lb  1000  g  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone.   1:10 

10  lbs  10  kg. 

After  printing  the  yarn  is  dried  and  steamed  for  a  few  minutes  and  then 
treated  as  printed  Aniline  Black. 

For  coloured  resists  which  can  not  be  chromed  the  bichrome  is  replaced 
by  silicate  of  soda. 

The  black  produced  from  p-amidodiphenylamine  (Diphenyl  Black),  by  a 
similar  process  of  oxidation,  besides  being  as  fast  as  Aniline  Black  possesses 
the  advantage  of  being  ungreenable.  It  is  not  changed  to  Emeraldine  either 
through  the  influence  of  the  atmosphere,  dilute  acids,  or  the  direct  action  of 
sulphurous    acid,   and    it    has    the    advantage    of   not   tendering  the  fibre,    as  the 


—     84     — 

solution  of  the  Diphenyl  black  base  I  is  effected  only  with  acetic  and  lactic 
acid,  and  the  oxidation  carried  out  without  the  use  of  any  mineral  acids. 

Diphenyl  black  can  be  printed  with  all  steam  colours  and  is  especially 
suitable  for  printing  with  alizarine  red  and  pink  which  are  so  sensitive  towards 
iron.  In  this  case,  when  printed  on  previously  oiled  yarn,  the  resisting  properties 
of  the  oil  prepare  should  be  counteracted  by  adding  to  the  printing  colour 
somewhat  more  aluminium  chloride  than  usual  (about  '25  to  30  parts  per  1000 
parts  of  col 

Although  Diphenyl  black  ba-e  I  is  soluble  in  water  it  is  readily  soluble 
in  acetic  and  lactic  acids  and  acetine. 

The  best  oxidising  compounds  for  Diphenyl  Black  are  the  Chlorates  of 
Soda  and  Alumina.  Copper  Chloride  is  to  be  recommended  as  the  best  carrier 
of  oxygen.  The  printing  colour  should  only  be  mixed  just  before  use  so  as  to 
prevent  the  formation  of  black  in  the  colour  paste  itself. 

After  printing,  the  colour  should  appear  light  grey,  and  after  drying  at 
1'22  — 140°  F  be  developed  into  a  deep  black.  The  fastest  blacks  are  obtained 
by  steaming  the  yarns,  for  about  15  minutes  without  pressure  after  the  colour 
has  almost  thoroughly  been  developed.  To  diminish  the  danger  of  corroding 
the  yarn  by  the  acid  vapours  which  are  driven  off,  a  piece  of  cloth  which  has 
been  soaked  in  ammonia  is  hung  up  in  the  steamer.  Longer  steaming  increases 
its  fastness  to  acids,  and  chroming  enhances  its  appearance. 

Diphenyl   Black  base  is  worked  in  the  following  manner: 

The  yarn  for  printing  should  be  thoroughly  dried  and  for  designs  which 
do  not  give  sharp  prints  the  yarn  should  be  warmed  just  before  printing. 
A  preliminary  passage  through  1  part  of  ammonia  to  1000  parts  of  water  is 
beneficial,  the  yarn  being  allowed  to  lie  in  the  bath  for  two  hours  after  which 
it  is  washed  at  104°  F.  Sizing  the  yarn  with  2  lbs  wheat  starch  and  1  lb  dextrin 
to  20  gallons  of  water  prevents  the  colour  from  running  and  bleeding.  After  the 
colour  has  been  printed  the  yarn  should  be  hung  in  a  warm  drying  chamber 
until  the  black  is  thoroughly  developed,  the  usual  period  being  overnight. 

A  final  washing  is  not  necessary,  although  soaping  and  washing  may  follow 
without  deteriorating  the  shade. 

Diphenyl  Black  Base  I. 

1.  For  single-colours  on  Iron  Machines. 

Standard  Colour  A. 

5  oz  I  300  g  Diphenyl  Black  Base  I  are  dissolved  in 

13    i  oz      850  g  Acetic  acid  50%  and 

oz  |  400  g  Lactic  acid  50"o  and  are  then  added  to: 

2  lbs   6 1/«  oz  2400  g  Thickening  IV  and 

1  lb  1000  g  Gum  Tragacanth  (60  to  100  parts  per  1000) 


Standard  Colour  B. 
To  2  lbs  6Va  oz     2400  g     Thickening  IV  and 

1  lb  100°  §     Gum  tragacanth  (60  to  100  parts  per  1000)  are  added 

23li  oz       175  g     Aluminium  chloride  52°  Tw 
7»   oz         28  g     Copper  chloride  76°  Tw  and  the  cooled  solution  of 
4  oz  \    250  g     Chlorate  of  soda  in 
1  'b  [  1000  g     hot  water. 

These    two    standard    colours    B    and    A   are    mixed 
together  just  before   use,    and  are  made  up   to 


10  lbs  10  kos  and  strained. 

2.  For  multicolours  on  Iron  Machines. 
Standard  Colour  A. 

5       oz       300  g  Diphenyl  Black  base  I  are   dissolved    by   heating  with 
133/i  oz       850  g  Acetic  acid  50°/o  and 

672  oz       400  g  Lactic  acid  50°/o.    The  whole  cooled  and  added  to  the 
mixture  of 

1  Ib  100°  g  Gum  tragacanth  (60  to  100  parts  per  1000)  and 

2  lbs      71/!  oz     2450  g  cold  water. 

Standard  Colour  B. 

23/i  oz  175  g  Aluminium  chloride  52°  Tw 

Vs  oz  28  g  Copper  chloride  76°  Tw  are  dissolved  in 

2  lbs      83/4  oz  2547  g  cold  water  and 

1  lb  1Q00  g  Gum  tragacanth  (60  to  100  parts  per  1000)  to  which  is 
added  the  cooled  solution  of 

4  oz  250  g  Chlorate  of  soda  in 
1   lb  1000  g  water. 

10  kg. 

The  two  standard  colours  are  mixed  together  before  use. 

3.  For  Wooden  Machines. 

Standard  Colour  A. 

5  oz       300  g  Diphenyl  Black  base   1  arc  dissolved  in 
133/i  oz       850  g  Acetic  acid  50%   and 

61/*   oz       400  g  Lactic  acid  50°/o   and   are    then  added    to    the    cooled 

paste  made  from 
5       oz       300  g  Wheat  Starch  or  Dextrine  boiled  with 
3  lbs      8       oz     3500  g  water. 


—     86     — 

Standard  Colour  B. 

oz        17.j  g  Aluminium  chloride  52°  Tw. 
2       oz         28  g  Copper  chloride  76°  Tw  and 
3  lbs      31/*  oz     3197  g  cold    water.      To    this    solution    is     then    added    the 
cooled  solution  of 
4       oz       250  g  Chlorate  of  soda  in 
1  lb  1000  g  water. 


10  lbs  10  kg. 

The    two    standard    colours    are    mixed    together   just 
before  use. 
If  the  starch  thickening  used  is  liable  to  make  the  colour  bleed,  it  should 
be  replaced    by  a  solution   of  Senegal  gum  1:1.     For    heavy    designs    only    the 
lower  colour-box  is  used  and  it  is  advisable  to  work  with  doctors. 

3.  Insoluble  Azo  Colours  produced  on  the  Fibre. 

Of  this  class  of  colouring  matters  those  mostly  used  are  Azophor  Orange 
MX,  Azophor  Pink  A,  Azo  Pink  BB,  Paranitraniline  Red,  Azophor  Red  PN, 
Alphanaphthylamine  Claret,  Azophor  Blue  D,  Azophor  Black  S  and  DP.  The 
Azophor  colours  owing  to  their  being  stable  are  particularly  useful  for  the 
printing  of  yarns. 

Printing  colours  with  Alphanaphtylamine  salt  S,  should  only  be  mixed  in 
small  quantities  and  used  as  quickly  as  possible.  The  diazotising  should  be 
effected  with  the  cooled  and  thickened  standard  colour  paste. 

A  slight  addition  of  Gum  tragacanth  thickening  or  starch  to  the  naphthol 
prepare  improves  the  sharpness  and  clearness  of  the  printed  effects. 

The  methods  of  preparing  are  the  same  as  described  for  yarn  dyeing  on 
page  231   Volume   1. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  pure  white  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  freshly  prepared 
and  clear  naphthol  solution.  Vessels  and  utensils,  which  are  used  for  dyeing, 
ought  to  be  avoided,  as  they  are  liable  to  produce  a  reddish  tinge  upon  the 
white.  Moreover  the  liability  of  the  naphtol  prepare  to  turn  brown  by  exposure 
to  the  air  should  be  averted  by  the  addition  of  an  alkaline  solution  of  antimony 
oxide  containing  glycerine.  The  addition  of  Glukose  improves  the  white  on 
washing  and  soaping. 

Azo  Colours  for  Yarn   Printing. 
1.  Azophor  Red. 
Naphthol  Prepare  for  yellowish  red. 
4  oz  250  g    |ff-Naphthol 

400  cc  Caustic  Soda  36°  Tw 
9—12  oz       600—750  g    Turkey  Red  Oil 
1   Gallon  10  Litres. 


—     S7 


Naphthoic  Prepare  for  blueish  red. 

4  oz  250  g     (J-Naphtol  R 

3  oz  400  cc  Caustic  Soda  36°  Tw 

9—12  oz       600—750  g    Turkey  Red  Oil 

1  Gallon  10  Litres. 


Printing  Colour: 

13  oz       800  g  Azophor  Red  PN  are  dissolved  in 

2  lbs      8  oz     2500  g  cold  water,    left  to  stand    for   lfa  hour,    filtered,    and  the 
filtered  liquid  slowly  mixed  with 

7  oz       425  g  Caustic  soda  36  °  Tw,  and  diluted  with 

1   lb  1 000  g  cold  water ;  then  neutralized  and  again  diluted  with  water  to 

5  lbs  5  kg.     This  solution  is  then  mixed  with 

5  lbs  5  kg  Thickening  II. 

10  lbs  10  kg 


2.  a-Naph thylamine  Claret. 
Naphthol  Prepare. 

4  oz         260  g    /?-Naphtol 

400  cc  Caustic  Soda  36°  Tw 
8  oz         500  g     Gum  Tragacanth  (60:1000) 
1   Gallon    10  Litres. 


Printing  Colour: 

6       oz  385  g  a-Naphthylamine  salt  S  powder  are  made  into  a  paste  with 

2  lbs    8       oz  2500  g  water,  to  which  are  added 

3'/i  oz  200  g  Sulphuric  acid  169°  Tw,  and 

1  lb  1000  g  ice.     Then  a  solution  of 

2x/2  oz  150  g  Nitrite,  dissolved  in 

l/a  lb  500  g  cold  water  is  slowly  added  at.  41  °  F,  then  made  up  to 

5  lbs  5  kg,  and  filtered 

3  lbs  3  kg  of  this  Diazo  solution  are  mixed  with 

6  lbs  6  kg  Thickening  II,  after  which  a  solution  of 

61,,2   oz  400  g  Sodium  acetate  in 

9^2  oz  600  g  water  is  slowly  added. 

10  lbs  10  kg 


3.  Azophor   Orange. 

Naphthol  Prepare  as  for  Azophor  Red  PN. 

Printing  Colour: 

13  oz       800  g  Azophor  Orange  MN  are  dissolved  in 
2  lbs    13  oz     2800  g  cold  water,    left  to  stand  for   '>  hour,    filtered,   and    the 
filtered  liquid  slowly  mixed  with 
7  oz       42(5  g  Caustic  soda  36°  Tw,  and  diluted  with 
13  oz       800  g  water,  then  neutralized,  and  made  up  to 


5  [bs  5  kg.     This  solution  is  then  mixed  with 

5  lbs  5  kg  Thickening  II. 


10  lbs  10  kg 

4.  Azophor  Pink  A. 

Naphthol  Prepare: 

I     l1,.  oz       100  g  iff-Naphthol 
1  gall.  !  1   nog     300  cc  caustic  soda  26°  Tw 

J     21/2  oz        150  g  Para  soap  PN 
10  Litres. 

Printing  Colour: 

31/*  oz       200  g  Azophor  Pink  A  are  dissolved  in 
4  lbs  4000  g  cold  water,   left    to  stand   for    '/a    hour,    filtered,    and 

the  filtered  liquid  mixed  with 
•"1 '  1   oz       320  g  Acetic  acid  50°/o ;  then  diluted  with  water  to 
5  kg  to  which  are  added 
4  kg  Thickening  II  and 
150  g  Sodium  acetate,  dissolved  in 
350  g  water,  and 
500  g  Gum  Tragacanth  (60:1000) 


5  lbs 

4  lbs 

21;-  oz 

5'/2  oz 

>,  lb 

10  lbs.  10  kg. 

5.  Azophor  Blue. 
Naphthol  Prepare. 

4  oz        260  g     ^-Naphthol 

l5/8  nog     500  cc  Caustic  Soda  36°  Tw 
1  lb  1000  g     Turkey  Red  Oil  50°/o 

1  Gallon  10  Liters. 


-     89     — 

Printing  Colour:  • 

23ji  oz       180  g  Azophor  Blue  D,  dissolved  in 

3  lbs  3000  g  cold  water,  filtered  and  diluted  to 

3500  g.  This  solution  is  mixed  with 

5000  g  Thickening  II,  to  which  are  added 

350  g  Copper  chloride  77°  Tw,  and 

20  g  Chromic  acid,  dissolved  in 

1130  g  water. 


3  ^2  lbs 

5  lbs 

5*/i  oz 

3/s   oz 

1  lbs 

2  oz 

10  lbs.  10  kg. 

6.  Azophor  Black  DP. 
Naphthol  Prepare: 

4  oz       250  g  ft- Naphthol 

8  oz       500  g  Caustic  soda  36°  Tw 

1   lbs 1000  g  Gum  Tragacanth  (60  :   1000) 

1  Gallon  10  Litres. 

Printing  Colour: 

1  lbs  1000  g  Azophor  Black  DP  dissolved  in 

3  lbs     G1^  oz  3400  g  water, 

5  lbs  5000  g  Thickening  II 

9*/s   oz  600  g    Sodium  acetate. 


10  lbs.  10  kg. 

In  printing  with  insoluble  Azo  Colours,    only    a   slight    pressure    should  be 
applied.     The  goods  must  be  well  dried,  washed  and  soaped  hot. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  good  white,  the  goods  are  chemicked  slightly  afterwards. 


4.  Discharge  Effects. 

By  means  of  discharge  printing  effects  are  obtained  which  cannot  be 
produced  by  other  methods.  Generally,  one  or  more  colours  are  to  be  printed 
upon  a  coloured  ground,  and  it  is  essential  that  no  white  rims  are  formed, 
nor  must  the  printed  colour  be  soiled  by  the  dyed  ground.  Also  in  cases 
where  broad  coloured  stripes  are  to  alternate  with  white  stripes,  discharge  printing 
is   preferable   to  direct  printing,    as  it   obviates    their  running    into    one  another. 

In  yarn  printing,  both  as  regards  white  and  coloured  discharges,  only 
reducing  discharges  need  be  considered,  because  oxidising  discharges  are  liable 
to  tender  the  fibre. 

6a  ii 


—    90     — 

a)  Discharge  Effects  upon  Dianil  Dyestuffs. 

a    H ydrosulphite  Discharges. 

This  process  is  used  both  for  white  and  coloured  discharges,  because  the 
Dianil  dyestuffs,  with  few  exceptions,  e.  g.  Dianil  Yellow  and  Oxydianil  Yellow, 
are  destroyed  by  Hydrosulphite. 

For  white  discharges  a  solution  of  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone,  in  tragacanth 
(60  in  1000)  is  most  suitable.  The  quantity  of  the  discharging  agent  depends  on  the 
depth  of  the  colour  to  be  discharged  and  on  the  quantity  of  the  discharging 
colour  applied.  In  order  to  avoid  the  bleeding  of  the  white  in  washing  after 
steaming  it  is  necessary  after  dyeing  (eventually  alter  printing  and  steaming)  to 
aftertreat  the  yarn  with   1 — 2°/o   solidogen. 

The  following  recipe   for  white  discharges    is    suitable    for  printing  on    the 
iron  machine: 
1    ■    -3  oz     100 — 200  g  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone,  are  dissolved  in 

5  oz  300  g  Gum  tragacanth  (60  in  1000)  and 

61/8—5  oz     400—300  g  water  at  a  temperature  of   104— 122°  F,  to   this   are 
added 

3  oz 200  g  Zinc  white   1:1. 

1    lbs  1    kg. 

In  order  to  obtain  coloured  discharges  certain  dyestuffs  may  be  added  to 
the  Hydrosulphite  White  Discharge  which  resist  the  strongly  reducing  action  of 
the  hydrosulphite.     Such  colours  are : 

Basic  Colours:  Auramine  O  cone,  Methylene  Yellow  H,  Flavophosphine 
4G  cone,  new,  GG  cone,  new.,  G  cone,  new,  R  cone,  new,  Leather  Yellow  O, 
Rosazeine  4G  extra,  Thionine  Blue  GO,  Methylene  Blue  DBB,  Discharge  Navy 
Blue  S  extra  cone. 

Mordant  Colours  (Oxazine  colours):    Chromoglaucine  VM  powder  and 
paste,   Chromoglaucine  BMJ   powder    and    liquid,   Philochromine  B  and  G   paste. 
Direct  Colours  Oxydianil  Yellow,  Primuline  and  Dianil  Pure  Yellow  HS. 
Also  Indigo. 

In  using  basic  colours  for  Hydrosulphite  Coloured  Discharges  the  tannin 
necessary  for  fixing  the  colours  is  added  direct  to  the  discharge  colour.  For 
dissolving  the  dyestuffs  neither  acetic  acid  nor  other  acids  may  be  used,  as  they 
destroy  the  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone.  For  that  reason  in  order  to  avoid  lake 
formation  Phenol,  Acetine  or  Glycerine  are  added  to  the  printing  colours. 

In  order  to  fix  the  colours  well,  and  at  the  same  time  to  obtain  the  full 
discharge  action,  it  is  necessary  to  steam  for  a  sufficiently  long  time.  The  steamed 
yarn  is  left  to  lie  until  the  reduced  colours  are  developed,  and  is  afterwards 
treated  with  Tartar  emetic.  The  subsequent  washing  and  soaping  serves  to 
develop  the  coloured  discharges  and  to  remove  the  superfluous  unfixed  dyestuff. 


—     91     — 

Coloured  Discharges  for  the  Multi-colour  Printing  Machine. 
Discharge  Blue  A. 
5  oz  300  g  Discharge  Navy  Blue  S  extra  cone, 

dissolved  in 
1j-2  lbs  500  g  Glycerine 

1 1,2   oz  100  g  Acetine  and 

4000—3000  g  water 

1500  g  Thickening  II 
9^2  oz  600  g  Phenol 

1000  g  Tannin  solution  (1 : 1  with  water) 
2000—3000  g  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone,  1  :  1. 


4- 

-3 

lbs 

1 

'/* 

lbs 

1 

lbs 

2- 

-3 

lbs 

10  lbs.  10  kg. 

Discharge  Blue  B. 

3x/4  oz  200  g  Thionine  Blue  GO  dissolved  in 

'/a   lbs  500  g  Glycerine 

1  lji  oz  100  g  Acetine  and 

4x/4  lbs— 31/*  lbs  4300—3300  g  water 

l1/-'  lbs  1500  g  Thickening  II 

9'/2  oz  600  g  Phenol 

13  oz  800  g  Tannin  solution  (1 : 1  water) 

2—3  lbs 2000—3000  g  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone.   1:1. 

10  lbs.  10  kg. 

Discharge  Blue  C. 

6'/2  oz       400  g  Chromoglaucine  VM  paste  are  made  into  a  paste  with 

4  lbs     9^2  oz     4600  g  water,  and  mixed  into 

2  lbs  2000  g  Thickening  II 

1j-2   lb  500  g  Green  acetate  of  chrome  33°  Tw  and 

2  72  lbs  2500  g  Hydrosulphite  NF,  cone.  1:1,  being  added. 

10  lbs.  10  kg. 

Discharge  Yellow  A. 

3'/<t  oz       200  g  Auramine  cone. 

Recipe  as  for  Discharge  Blue  B. 

Discharge  Green. 

3  parts  Discharge  Yellow  A 
1  part  Discharge  Blue  B. 
For   the   single  colour  iron  machine   the   printing  colour  must  be  prepared 
rather  thicker. 


—     92     — 

The  yarns  printed  with  Hydrosulphite  white  or  coloured  discharges  are 
steamed  for  '/»  hour  under  pressure  of  r/i  atm. ;  if  necessary,  passed  through 
Tartar  emetic,  then  washed  and  soaped. 

/J.  Tin  Salt  Discharges. 

The  Tin  salt  discharges  have  lost  in  importance  since  the  introduction 
of  the  Hydrosulphite  discharges,  owing  to  the  latter  method  being  safer  and  avoid- 
in-  .1  tendering  of  the  fibre.  The  following  Dianil  Colours  are  discharged  to 
a  pure  white : 

Cresotine  Yellow  G,  Aurophenine,  Dianil  Orange  N,  Dianil  Red  4B,  R,  10  B, 
Brilliant  Dianil  Red  R,  Dianil  Claret  G,  B,  Dianil  Brown  3  GO,  2G,  BD,  Dianil 
Blue  2R,  R,  B,  G,  Dianil  Darkblue  R,  Dianil  Black  PR,  G.  For  Coloured 
discharges:  all  the  Dianil  Colours,  except  the  Dianil  Yellow  and  Oxydianil 
Yellow  brands  can  be  used. 

The  bleached  cotton  yarn  is  dyed  in  the  usual  manner  with  Dianil  Colours. 
For  basic  coloured  discharges  the  yarn  is  prepared  in  tannin  and  fixed  with 
tartar  emetic.     It  is  then  washed,  dried  and  printed. 

White  Discharge  for  the  Multi-colour  Printing  Machine. 

1  l/j  lbs  1500  g  Gum  tragacanth  (60  :  1000) 

2  lbs    91/*  oz     2600  g  water 

5 '  a  lbs  5500  g  Acetate  of  tin  33  °  Tw 

6 '  i   <>z  100  g  citric  acid. 

10  lbs  10  kg 

Coloured  Discharge  for  the  Multi-colour  Printing  Machine. 

200  g  Basic  dyestuff 

200  g  Acetic  acid  50°/o 
3300  g  water 
2000  g  Thickening  IV 

300  g  Tartaric  acid 
1000  g  Acetic  acid  tannin  solution  1 :  1 
3000  g  Standard  White. 
10  lbs  10  kg 

Standard  White. 
368  g  Acetate  of  tin  33°  Tw 
148  g  British  Gum  powder 

74  g  Gum  solution   1  :  1 

37  g  Citric  acid 

40  g  Water.     Boil  for  ten  minutes,  then  add 
222  g  Tin  salt,   stir  for  o  minutes;  after  cooling  add 

37  g  Sodium  acetate  crystals 

74  g  Water. 
1  ke 


3\'. 

I  oz 

3V< 

I  oz 

3  lbs 

5 

oz 

2  lbs 

5 

oz 

1  lbs 

3  lbs 

6 

oz 

2</i 

oz 

Vk 

oz 

s/* 

oz 

. 

oz 

:;', 

oz 

« 

oz 

l'> 

oz 

21/a 

oz 

3/s 

oz 

I1/* 

oz 

9'|2 

oz 

6 

lbs 

1 

lb 

2 

lbs 

1 

oz 

1 

oz 

—     93     — 

The  printed  yarn  is  well  dried,  steamed  for  10 — 15  minutes  without  pressure, 
and  aftertreated  with  Solidogen.  For  Coloured  discharges  the  yarn  is  passed 
through  a  tartar  emetic  bath  and  finally  washed. 

If  the  yarn  has  been  prepared  in  tannin  and  treated  with  Tartar  emetic 
before  printing,  the  following  recipe  is  used,  e.  g.  Red  upon  Dianil  Blue  on  the 
wooden  printing  machine. 

Red  Discharge  Colour. 

145  g  Safranine  GGS 
15  g  Auramine  O 
100  g  Rosazeine  4G 
600  %  Acetic  acid  50 "o 
6000  g  Water 

1000  g  Gum  tragacanth  (60  in  1000) 
2000  g  Acetate  of  tin  33°  Tw 
70  g  Tin  salt 
70  g  Sodium  acetate 
10  lbs  10  kg. 

After  printing  the  yarn  is  steamed  for  x/2  —  1  hour,  then  washed  with  cold  water. 
As    additions    to   the    coloured    discharges    the    following    may     be    used : 
Auramine,    Flavophosphine,  Phosphine,  Leather  Yellow,  Rosazeine  4G,  Safranine, 
Magenta,  Methyl  Violet,  Methylene  Heliotrope,  Navy  Blue,  Victoria  Blue,  Methylene 
Blue,  Ethyl  Blue,  Brilliant  Green,  Malachite  Green,  Methylene  Grey. 

b)  Discharge  Effects  with  Basic  Colours. 

These  are  produced  by  discharging  the  tannin  ground  by  means 
of  strong  alkaline  thickenings,  and  subsequent  dyeing  with  basic  colours.  This 
method  is  employed  for  narrow  white  effects  on  coloured  grounds,  because 
direct  printing  easily  causes  the  colours  to  run  into  the  white. 

By  printing  strong  alkalies  and  subsequent  steaming  the  tannin-antimony 
lake  is  quantitatively  destroyed  on  the  fibre.  If  the  yarn  is  then  dyed  with 
basic  colours  (with  the  exception  of  Janus  Colours),  white  designs  on  coloured 
grounds  are  obtained. 

Bleached  cotton  yarn  is  impregnated  with  tannin,  and  fixed  with  Tartar 
emetic,  then  washed,  dried  and  printed  with  the  White  discharge  colour : 

White  Discharge  for  the  Iron  Printing  Machine: 
1   lb         3  oz     1200  g  Dextrine 

1  lb         3  oz     1200  g  Water 

2  lbs  2000  g  Bisulphite  66°  Tw 

4  lbs  4000  g  Caustic  Soda  76°Tw 

1   lb       10  oz     1600  g  China  Clay  1  : 1 
10  lbs  10  kg. 


—     94       — 

This  White  Discharge  can  also  be  used  for  the  wooden  printing  machine, 
in  which  case,  however,  it  is  necessary  to  use  doctors. 

Where  weaker  tannin  solutions  are  used,  the  Discharge  colour  must  be 
reduced. 

After  printing  the  yarn  is  well  dried,  steamed  for  ten  minutes  without 
pressure,  with  as  dry  steam  as  possible,  and  passed  for  a  short  time  through 
diluted  sulphuric  acid,  then  well  washed,  and  soaped  for  5  minutes  at.  113°  F. 
It  is  dyed  in  a  weak  bath  with  the  addition  of  2  lbs  tartar  emetic  and  2  lbs 
alum  for  every  100  lbs  yarn.  After  dyeing  it  is  well  washed,  soaped  and,  if 
necessary,  chemicked. 

c)  Discharges  of  Insoluble  Azo  Colours  Produced  on  the  Fibre. 

For  these  only  Hydrosulphite  discharges  are  employed ;  for  Paranitraline  Red 
the  same  recipes  can  be  used  as  for  Dianil  Colours,  but  if  necessary,  a  larger 
quantity  of  Hydrosulphite  is  added.  For  Naphthylamine  Claret  the  following 
altered  recipes  are  applicable: 

White   Discharge   for   Naphthylamine   Claret    on    the 
[ron  Machine: 

3  lbs  3000  g  Hydrosulphite  thickening  NFJ, 

2  lbs  2000  g  Water 

2  lbs  2000  g  China  Clay  1:1, 

J    i  i  z        150  g  Methylene  Blue  DBB,  1:100, 

are  heated  until  the  reduction  of  the  Methylene  Blue  is 
complete,  then  mixed  into 
2  lhs   l::1  j  <>/.     2N.-.0  g  Gum  solution,   1:1. 
10  lbs.  10  k. 

Coloured  Discharge  fur  Naphthylamine  Claret  on  the 
Iron  Machine. 

:!'ioz       200  g  Basic  dye-tuff. 

61/*  oz        400  g   Water. 

8      oz       500  g  Glycerine, 

3  lbs  11      oz  3700  g  Thickening  II. 

1  lb  1000  -    China  Clay   1  :1 

31  i  oz       200  g  Ethyl  Tartaric  acid  22"  T\v„ 

8      oz       500  g  Ale  .hoi. 

1  lb  1000  g  Tannin  solution  1 1  :  1  with  water) 

8      oz       fiOO  g  Sodium  Turkey  red  oil  50 

2  lbs  2000  g  Hydrosulphite  thickening  NFJ. 

10  lbs.  10  k, 


—     95     — 

Hydro  sulphite  Thickening  NFJ. 

8       oz  500  g  Hydrosulphite  NF,  cone,  are  dissolved  with 

llU  oz  450  g  Gum  solution  (1:1)  and 

V*  dr  1  g  Induline  Scarlet  in 

3M  oz  49  g  Water;    the  whole    heated    to    about  122— 140°  F  until  the 

Hydrosulphite  NF   cone,    is    dissolved    and    the    Induline 

Scarlet  is  perfectly  reduced. 

1  lb.  1  k. 

Naphthylamine  Claret  can  also  be  discharged  with  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone, 
and  Anthraquinone. 

White  discharge  NFA. 
1  lb— 1  lb     8       oz     1000—1500  g  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone. 
4  lbs  11  oz— 4  lbs  3*2  oz     4800—4300  g  Water 

1  lbs  8       oz  1500  g  Gum   Tragacanth   (60:1000) 

2  lbs  2000  g  China  Clay   1 :  1 

3 ^2  oz  200  g  Caustic  Soda  76°  Tw 

8       oz  500  g  Anthraquinone  in  paste 

10  lbs  10  kg. 

Coloured  discharge  NFA. 

3       oz     200  g  Basic  dyestuff 
1  lb     13       oz  1800  g  Water 
3  lbs     8       oz  3350  g  Thickening 
5       oz     300  g  Glycerine 
1        oz     100  g  Acetine 
1  lb  1000  g  China  Clay  1:1 

250  g  Alcohol 
800  g  Phenol 

750  g  Hydrosulphite   NF   cone. 
750  g  Gum  solution   1:1 
500  g  Anthraquinone  in  paste 
10  lbs  10  kg. 

We  have  recently  put  on  the  market  a  new  product  under  the  name  of 
Hydrosulphite  NF  cone,  special,  by  which  a  pure  white  discharge  can  be, 
effected  upon  Naphthylamine  Claret  without  any  further  additions.  Paranitraniline 
and  Dianil  Colours  can  also  be  discharged  by  this  new  product. 

After  printing  the  yarn  is  steamed  for  '/« —  3/4  hour,  and  for  the  coloured 
discharges  is  passed  through  a  Tartar  emetic  bath,  then  washed  and  soaped. 
White  discharges  on  Naphthylamine  Claret  and  Para  Red  are  chemicked  after 
soaping  in  order  to  obtain  a  perfectly  pure  white. 

The  discharge  colours  for  the  multi-colour  printing  machines  must  be  thinner. 


4 

oz 

13 

oz 

12  Vi 

oz 

121/! 

oz 

8 

oz 

96 


VII.  LINEN  YARN  PRINTING. 

In  order  to  prevent  the  colours  from  running,  the  bleached  linen  yarn  is 
steeped  in  a  thin  solution  of  starch  to  which  alum  has  been  added,  and  then 
well  dried. 

The  material  so  prepared  is  then  printed  alter  the  same  methods  as 
cotton   yarns. 

The  patterns  en  page  101,  illustrating  various  printing  effects,  have  been 
produced  according  t<>  recipes  given  on  pages  97—100. 


—     97     — 
PRINTED   YARNS. 


^  *  » 


'mum 

town** 


k 


(t&mi<1$ 


16 


17 


19 


20 


'* 


m&jrim&M 


7  ii 


—     98     — 
Recipes  for  the  Patterns  on  page   97. 

1.  L> 


Alizarine  Yellow  GG  paste. 

5'/t  lbs  55('0  g  thickening  n 

11  oz  700  g  Alizarine   Yellow  GG  paste 

3       Mis  5  oz  3250  g  water 

6  oz  550  g  acetate  of  chrome  32°Tw., 


10  lbs 


10  kg 


Alizarine  Orange  with  Alumina. 


5500  g  thickening   III 

1        lb  1000  g  Alizarine  Orange  N  paste 

20% 

6'/!  oz      400  g  acetic  acid  50% 

l'/j   lbs  14".0  g  wain 

9       oz      550  g  acetate  of  lime   15°  Tw., 

IT1..   oz    1100  g  acetate  ofaluminal9°Tw., 

10  lbs  10  kg 

Printed  on  yarn   previously  oiled. 


5'/.  lbs 

1  lb 

2  lbs  6 


rine  Orange  with  Chrome. 

5500  g  thickening  II 
1000  g  Alizarine  Orange  N 
paste  20°/o 

oz     400  g  acetic  acid  50% 

oz  2375  g  water 

oz     725  g  acetate  of  chrome  32°  Tw. 


10  lbs 


10  kg 


Alizarine    Red  with  Alumina. 

6  lbs  6000  g  thickening  III 

6%  oz  400  g  Alizarine    Red    5F    paste 

20°/o 

3'/i  oz  200  g  acetic  acid  50°/o 

2  lbs    6'ft  oz  2415  g  water 

5%  oz  320  g  acetate   of  lime   15°  Tw., 

7       oz  440  g  acetate  of  alumina  19°  Tw., 

3%  oz  225  g  oxalate    of   tin,    25°  Tw., 


10  lbs  10  kg 

Printed  on   yarn   previously  oiled. 


6  lbs 


3   lbs 


Alizarine   Pink. 

6000  g  thickening  III 
125 


Alizarine    Red    IB    paste 

20°/o 
S'/<  02      200  g  acetic  acid  50% 
5%  oz    3330  g  water 

2'/»  oz      160  g  acetate    of    lime    15°  Tw., 
2%  oz      185  g  acetate  of  alumina  19"  Tw., 


10  lbs  10  kg 

Printed  on  yarn   previously  oiled. 


5  lbs 
1  lb 


Alizarine  Claret   R   with   Alumina. 

8  oz  5500  g  thickening    III 

1000  g  Alizarine  Claret  R  paste 

4  oz     250  g  acetic  acid  50  % 
14   oz   1810  g  water 
10  oz     640  g  acetate  of  lime  15°Tw., 
13  oz     800  g  acetate  of  alumina  19°  Tw., 


10  lb! 


10  kg 


Alizarine  Lilac. 

6  lbs  6000  g  thickening   II 

4       oz  250  g  Alizarine  Red  No  1,  paste 

20% 

3'/«  oz  200  g  acetic  acid  50% 

"  \  oz  3135  g  watei 

4      oz  250  g  acetate  of  lime    15°  Tw., 

2'/t  oz  165  g  pyrolignite  of  iron  53°Tw., 


10  lbs 


10  kg 


Alizarine  Blue. 

5  lbs        8       oz  5500  g  thickening  II 

51/*  oz  330  g  Alizarine  Blue  SB  powder 

3  lbs     13  'It  oz  3840  g  water 

5    ,  02  880  g  acetate  of  chrome  82°  Tw., 


10  lbs 


10  kg 


—     99 


Recipes  for  the  Patterns  on  page  97. 


5  lbs 
3  lbs 


5 


9. 
Ce  ruleine. 
oz  5500  g   thickening  II 
oz     300  g  Ceruleine  S  powder 
oz  3475  g  water 
oz     725  g  acetate  of  chrome  32  Tw., 


10  lbs 


5'/2  lbs 

23/4 

3      lbs  8l/2 

23/4 

9V2 


10  kg 


11. 

Alizarine  Brown. 
5500  g  thickening  II 
oz       170  g  Alizarine  Brown  R 

powder 
oz     3560  g  water 
oz        170  g  borax 
oz       600  g  neutral  chrome  mordant. 


10  lbs. 


10  k. 


1  lb 


6  lbs 
1  lb 


2'/a  oz 
8'/2  oz 


13. 
Chromoglaucine. 
oz     300  g  Chromoglaucine  VM  paste 
oz   1800  g  water. 

After  dissolving  add: 
6000  g   thickening  II 
oz   1200  g  water. 

150  g  formic  acid  98°/o 

550  g  acetate  of  chrome  32  Tw. 


10  lbs 


10  k. 


15. 

Diphenyl  Black  Base. 

3  lbs     6'/-2  oz  3400  g  thickening Iaremixed 

into      the     cooled 

solution  of 

5      oz     300  g  Diphenyl  Black  Base  I 

13  7»  oz     850  g  Acetic  acid  50  %  and 


</)  cj 


'/s  oz     400  g  lactic  acid  50°/o. 
Into 
4000  g  thickeninglaremixed 
23/4  oz     175  g  aluminium      chloride 
53°  Tw. 
3/4  oz        28  g  copper  chloride 

77°  Tw.   and    the 
cooled  solution   of 
4      oz     250  g  sodium   chlorate  dis- 
solved in 
9  '2  oz     600  g   water. 

Shortly  before  use  Standard 
Colour  B  is  mixed  with  A, 
then  the  whole  is  reduced  to 


10  lbs.  10  k  and  strained. 

After  being  developed   in  the   hotflue   the  yarn   is 
steamed  for   '/4  hour  without  pressure. 


5  lbs 

1  lb 


2  lbs 


10. 
Alizarine  Green. 
8       oz  5500  g  thickening  II 

1000  g  Alizarine  Green   S    paste 
7'/s  oz     465  g  bisulphite  of  chrome 

32°  Tw., 
l7/s  oz     115  g  bisulphite  of  nickel 

32°  Tw., 
14s/8  oz  2920  g  water 


10  lbs 


10  kg 


12. 


P  h  il  och  romine. 

6  lbs  6000  g  thickening  II 

1  lb  1000  g  Philochromine  B  paste 

2'/2  oz     150  g  formic  acid  98°/o 

2  lbs  9'/2  oz  2600  g  water 

4       oz     250  g  acetate    of   chrome   32°  Tw. 


10  lbs 


10  k 


Alizarine  Red  on  Dianil  Blue  H6G. 

The  bleached  yarn  is  first  dyed  with  : 
0,5 °/0  Dianil  Blue  H6G 
10     °/o  commercial   salt, 
then  oiled  with   30  g  Turkey  red  oil  per  litre, 
and  printed  with  : 
6  lbs  6000  g  thickening  III 

6'/2  oz     400  g  Alizarine  Red  I  paste  20°/o 
3'/4  oz     200  g  acetic  acid  50°/o 
2  lbs  10      oz  2640  g  water 

5'/4  oz     320  g  acetate  of  lime  15°  Tw. 
7       oz     440  g  acetate  of  alumina   19°  Tw. 


10  lbs. 


10  k. 


16. 


Methylene  Yellow  H. 
5000  g  thickening  I 
l'/aoz     100  g  Methylene  Yellow  H 
6  '/2  oz     400  g  acetic  acid  50  °/o 
1  '/>  oz     100  g  acetine 
3990  g  water 
'/6  oz        10  g  tartaric  acid 
6V0  oz     400  g  acetic  acid  tannin   solution 
1:1. 


10  lbs. 


10  k. 


100     — 


Recipes  for  the  Patterns  on  pa»e  97. 


17. 

F  1  a  v  o  p  b  o  s  p  h  i  n  e. 

.V,  lbs  5500  g  thickening  I 

2'/4  oz     130  g  Flavopbosphine  R  cone. 

new 
7'  i  oz     450  g  acclic  acid  50°  o 
l'/t  oz     100  g  acetine 
3       lbs  4*'«  oz  3290  g  water 

'/i  oz        10  g  tartaric  acid 
8      oz     520  g  acetic  acid  tannin  solution 
1:1 


18. 

Rosazeine  Scarlet. 


5'/»  lbs 


r 


5500  g  thickening  I 
100  g  Rosazeine  Scarlet  G  extra 
6' '.  oz     400  g  acetic  acid  50% 
1 '     oz     100  g  acetine 

:   i  oi  3490  g  watcr 

1  «i  oz        10  g  tartaric  acid 
6      02     400  g  acetic  acid  tannin  solution 
1:1. 


10  lbs. 


10  k. 


10  k. 


19. 

Methyl   Violet. 

5  lbs       8      <>z  5500  g  thickening  I 

1       oz       60  g  Methyl  Violet  B 
3'/4  oz     200  g  acetic  acid  50  °o 
'  4  oz       50  g  acetine 
3  lbs     15      oz  3940  g  water 

'/«  oz        10  g  tartaric  acid 
3s  t  oz     240  g  acetic  acid  tannin  solution 
1:1. 


10  lbs. 


10  k. 


20. 

X  ivy  B 1  u e. 

6  lbs  6000  g  thickening  I 

3  4  oz        50  g  Marine  Blue  D5R 

oz     150  g  acetic  acid  50°/o 

3  t  oz        50  g  acetine 

3  lbs  8'/s  oz  3540  g  water 

'/e  oz        10  g  tartaric  acid 
31  4  oz     200  g  acetic  acid  tannin  solution 
Ul. 

10  lbs.        10  k. 


21. 

Methylene  Grey    BD. 

6  lbs  6000  g  thickening  I 

1       oz       60  g  Methylene  Grey  BD 
I '     oz     100  g  acetic  acid  50°  o 
1      oz       60  g  acetine 
3  lbs  8'/s  oz  3530  g  water 

1  «  oz        10  g  tartaric   Acid 
334  oz     240  g  acetic    acid     tannin    solution 
1:1. 


10  lbs 


10  k. 


22. 

Brilliant  Green. 

5  lbs  5000  g  thickening  I 

1 '  :  oz     100  g  Brilliant  Green  superior 
powder 
1  i  oz       25  g  Auramine  cone. 
6'     oz     400  g  acetic  acid  50°/o 
l1  j  oz     100  g  acetine 
3  lbs  14      oz  3865  g  water 

*/e  oz        10  g  tartaric  acid 
8      oz     500  g  acetic   acid    tannin    solution 
1:1 


10  lbs.  10  k. 

The  printing  colours  1 — 22  were  printed  on  the  iron  pearl  printing  machine. 


23. 

Leather  Yellow  Base  on  Linen  Yarn. 

100  g   Leather  Yellow  Base  O  are 
dissolved  by  heating  in 
6'     oz     400  g  acetic  acid  50°/o 
1 '  4  OZ       75  g  acetine 

'/4  oz        15  g  tartaric  acid 
l'/«oz       75  g  glycerine,  and 
7  lbs  14  s  «  oz   7935  g  water,  into  which  are  mixed 
1  lbs  1000  g  tragacantfa    (60  :  1000)    and 

added 
6 '/a  oz     400  g  acetic    acid    tannin    solution 

1:1. 


24. 

Green  on  Linen  Yarn. 

7  lbs  11'/,  oz  7720  g  water 

2'/°  oz     150  g  Alizarine  Yellow  5G  powder 

»/t  oz       30  g  Methylene  Blue  DBB 
2'  4  oz      175  g  formic  acid  98°/o 
1  lbs     3'/4  oz  1200  g  tragacanth  (60:  1000) 

11s  4  oz     725  g  acetate  of  chrome  32°  Tw. 

10  lbs.        10  k. 


10  lbs. 


10  k. 


101 


Recipes  for  the  Patterns  on  page  (.)7. 
25. 
Red-Blue  Print. 
Red. 


1 

oz 

60  g  Rosazeine  Scarlet  G  extra 

'/« 

oz 

50  g  Rosazeine  4G 

3I* 

oz 

50  g  Safranine  GGS 

6'/s 

oz 

400  g  acetic  acid  50  °/o 

7  lbs   lO'/e 

oz 

7635  g  water 

2'/2 

oz 

150  g  acetine 

7« 

oz 

15  g  tartaric  acid 

1  lbs 

1000  g  tragacanth   (60:1000) 

10>/4 

oz 

640  g  acetic   acid    tannin    solution 
1:1. 

1 


Blue, 
g  Marine  Blue  DBI 


4 '/a  oz  280  g  acetic  acid  50  > 

8  lbs  5'/»  oz  8350  g  water 
1       oz       60  g  acetine 
'la  oz       10  g  tartaric  acid 

1  lbs  1000  g  tragacanth   (60:1000) 

33/4  oz  240  g  acetic     acid     tannin    solution 
1:1. 


10  lbs 


111  k. 


10  lbs. 


10  k. 


26. 
Pink-Lightgreen  Print. 


Lightgreen. 

Pink. 

17« 

oz 

100  g  Methylene  Yellow  H 

2/3 

OZ 

40  g   Rosazeine  4G 

V* 

dr 

3  g  Brilliant    Green    superior 

1 

OZ 

60  g  Rosazeine  Scarlet  G  extra 

powder 

4 

oz 

250  g  acetic  acid  50°/o 

4 

oz 

250  g  acetic  acid  50°/o 

VI 2 

oz 

100  g  acetine 

1'/= 

oz 

100  g  acetine 

7  lbs 

15 

oz 

7940  g  water 

V. 

oz 

10  g  tartaric  acid 

V« 

oz 

10  g  tartaric  acid 

7  lbs 

15'/2 

oz 

7987  g  water 

1   lb 

3'/< 

oz 

1200  g  tragacanth   (60  :  1000) 

1   lb 

37< 

oz 

1200  g  tragacanth   (60  :  1000) 

6'/2 

oz 

400  g  acetic    acid    tannin    solu- 

5'/. 

oz 

350  g  acetic    acid     tannin    solu- 
tion 1  :  1 

tion   1  :  1 

1 

i")  Itis 

in  ko 

10  lbs 


27. 
Yellow -Heliotrope  Print. 


Yellow. 


2/3  oz       40  g  Auramine  cone. 
l'/s  oz     100  g  acetic  acid  50°/o 
*/a  oz       40  g  acetine 
8  lbs      Vli  oz  8450  g  water 

'/a  oz        10  g  tartaric  acid 
1   lb        3'/i  oz   1200  g  tragacanth  (60  :  1000) 

2'/»  oz     160  g  acetic    acid     tannin    solu- 
tion  1  :  1 


10  lbs 


10  kg 


He  1  i  o  trope. 


2  3  oz       40  g  Methylene  Heliotrope  O 

l'/s  oz     100  g  acetic  acid  50 "/a 

2/3  oz       40  g  acetine 

8  lbs       7'li  oz  8450  g  water 

\s  oz       10  g  tartaric  acid 

1    lb         3' 4  oz   1200  g  tragacanth   (60:1000) 

21  a  oz     160  g  acetic    acid    tannin    solu- 
tion  1  :  1 


10  lbs 


10  kg 


—     102     — 

Recipes  for  the  l'atterns  on  pa 

28. 
Black  -  Li gh  t blue  Print. 


Black. 
5       oz     300  g    Diphenyl     Black 
Base     I,     dis- 
solved in 
l3*/<  "'■     850  g  acetic   acid    508/o 
and 
6'/j  oz     400  g  lactic    acid    50'/» 
then  left  to  cool 
and  mixed  into 

1  lb  8       oz   1500  g  gum  solution  1  :  1 

and 

2  lbs         l*/«  oz  2107  g   water 

OZ  175  g  aluminium  chlo- 
ride 53  °  Tw„ 
and 
/-  28  g  copper  chloride 
77  "  Tw.,  are 
dissolved  in 

1  lb  1000  g   water  and 

8  oz  500  g  gum  solution  1 : 1 
then  the  cooled 
solution  of 

4  oz  250  g  sodium  chlorate 
and 

2  lbs      141,4  oz  2890  g  water  is  added. 


L  i  g  h  t  b  I  u  e. 

25  g  Thionine  l'.lue  GO 

I  7">   g  antic  acid  M"  o 

1       OZ        25   g  acetine 
8  lbs      9\4  oz  8570  g 

',,.<•/  5  g   tartaric  acid 

1    Hi        Bll*  oz   1200  g  tragacanth  (60:1000) 

I        oz     100  g  acetic    acid     tannin    solu- 
tion  1  :  1 


10   lbs 


10  kg 


10  kg 
Standard  Colour  1(  is  added   before  use  to 
Standard  Colour  A. 
The  printing  colours  23—28  were  printed  on  the  wooden   printing   machine. 


29. 
D  i  a  n  i  1   Brown. 
Discharged  with: 
1       lb     1000  g  Hydrosulphite  NF  cone. 

7500  g  water 
1'      lbs   1500  g  tragacanth   (60  :  1000) 

10  lbs      10  kg  10  lbs      10  kg 

The    printing  colours  29  and  30  were  printed  on    the  multi-colour  iron    machine. 


30. 
Paranitr aniline  Red. 

Discharged  with  : 
2       lbs  2000  g   Hydrosulphite  NF  cone. 

6500  g  water 
1   '■■    lbs    1500  g   tragacanth   (60:1000) 


-o®<^ 


IV.     COTTON  PIECE  DYEING. 


PREPARATION  FOR  DYEING. 

Cotton  piece  goods  are  dyed  either  as  taken  from  the  loom,  or  after 
various  preceding  treatments.  The  most  important  and  most  usual  treatments 
are  singeing,  bleaching  and  mercerising,  all  of  which  are  described  in  a  brief 
chapter  of  vol.  IV. 

Besides  these  preparatory  treatments  there  are  others,  notably  crabbing 
and  steaming,  which  are  chiefly  used  for  better  class  fabrics  for  the  purpose 
of  imparting  to  the  cloth  a  closer  and  more  glossy  surface. 

The   Crabbing    Machine,    fig.  23,    consists    of   three    troughs    over    each    of 


Fig.  23. 


which  a  pair  of  heavy  iron  rollers  is  placed.     Half  of  the  lower  rollers  are  sunk 
into   the   troughs,    and   are   connected   with    reversible   gear.     The    upper    rollers 


—      KM      — 

can  be  lifted  or  lowered  by  means  of  levers,  and  pressed  by  weights  upon  the 
lower  rollers.  The  cloth  is  rolled  under  tension,  at  full  width  and  evenly,  upon 
the  roller  of  the  first  trough,  and,  weighted  by  the  upper  roller,  passes  for  a 
shorter  or  longer  time,  according  to  its  quality,  through  boiling  water  to  which, 
if  n<  ome   soda  has   been   added.     In  the  second  part   of  the  machine 

the  same  treatment  is  repeated  with  boiling  water,  and  in  the  third  part  the 
cloth  is  cooled  by  passing  through  cold  water. 

The  crabbing,  especially  for  cotton  Italians  and  similar  goods,  is 
followed  by  steaming.  The  crabbed  goods  are  rolled  evenly  upon  hollow  per- 
forated, cloth-covered  metal  cylinders,  and  then  wrapped  in  canvas  which 
is  tied  up  at  both  ends.  These  cylinders  are  then  placed  upon  a  steam  pipe, 
and  steamed  for  about  10  minutes  under  slight  pressure.  Usually  after  cooling 
the  cloth  is  re-rolled  upon  a  second  steaming  or  decatizing  cylinder,  steamed 
once  more  in  the  same  manner,  and  then  dried. 

Cotton  stuffs  with  a  short  pile,  such  as  Corduroys,  Velvets  and 
Velveteens,  require  a  rather  different  preparation  before  dyeing:  After  passing 
through  the  Velvet-cutting  machine,  the  goods  are  tightly  packed  into  cisterns 
made  of  wood  or  cement,  and  soaked  for  48  hours  in  cold  water  to  which 
yeast,  malt  or  diastaphor  has  been  added.  The  liquid  is  then  heated  and  cir- 
culated by  means  of  an  injector  or  pump;  it  is  brought  to  the  boil  within 
6  hours  and  kept  at  this  temperature  for  other  6  hours. 

Alter  boiling  the  goods  are  left  overnight  in  the  basin,  then  the  water  is 
drawn  off,  and  the  goods  washed  hot  for  an  hour  in  the  winch  or  beck.  By 
this  means  they  are  perfectly  cleansed  and  the  pile  closed  up.  The  goods  are 
then  hydroextracted  at  full  width,  or  drained  and  dried. 

The  further  treatment  of  velvet  consists  in  repeated  brushing  and  singeing, 
operations  which  must  be  changed  according  to  the  quality  of  the  fabric,  but 
carried  out  thoroughly,  because  they  cannot  be  executed  after  dyeing. 

Corduroys,  if  starched  before  cutting,  are  treated  like  Velvets  and  Vel- 
veteens. Unstarched  Corduroys  are  freed  from  size  in  the  winch,  hot.  After 
hydroextracting  and  drying  the  goods  are  worked  in  the  same  manner  as  Velvet, 
and  if  necessary  passed  through  a  raising  machine. 

Corduroys  are  singed  on  the  gas  singeing  machine,  Velvets  and  Velveteens 
on  the  plate  or  cylinder  singeing  machine. 

All  manipulations  must  be  carried  out  with  the  care  indispensible  for  this 
class  of  goods,  in  order  to  avoid  spots  or  unevenness  of  the  pile.  For  that 
I  mi  pose  and  to  prevent  them  from  creasing  it  is  necessary  to  pass  the  goods 
at  the  preparatory  treatment  piece  by  piece  as  straight  as  possible,  by  setting 
the  machines  most  accurately  and,  especially  when  dealing  with  Velvets,  great 
care  is  required  to  avoid  friction  on  the  back  of  the  goods. 

-Moleskins,  heavy  cotton  dress  goods  are  effectively  freed  from 
size    before   dyeing    by    means    of   malt    or    malt    preparations.     The    pieces    are 

'1  on  the  jigger  3—4  times  through  boiling  water  which  is  then  run 
off,  after  which  the  vessel  is  refilled  with  cold  water,  and  about  lxjt  litres  barley 


—     105     — 

malt,  previously  macerated  with  tepid  water,  are  then  added  for  every  100  kg 
(100  lbs)  of  cloth.  The  liquid  is  sufficiently  heated  by  the  still  warm  material 
which  is  passed  through  about  6  or  8  times.  Instead  of  malt,  1J2 — Vs  of  the 
quantity  of  Diastophor  may  be  used.  Finally  the  goods  are  boiled  with  some 
soda,  and  are  then  sufficiently  prepared  for  dyeing.  — 

Light  and  medium  weight  Cotton  Fabrics  which  are  dyed  in  the 
half  —  or  fully  bleached  state,  are  best  passed  after  bleaching  through  a  water 
calander  with  2  cotton  rollers  and  one  intermediate  bronze  roller  (fig.  24  of  the 


.Fig  24. 


Elsassische  Maschinenbau-Gesellschaft,  Miihlhausen  i.  E.).  Through  these  the 
cloth  is  squeezed  to  ab'  80°/o.  Thus  prepared,  it  is  better  fitted  for  dyeing 
than  in  the  dried  state,    and   moreover   one  drying  operation   is  dispensed  with. 


-o@e=~ 


The  machines  used  in  dyeing  cotton  piece  goods  are :  the  winch,  the 
jigger,  the  padding  machine,  the  continuous  dyeing  machine,  the  foularding 
machine. 


A.  DYEING  IN  THE  CISTERN. 

The  dyeing  winch  is  the  simplest  form  of  machine  for  piece  dyeing. 
Over  a  wooden  or  iron  cistern,  one  side  of  which  is  slanting,  a  roller  is  placed 
which  is  turned  mechanically  by  special  driving  gear.  The  material  to  be  dyed 
is  passed  over  it,  the  ends  being  sewn  together.  In  this  manner  the  cloth, 
which  is  opened  out  by  hand  whilst  the  machine  is  running,  is  passed  con- 
tinually through  the  dyeing  trough.  The  goods  are  worked  in  the  20 — 30  fold 
quantity    of   liquid ;    several    drafts    may    be    dyed    simultaneously   if    the    fabric 


—     106     — 

permits  it.  For  winch  dyeing,  such  goods  are  particularly  suitable  as  cannot  be 
dyed  on  the  jigger  or  other  appliances,  e.  g.  hosiery  goods,  which  get  easily 
stretched  out  of  shape,  very  heavy  cotton  Velvets  etc.  Winch  dyeing,  owing  to 
the  material  being  left  in  the  dyebath  in  a  loose  condition,  has  the  advantage 
that  the  goods  are  more  thoroughly  dyed  than  in  other  machines. 


Fig.  25. 


The  dyebaths  are  made  up  according  to  the  known  methods ;  the  tem- 
perature, the  time  for  dyeing  etc.,  depend  upon  the  nature  of  the  fabric  and 
the  colours  required.  It  may  sometimes  happen,  especially  with  deeper  colours 
and  heavy  goods,  that  the  time  for  letting  off  the  dyebath  and  refilling  the 
winch  with  washwater  is  too  short  to  prevent  faults.  These  faults  are  often  due 


Fig.  20. 


—     107     — 

to  some  of  the  hot  liquid  contained  in  the  inner  parts  trickling  through  upon 
the  outer,  cooled  parts  and  thus  producing  light  spots ;  this  evil  can  be  remedied 
however  by  passing  the  goods  through  hot  water  immediately  after  dyeing. 
Where  there  are  no  double  ranges,  this  may  be  done  by  using  a  transportable 
rinsing  vessel,  as  sketched  in  fig.  26. 


The  same  effect  can  be  produced  by  a  combination  of  winch  and  rinsing 
vessels,  as  shewn  in  fig.  27,  an  apparatus  made  by  the  ,,Zittauer  Maschinen- 
Fabrik  A.-G". 


B.     DYEING  ON  THE  JIGGER. 

Dyeing  on  the  jigger  is  the  most  convenient  and  safest  form  of  dyeing 
cotton  goods,  and  preferable  wherever  the  working  on  the  winch  can  be  avoided. 

When  dyeing  on  the  jigger  a  concentrated  liquid  1  :  3  or  1  :  5  is  used. 
The  liquid  is  generally  kept  at  the  boil  by  indirect  steam.  The  dyeing  operation 
usually  lasts  one  hour. 

Fabrics  that  cannot  stand  the  pressure  of  rollers,  such  as  Velvets,  Cor- 
duroys etc.,  are  not  squeezed  out  but  rinsed  directly  after  dyeing.  In  that  case 
it  is  advisable  to  provide  the  jigger  with  a  squirting  apparatus. 

Very  wide  hosiery  goods  are  also  dyed  on  the  jigger,  which  is  best 
driven  by  hand  for  this  purpose.  While  one  man  turns  the  handle,  another 
opens  out  the  cloth  at  full  width ;  thus  it  is  possible  to  work  slower  or  faster, 
according  to  the  requirements  or  the  behaviour  of  the  fabric  in  dyeing. 

The  dj'eing  on  the  jigger  presents  no  difficulties  when  the  material  is 
wound  evenly  on  to  the  rollers  and  runs  on  them  smoothly  without  creasing. 
The  troughs  of  the  jigger  are  made  of  either  wood  or  iron,  the  wooden  or  iron 
guide  rollers  running  in  pockwood  sockets. 


108     — 


Fig.  28. 

In  dvcing  with  Sulphur  colours  two  jiggers  are  usually  combined.  The 
first,  or  so-called  dye  jigger,  is  fitted  with  an  iron  squeezing  roller  covered  with 
India  rubber  which  rests  loosely  on  bent  levers.  This  squeezing  roller  can 
be  still  further  weighted;  the  machine  contains  a  contrivance  by  means  of 
which  the  pressure  roller  can  be  lifted  at  will  from  the  pulling  roller.  The 
squeezing  apparatus  is  only  used  after  dyeing;  from  there  the  cloth  is  passed 
direct  into  the  second  jigger,  the  rinsing  jigger,  in  which  it  is  being  washed  in 
cold  water  until  the  washwater  runs  off  colourless. 

In  larger  concerns  the  rinsing  jigger  is  combined  with  several  successive 
colour  jiggers  by  corresponding  guide  rollers. 

When  dyeing  light  shades  the  dyebath  must  be  renewed  for  each  lot;  for 
medium  and  dark  shades  the  old  baths  may  be  used  over  again,  in  order  to 
economize  the  dyestuff;  the  old  baths  require  about  15 — 20  °o  less  than  the 
original  baths. 

Light  shades  are  dyed  at  a  temperature  of  104  —  122°  F.,  dark  shades  at 
the  boil.  The  time  of  dyeing  is  '/*  to  1  hour,  according  to  the  depth  of  the 
shade  and  the  size  of  the  rollers. 

.Many  fabrics,  especially  in  lighter  or  medium  shades,  (except  such  as  are 
produced  with  Sulphur  colours),  can  be  frydroextracted  and  dried  immediately 
after  being  taken  out  of  the  dyebath.  Full  shades  and  those  which  have  to  be 
developed  or  aftertreated  with  metal  salts  are  first  rinsed. 


109     — 


C.    DYEING  ON  THE  PADDING  MACHINE. 

The  dyeing  on  the  padding  machine  differs  from  that  on  the  jigger  in  that 
by  the  former  method  the  cloth  is  squeezed  out  each  time  it  passes  through 
the  dye  liquid.  The  padding  machines  are  constructed  with  either  two  or  three 
rollers.  The  following  sketches  29,  30  and  31  built  by  the  Maschinenfabrik 
Fr.  Gebauer  in  Berlin,  illustrate  the  running  of  the  cloth. 


Fie.  29. 


Fig.  30. 


Fig.  31. 


The  sides  of  the  frame,  which  are  connected  by  traverses,  hold  a  bottom 
roller  covered  with  India  rubber,  on  which  rests  one  or  two  upper  rollers  covered 
with  brass,  copper  or  iron.  These  are  pressed  firmly  together  by  double  lever 
pressure,  and  are  worked  by  friction  motion  or  direct  driving  gear. 

The  cloth,  passing  at  first  over  expanders,  is  conducted  into  the  box  placed 
below  the  squeezing  rollers;  it  takes  up  the  colour,  after  which  it  is  squeezed 
out  between  the  rollers  of  the  padding  machine  and  then  re-wound  on  a  loose 
roller.  This  rests  on  2  slanting  arms,  and  rises  automatically  whilst  the  material 
is  winding  itself  upon  it. 

This  loose  roller  can  be  taken  off  or  can  again  be  placed  on  the  bottom 
brackets,  if  the  cloth  is  again  to  pass  through  the  liquid.  This  operation  is 
continued  until  the  desired  shade  is  produced. 

The  padding  machines  are  extensively  used  in  piece  dyeing,  not  only  for 
dyeing  but  for  washing,  for  which  purpose  they  are  provided  with  squirting 
pipes,  and  also  as  finishing  and  starching  machines. 


—     110     — 

D.    DYEING  ON  THE  CONTINUOUS  DYEING  MACHINE. 

The  continuous  machines  are  typical  arrangements  for  working  on  a  large 
scale,  when  alone  they  can  be  employed  to  advantage.  They  were  evolved  out 
of  1  i  the  old  so-called  grey  dyeing  machine  on  which  was  produced  the  lining 
—  grey  by   successive   immersions    into    logwood    iron    and    rinsing   baths,   and 

it  of  the  Indigo  dyeing  machine  consisting  of  one  or  more  vats,  through 
which  the  material  ran  continuously. 

Particulars  as  to  Indigo  dyeing  in  this  vat  will  be  found  on  page  175  of  vol.  I. 

Besides  Indigo,  the  colours  chiefly  dyed  in  the  continuous  machines  are 
greys,  blacks  and  darkblues,  in  some  cases  also  browns  and  Para  red. 


The  operation  of  dyeing  Para  red  on  pieces  has  already  been  described 
on  page  230  vol.  I. 

The  dyeing  apparatus  for  Black  usually  consists  of  large  roller  cisterns 
containing  several  divisions,  between  each  of  which  a  pair  of  squeezing  rollers 
is  placed.     Fig.   32  shows  such  a  machine   adapted  for  Dianil  Black. 

This  method  is  chiefly  used  for  cheap  linings.  In  the  first  portion  of  the 
machine  the  cloth  is  passed  through  a  boiling  soda  bath  (about  1°0  soda  calc.) 
which  is  replenished  during  the  operation  by  the  addition  of  fresh  soda  (about 
lJ2°jv  of  the  weight  of  the  goods).  After  being  squeezed  out,  the  cloth  passes 
into  compartments  which  contain  the  dye  liquid  and  are  kept  at  the  boil  by 
indirect   steam. 

I'm-  the  initial  baths 
21/s  oz  p.  gall.  (15  g  p,  1.)  Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone,  or  EB  cone. 
are  used,  being  added  in  portions  of 

3  to  3  Va  °/o  of  dyestuff  of  the  weight  of  the  goods 
either  continuously  during  the  running  of  the  machine,  or  after  the  passing  through 
of  each  piece.     The  soda  bath  must  be  renewed  daily,  whereas  the  dyebaths  may 
be  used  for  an  indefinite  period. 


—    Ill    — 

The  fabric  having  taken  up  some  alkali  from  the  first  cistern,  carries  this 
into  the  dyebaths,  therefore  an  addition  of  about  1  '/*  oz  (100  g)  Soda  per  lb. 
(ko.)  dyestuff  to  the  dyebaths  (at  the  time  of  dissolving)  suffices. 

The  passage  through  the  dyebath  must  last  3 — 4  minutes  and  the  goods, 
when  taken  out,   must  be  allowed  to  lie  for  about  an  hour  before  washing. 

The  three  cisterns  contain  collectively  about  800 — 1000  gall.  (4000  litres) 
liquid.     The  production  is  about  1000  metres  per  hour. 

Blacks  of  greater  fastness,  yet  as  simply  produced,  are  obtained  by  using 
Thiogene  Black. 


Fig.  33. 

As  seen  from  fig.  33  the  apparatus  consists  of  a  small  roller  cistern,  con- 
nected with  a  working  broad-washing  machine,  containing  powerful  agitators. 

The  dry  cloth  passes  within  30  seconds  through  the  colour  liquid  in  the 
roller  cistern  which  is  kept  at  boiling  temperature  by  indirect  steam.  It  is 
then  passed  through  a  pair  of  squeezing  rollers,  and  then  directly  into  the 
broad-washing  machine.  It  is  essential  so  to  manipulate  the  operation  as  to 
make  the  passage  through  the  air  as  short  as  possible:  between  the  colour 
liquid  and  the  squeezing  rollers  on  the  one  hand,  and  between  these  and  the 
washing  machine  on  the  other;  the  impurities  from  the  first  washing  vessel  run 
off  over  its  upper  rim. 

While  the  machine  is  running  the  boiling  padding  bath  is  kept  at  equal 
strength   by  a  continuous   addition  of  fresh   liquid. 

According  to  quality  the  goods  take  up  80— 90°/o  of  the  padding  liquid; 
they  pass  then  into  the  washing  machine  containing  agitators  and  having  a 
sufficient  supply  of  running  water.  The  three  patterns  given  below  were  pro- 
duced in  this  manner. 

The  padding  bath  contained  in  100  litres  (100  gall.)  water: 
2'i  oz  15      g  Thiogene  Padding  Black  liquid  M 
l1^  oz     7,5  g  Sodium  Sulphide  cryst. 
3/4  oz     5     g  caustic  soda  77°  Tw. 

Thiogene  Blues  and  other  Thiogene  Colours  can  also  be  dyed  by  means 
of    the    continuous    process,    especially  Thiogene  Blue  B    has    attained    practical 


—    1112    — 


importance,  for  being  easily   and  evenly  produced  on  cotton    and   linen  as  well 
as  on  half-linen  piece  goods. 

Where    a   large  production    is    concerned,    a    roller    cistern    with   airing   in- 
stallation   is    employed;    the    latter    must    be    of   such    a    length    (20  yds)    that 


the  goods,  after  leaving  the  hot  dyebath,  are  perfectly  cooled  before  being  plaited 
down  or  wound  upon  the  rollers. 

Dark   shades   can   be   obtained  with  Thiogene  Blue  B  in   one   passage   by 
the  continuous  method. 


Fig.  34. 


—     113     — 

For  production  on  a  small  scale  a  pair  of  jiggers  placed  one  behind  the 
other  can  be  employed.  To  the  one,  as  shown  in  fig.  34,  some  rollers  are 
affixed  which  in  conjunction  with  those  inside  the  jigger  box  form  the  airing 
apparatus.     This  jigger  can  be  otherwise  employed  afterwards. 


E.     PADDING  OR  FOULARDING. 

Broadly  speaking,  padding  or  foularding  means  dyeing  by  a  short  im- 
mersion of  only  a  few  seconds  in  the  dyebath.  For  foularding  the  previously 
described  padding  machines  are  used.  The  dyeing  troughs  of  the  foularding 
machine   are,   as   a   rule,   much   smaller   and  somewhat  different  in  construction 


Fig.  35. 


from  those  of  the  padding  machines.  After  foularding,  for  which,  before  all, 
the  direct  colours  are  suitable,  the  goods  are  not  washed  but  dried  direct.  In 
productions  on  a  large  scale  the  hotflue  in  combination  with  the  foularding 
machine  serves  this  purpose.  Fig.  35  shows  such  an  arrangement,  constructed 
by  the  Elsassische  Maschinenbau-Gesellschaf t  Miilhausen  i.  E. 

The    foularding    machine    itself    is    suitably    constructed    according    to    the 
arrangement  shown  in  fig.  36. 

8  n 


-      1H 


Fig.  36. 


The  bath  is  prepared  in  a  high  level  cistern,  which  is  heated  by  in- 
direct steam. 

The  padding  liquid  runs  into  a  feeding  channel  and  from  thence  is  divided 
over  the  whole  breadth  of  the  dye  trough  which  is  capable  of  holding  21/s  litres 
(2  qts.)  (the  2  roller  foulards  1  '/a  litres  (3  pints).  Several  guide  rollers  are 
fixed  within  the  dye  trough. 

After  foularding  the  goods  are  dried  in  the  hotflue  or  on  the  cylinder 
drying  machine. 

The  foularding  machine  is  supposed  to  run  at  a  speed  of  40 — 50  yds. 
per  minute,  and  the  pressure  must  be  such  that  the  goods  absorb  an  amount 
of  foularding  liquid  equal  to  60 — 70  °/o   of  their  weight. 

The  bath  is  made  up  as  follows :  The  first  vessel  is  about  half  filled  with 
water.  Into  this  the  solutions  of  dextrine  and  sodium  phosphate  are  put,  then 
the  previously  boiled  and  filtered  colour  solution  is  added,  and  the  vessel  filled 
up   to  a  certain  mark. 

In  order  to  operate  successfully,  a  machine  working  smoothly  and  with 
even  pressure  is  essential.  The  temperature  of  the  foularding  bath,  which  is 
kept  at  the  same  height  in  the  first  vessel,  must  be  even  throughout  the  whole 
trough,  which  is  made  possible  by  the  feeding  channel  supplying  the  whole 
■lih  of  the  box.  The  foularding  bath  can  easily  be  kept  at  the  same  level 
by  arranging  a  slight  overflow  during  the  operation. 


—     115     — 
The  padding  baths  contain: 


for  light  shades,     for  medium  shades, 

for  dar 

k  shades 

Dyestuff 

about       i\t,  oz       10  g          lJ/2  oz 

100  g 

8      oz 

500  g 

Turkey  red  oil 

2      lb   2000  g 

— 

— 

— 

Sodium  phosphate 

4      oz     250  g         8      oz 

500  g 

8      oz 

500  g 

Dextrine 

V\-i  lb   1500  g         V\i  lb 

1500  g 

1  '/a  lb 

1500  g 

Water 

92*/s  lb    92,6  It       973,'4  lb 

97,9  It 

97  l/s  lb 

97,5  It 

100  lb     100  It         100  lb 

100  It 

100  1b 

100  It 

Light  shades 

are  p 

added  twice  at  101—122°  F, 

dark  shades  at  158- 

-176°  F, 

and  then  dried. 

The  following  Dianil  Colours  are  suitable  for  this  method: 

Dianil  Yellow  2  R,  3G.  Dianil  Violet  H. 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S.  Dianil  Brown  3  GO,  R,  G,  BD,  M,  B,  D. 

Aurophenine  O,  I.  Dianil  Fast  Brown  B. 

Cresotine  Yellow  G.  Dianil  Japonine  G, 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O.  Dianil  Green  G,  B. 

Dianil  Orange  G,  N.  Dianil  Darkgreen  B. 

Toluylene  Orange  R.  Dianil  Blue,  all  brands. 

Dianil  Red  R,  4B,   6B,   10  B.  Dianil  Dark  Blue  R,  3R. 

Brilliant  Dianil  Red  R,  R  cone.  Dianil  Black  R,  PR,  CR. 

Deltapurpurine  5B.  Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone,  EB  cone, 
Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  4BS,   8BS.  EF  cone. 

Dianil  Pink  BD. 


^x8*=~ 


Multicoloured  and  rainbow  effects,  ombres,  on  cloths  are  produced  either 
by  printing,  by  the  dipping  process,  by  blowing  colour  solutions  upon  the 
material,  or  lastly  by  padding. 

All  these  processes  have  smaller  or  larger  defects,  attributable  to  the  com- 
plication of  the  apparatus,  the  difficulty  in  tending  the  machines,  the  insufficient 
fixation  of  the  colours  etc. 

In  order  to  produce  ombres,  very  accurate  manipulation  is  necessary.  This 
applies  therefore  also  to  a  process  patented  by  us  (D.  R.  P.  N.  177276)  by  which 
the  padding  machine  is  made  use  of  for  producing  ombre  effects.  A  few 
illustrations  on  page  122  show  various  ombres  obtained  on  a  trial  machine  at 
our  dyeworks. 

The  shaded  colour  solutions  are  transmitted  from  a  partitioned  dye  trough, 
by  means  of  a  correspondingly  partitioned  transfer  roller,  on  to  the  lower  roller 
of  a  padding  machine.  Here  they  run  into  one  another,  and  are  thus  trans- 
ferred to  the  cloth,  and  fixed  by  the  pressure  of  the  upper  roller. 

The  transfer  of  the  separate  colour  solutions  to  the  well-wrapped  lower 
roller  effects  the  gradual  shading  of  the  colours,  an  effect  for  which  the  new 
process  is  specially  distinguished. 


—     116     — 

The  pressure  roller  must  be  most  accurately  regulated,  this  is  indispensable 
for  the  success  of  the  operation,  and  the  machine  must  be  served  by  a  skilled 
workman. 

The  machine  represented  by  figs.  37  and  38,  is  constructed  by  the  firm 
of  C.  G.  Haubold  jun.  of  Chemnitz. 


Fig.  37 


Fig.  38. 


For  the  application  of  this  process  to  cotton  fabrics,  the  Dianil  and  the 
basic  Colours  are  particularly  well  adapted. 

The  following  directions  contain  the  composition  of  the  colours  for  goods 
up  to  110  cm  width;  the  roller  has  22  sections. 


A.    FOR  DIANIL  COLOURS. 


Colour  solution: 


Dilution : 


3 '  4  oz    200  g  Dianil  dyestuff 
4      oz    250  g  Sodium  phosphate 

10  lbs  (1  gall.)     10  litres  condensed  water. 
4  oz        250  g  sodium  phosphate 

10  lbs  (1  gall.)     10  litres  condensed  water. 


I.    Shading  of  Colours  from  dark  to  light  from  Selvedge  to  Selvedge: 

1.  2.  3.  4.  5.  6.  7.  8.  9.  10.  11. 
Colour  solution  I:  1000  800  650  500  400  320  250  200  150  100  75 
Dilution  :  1000  1200  1350  1500  1600  1680  1750  1800  1850  1900  1925 

20. 


Colour  solution  I: 
Dilution : 

Colour  solution  I : 
Dilution : 


12.    13.     14.     15.    16.     17.    18.    19. 

GO    50    40    32    25    20    15    10    7.5 
1940  1950  19(50  1968  1975  1980  1985  1990  1992,5 

21.     22. 
2,5 
1995  1997,5. 


—     117     — 

II.    Shading  of  Colours  from  dark  to  light   in  the  middle  and  to  dark 
again  at  the  other  Selvedge: 


1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 

Colour  solution  I: 

1000 

800 

600 

450 

300 

200 

125 

75 

50 

Dilution : 

1000 

1200 

1400 

1550 

1700 

1800 

1875 

1925 

1950 

10. 

11. 

12. 

13. 

14. 

15. 

16. 

17. 

18. 

Colour  solution  I: 

40 

30 

30 

40 

50 

75 

125 

200 

300 

Dilution : 

1960 

19. 

1970 
20. 

1970 
21. 

1960 
22. 

1950 

192:, 

1875 

1800 

1700 

Colour  solution  I : 

450 

600 

800 

1000 

Dilution : 

1550 

1400 

1200 

1000. 

III.    Shading  of  one  Colour  into  another  from  Selvedge  to  Selvedge, 
with  light  Shading  in  the  Middle. 

1.  2.  3.  4.  5.  6.  7.  8.  9.         10. 


Colour  solution  I: 

1000 

800 

600 

450     3( 

)0     2( 

)0     12 

5      75 

50 

40 

„       II: 

5 

10 

Dilution : 

1000 

1200 

1400  1 

550    17 

00    1800   181 

'5  192; 

3  1945 

1950 

11. 

12. 

13. 

14. 

15. 

16. 

17. 

18. 

Colour  solution  I: 

:!0 

20 

10 

5 

— 

— 

— 

,.       II: 

20 

30 

40 

50 

7 

5         125 

200 

300 

Dilution : 

1950 

1950 

1950 

1945       19 

25      1875 

1800 

1700 

19. 

20. 

21. 

22. 

Colour  solution  I: 

— 

— 

— 

— 

..       II: 

450 

600 

800 

1000 

Dilution: 

1550 

1400 

1200 

1000. 

IV.    Shading  of 

One  Cc 

ilour   i 

into  another 

from 

Selve 

dge  to  Selvedge. 

1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

Colour  solution  I : 

1000 

950 

900 

850 

800 

750 

700 

650 

600 

,>       II: 

— 

50 

100 

150 

200 

250 

300 

350 

400 

Dilution : 

1000 

1000 

1000 

1000 

1000 

1000 

1000 

1000 

1000 

10. 

11. 

12. 

13. 

14. 

15. 

16. 

17. 

18. 

Colour  solution  I : 

550 

525 

475 

450 

400 

350 

300 

250 

200 

„       II: 

450 

475 

525 

550 

600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

Dilution : 

1000 
19. 

1000 

20. 

1000 
21. 

1000 

22. 

1000 

1000 

1000 

1000 

1000 

Colour  solution  I : 

150 

100 

50 

— 

,.       II: 

850 

900 

950 

1000 

Dilution : 

1000 

1000 

1000 

1000. 

The  following  Dianil  Colours  are  specially  suitable : 

Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone.  (Grey),  Dianil  Brown  BD,  Dianil  Brown  3GO 
(Orange  Brown),   Dianil  Azurine  G  (Blue),   Dianil  Blue  R,  B,  G  (bright  Blue  of 


—     118     - 

reddish   to   pure   blue  shade),    Dianil   Dark   Blue  K   ■  pale  Bluet,    Dianil  Claret  B 
(blueish  Red,  or  Strawberry  Colour),  Dianil  Green  (pale  Green)  etc. 

The  well  bleached  goods  are  passed  once  through  the  foulard  between  the 
wrapped  and  the  pressure  roller,  while  the  sectional  roller  is  being  slightly 
sed  against  the  lower  roller  of  the  foulard,  whereby  the  colour  is  transferred 
to  it.  Then,  if  necessary,  the  goods  are  passed  a  second  time  between  the 
wrapped  and  the  pressure  roller,  in  order  to  equalize  the  transfers  and  obtain 
a  thorough  penetration.  The  pieces  are  dried  either  entirely  on  hot  cylinders, 
or  tlu  \  are  only  slightly  dried  and  then  passed  for  5  minutes  through  the  Mather- 
Piatt  quick  steaming  installation  in  order  to  fix  the  colours  perfectly. 


B.    FOR  BASIC  COLOURS. 

Thin  Colour  solutions  (diss,  with  acetic  acid)  are  used  in  corresponding 
gradations,  the  goods  padded  with  them  on  the  Ombre  apparatus,  dried  and 
passed  on  another  padding  machine  through  a  tannin  solution  (30  g  for  every 
litre),  dried  and  steamed  in  the  Mather-Platt.  They  are  afterwards  passed 
through  a  Tartar  emetic  bath  (15  g  for  every  litre  at  95°  F)  in  a  roller  cistern, 
washed  and  dried. 

The  basic  colours  having  a  certain  affinity  to  the  unmordanted  fibre,  are 
already  partially  fixed  at  the  foularding  operation;  therefore  it  is  advisable  to 
increase  the  quantity  of  acetic  acid  in  the  lighter  colour  solutions,  so  as  to 
prevent  a  premature  fixation  which  counteracts  the  equalisation  and  the  running 
of  the  colours  into  one  another.  The  basic  colours  can  also  be  used  for  padding 
as  very  strong  acid  solutions  together  with  tannin,  although  this  process  is  less 
recommcndable  on  account   of  the  large  consumption  of  acetic  acid. 


I.    Rainbi 


Effects  with  Basic  Colours. 


a)  Thionine  Blue  GO 

b)  Brilliant  Green  cryst.  extra 

c)  Auramine  cone. 

d)  Flavophosphine  R  cone,   new 

e)  Safranine  GGS 

3. 


100  g  dyestuff 

100  g  acetic  acid 

diluted  with  condensed 

water 

to   10  litres  each. 
4.        r>.        6.        7.        8.        9. 


in. 


a)  Thionine  Blue  solution: 

b)  Brilliant  Green       ,, 

c)  Auramine  ,, 

d)  Flavophosphine      ,, 

e)  Safranine  ,, 

a)  Thionine  Blue  solution: 

b)  Brilliant  Green       „ 

c)  Auramine  „ 
ill  Flavophosphine  ,, 
e)  Safranine                 ,, 


1.    2. 

1000  500 

—  500  1000  750  500  250  150  75   30   10 

—  —   —  250  500  750  850  925  970  990 


12. 


13. 


14.   15.   16.   17.   IS.   19.   20. 


1000  6G7  333  —   —   —   —   —   —   — 

—  333  (167  100u  900  750  500  250  100  — 

—  —   —      Kin  250  500  75ii  90(i  L000 


—     119     — 

It  may  be  mentioned  that,  with  a  greater  number  of  colour  compartments 
in  the  dye  trough  and  the  correspondingly  increased  number  of  sections  of  the 
transfer  roller,  the  gradations  can  be  improved  upon  by  inserting  between  each 
colour  solution  the  intermediate  shade.  This  arrangement  is  especially  advan- 
tageous for  rather  difficult  colour  gradations. 

II.    Gradation  from  Light  to  Dark  from  Selvedge  to  Selvedge. 
150  g  dyestuff 
1000  g  acetic  acid  J    Colour  solution, 

diluted  with  condensed  water  to  10  litres 
1000  g  acetic  acid  |  . 

9000  g  condensed  water 


1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 

10. 

Colour  solution: 

50 

54 

60 

68 

80 

96 

116 

140 

170 

200 

Dilution: 

950 

946 

940 

932 

920 

904 

884 

860 

830 

800 

11. 

12. 

13. 

14. 

15. 

16. 

17. 

18. 

19. 

20. 

Colour  solution: 

260 

320 

395 

495 

620 

770 

1000 

— 

— 

— 

Dilution: 

740 

680 

605 

505 

380 

230 

— 

— 

— 

— 

The  goods  are  padded,  dried,  padded  with  tannin  solution  30  g  per  litre, 
dried,  steamed,  passed  through  Tartar  emetic  solution  15  g  per  litre,  washed,  dried. 

The  following  basic  colours  are  suitable  for  this  process,  especially  Methylene 
Heliotrope  O,  Methylene  Blue,  Thionine  Blue  GO,  Methylene  Green  extra  yellow 
cone,  Malachite  Green  crys.  extra,  Brilliant  Green  crys.  extra,  Auramine  cone, 
the  Flavophosphines,  the  Safranines,  Rhodamine  4G  extra,  etc. 

The  basic  colours  are  also  used  for  gradations  of  one-colour  effects : 
The  compartments  contain  tannin  solutions  of  various  strength,   e.  g. : 

I        II         III         IV        V  VI        VII       VIII       IX        X       XI 

Tannin  solution  50/L  1000  850    700     600    500  420    350     280     240    200  100 

Water  0      150    300     400    500  580    650     720     760    800  900 

XII     XIII     XIV      XV     XVI  XVII    XVIII    XIX     XX     XXI     XXII 

100   200    240     280    350  420    500    600    700    850   1000 

900   800    760     720    650  580    500    400    300     150      0 
The  following  is  an  example  for  quick  change  of  dark  shades : 

I  II  III  IV  V  VI         VII       VIII         IX  X  XI 

Tannin       1000     800      600      400      200      100  200      400      600      800       1000 

Water  0        200      400      600      800      900  800      600      400      200  0 

After  foularding  the  goods  are  dried,  passed  through  the  Mather-Platt, 
fixed  with  Tartar  emetic,  and  then  dyed  with  basic  colours. 


—     120     — 


Recipes  for  the  Ombre  Effects  shown  on  page   121. 
1. 
75  ^  Methylene  Heliotrope  O  | 

2  lbs     2000  g  acetic  acid   12  Tw.  Colour  solution 

diluted  with  condensed  water  to  10  litres    I 
2  lbs     2000  g  acetic  acid  | 


8  lbs     8000  g 

condensed  water 

) 

unution 

1 

2 

:| 

4 

5 

6 

7 

Colour  solution 

1000 

700 

500 

300 

200 

100 

50 

Dilution : 

— 

300 

500 

700 

800 

900 

950 

8 

9 

10 

n 

IS 

13 

14 

Colour  solution 

50 

100 

200 

300 

500 

700 

1000 

Dilution: 

950 

900 

800 

700 

500 

300 

1000 

After  dyeing  the  goods  are    passed  cold    through    tannin  ('/.  oz  per  lb,     20  g  per  litre),  dried, 
steamed,   passed   through  Tartar  emetic  C/4  oz  per  lb,     10  g  per  litre)  washed  and  dried. 

2. 
3/<  oz  50  g  Dianil  Brown  3 GO 

"It  oz  50  g   Dianil   Brown    KM 

l'/s  oz         100  g  sodium  phosphate 

diluted  with  condensed  water  to   10  litres 
'/<  oz  50  g  Dianil  Green  G 

Vjt  oz  75  g  Dianil  Yellow   3G 

1  '  .   oz         100  g  sodium   phosphate 

diluted  with  condensed  water  to   10  litres 
100  g  sodium   phosphate  in 


Colour  solution  A 


Colour  solution  B 


l'/o    oz 
10  lbs 

Colour  solution  A  : 
Colour  solution  B: 
Dilution: 


10  litres  condensed  water 
12  3  4 

600        400        200        100 


Dilution 


400 


600         800 


900 


1000 


1000 


100 
900 


200 

800 


400 
600 


600 

400 


Alter  dyeing  the  goods  are  dried,   steamed   for  5  minutes  in   the  Mather-Platt,   washed  and  dried. 

3. 

2'/s   oz         150  g  Dianil   Claret   B  I 

l'/l   oz         100  g  sodium  phosphate  I    Colour  solution  A 

diluted  with  condensed  water  to   10  litres    J 
l'/a  oz         100  g  Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone, 
l'/a   oz         100  g  sodium   phosphate  I    Colour  solution  B 

diluted  with  condensed  water  to   10  litres    ) 
l'/«  oz         100  g  sodium   phosphate 
10  lbs  10  litres  condensed  water 


Dilution 


Colour  solution  A: 
Colour  solution  B: 
Dilution: 


600 


2      :i 
400    200 


100    — 


400 


600   800 


900 


After  dyeing,    the   goods    are    dried, 
dried  again. 


1000        1000 


100 
900 


200 
800 


400 
600 


10 


600 
400 


steamed    for  5  minutes    in    the  Mather-Platt,    washed    and 


l'/4 


4. 
extra 


1   lb 


2'/» 


1   lb 


2  oz 


1\4 


1   lb 


25  g  Brilliant  Green  cry! 
75  g  Auramine  cone. 
1000  g  acetic  acid    12  Tw. 

diluted  with  condensed  water  to   10  litres 
75  g   Brilliant  Green  crys.  extra 
1000  g  acetic  acid   12 "    I  w. 

diluted  with  condensed  water  to   10  litres 
150  g  Methylene  Blue  BB  cone. 
1000  g  acetic  acid   12"  Tw. 

diluted   with  condensed  water  to   10  litres 
120  g  Methylene   Blue   BB  cone. 
75  g  Methylene  Heliotrope  O, 
1000  g  acetic  acid    12"    I  w. 

diluted  with  condensed  water  to   10  litres 


Colour  solution  A 


Colour  solution   B 


Colour  solution   C 


Colour  solution  D 


1000 


1000 


Colour  solution  A: 

Colour  Bolutioi     1  1000       —  1000       — 

Colour  solution  C:         —         —       1000       —         —       1000       —         — 
Colour  solution   D:  —  —  —        1000     1000       —         —  — 

The  half    silk    cloth    had    been    previously  mordanted  with  2",o   tannin    ami    1",,   Tartar  emetic. 
After  dyeing  it   was  dried,  steamed  for  5  minutes  in  the  Mather-Platt.   washed  and  dried  again. 


—     121     — 
OMBRE  EFFECTS  ON  COTTON  AND  HALF  SILK. 


■HHHH 

1  1   1  1 

f  ■-#  .  | 

|  1 

■mm 

I 

i 

^ 

8  a  II 


—     122     — 

In  connection  with  padding  there  are  other  methods  carried  out  by  means 
of  printing  machines  which  may  here  be  briefly  sketched. 

Cotton  fabrics  with  raised  designs  are  printed  on  the  back  by  means  of 
a  fine  Picot  roller,  so  that  the  raised  design  on  the  face  remains  white,  viz. 
white  effects  on  coloured  grounds  are  obtained  which  have  the  appearance  of 
multicoloured  woven  fabrics. 

The  effects  thus  obtained  may  be  further  varied  by  printing  on  the  face 
by  way  of  surface  rollers,  which  also  give  a  two-coloured  effect. 

The  following  tw^o  patterns  Lapez  cloth  have  been  produced  by  the  first 
described  method.  The  pink  with  Dianil  Pink  BD,  the  light  blue  with  Dianil 
Blue  HG.  The  goods  are  foularded  on  the  back  with  the  roller  printing 
machine,  with 

1,5  g  dyestuff, 
6       oz  368,5  g  water, 
91/"  oz  600      g  tragacanth  (60:1000), 
1jt  oz     20      g  sodium  phosphate, 
l/i   oz     20      g  Turkey  red  oil. 

1   lb        1     kg 
After  printing  the  goods  are  dried  and  the  colours  fixed  by  steaming   for 
a  short  time. 


Various  other  articles,  imitating  piece  dyed  effects  are  also  produced  with 
the  aid  of  the  printing  machine.  The  so-called  Reversibles  are  fabrics  dyed  in 
different  colours  on  both  sides ;  they  are  chiefly  used  for  Linings  and  Umbrella 
cloths.  The  Calicoes  for  book  binding  purposes  also  belong  to  this 
category. 

For  these  goods,  lake  colours  which  are  fixed  with  blood  albumen  are 
used  exclusively,  because  with  them  it  is  easier  to  obtain  an  even  print  on  one 
side  of  the  cloth.  These  colours  answer  the  requirements  as  to  fastness  etc. 
very  satisfactorily  as  these  goods  are  not  subjected  to  washing. 

The  colours  are  printed  upon  the  face  side  of  the  cloth,  by  means  of 
rollers  which  are  very  evenly  engraved,  and  special  care  must  be  taken  that  the 
pressure  of  the  rollers  is  perfectly  even  all  over  and  not  too  strong. 


—     123     — 

For  the  preparation  of  the  printing  colours  lake  colours  are  used,  as  e.  g. 
soot  for  Grey,  logwood  for  Black,  Ultramarine  for  Blue,  Chrome  Yellow  for 
Yellow,  Chrome  Orange  for  Orange,  Ochre  for  Brown,  Pigment  Red  for  Red,  etc. 

For  thickening,  a  mixture  of  tragacanth  and  albumen  water  is  used,  to 
which  some  turpentine  is  added  is  order  to  prevent  it  from  frothing. 

After  printing  the  goods  are  steamed  either  in  the  closed  steam  box  or 
in  the  continuous  steamer,  and  then  immediately  finished. 


Instead  of  using  the  printing  machine  throughout,  Reversibles  are  also 
produced  by  dyeing  the  cloth  first  to  a  drab  shade,  and  then  padding  black 
on  the  back  by  means  of  an  apparatus  as  represented  in  fig.  39  ot  the 
,,Maschinenfabrik  Fr.  Gebauer  in  Berlin". 

The  cloth,  passes  under  tension  over  twice  picotted  rollers  which  receive 
the  colours  from  a  transfer  roller  rotating  in  furnishing  boxes  underneath. 
Having  taken  up  the  printing  colours,  they  are  then  passed  over  heated  metal 
plates,  and  finally  dried  on  the  drying  cylinder. 


— =*S*=~ 


WASHING. 

For     washing     and     rinsing     broad    washing-     or  padding    machines    are 

generally    used,    unless    the    goods    are    washed    in    the  dyeing    machine.     The 

washed  goods  leave  these  machines   through    squeezing  rollers    (retaining    about 


—     124     — 

o  of  liquid  only).  Fabrics  unable  to  stand  this  process  and  whose  ap- 
pearance suffers  under  the  pressure  of  the  squeezing  rollers,  are  hydroextracted, 
for  which  purpose  not  only  the  centrifugal  machine,  but  also  the  broad  hydro- 
extractor  are  to  be  considered. 


Fig.  40. 


Fig.  40  illustrates  the  principle  of  the  broad  hydroextractor. 

Recently  another  system  has  come  into  practical  use :  to  employ  suction 
for  removing  moisture  from  pieces.  In  these  machines  the  cloth  runs  over  the 
slit  of  a  suction  arrangement  (Fig.  41)  which  is  connected  with  a  so-called 
receiver.  The  latter  regulates  the  vacuum  and  at  the  same  time  receives  the 
drawn  off  liquid;  it  also  contains  a  special  valve  by  means  of  which  the  water 
is  automatically  removed. 


Fig.  41. 


—     125     — 

J.  P.  Bemberg   of  Barmen-Rittershausen  has  constructed   a   de-hydrator  on 
the  principle  of  a  decalizing  cylinder. 

In  this  apparatus  (Fig.  42)  the  water  is  blown  out  of  wet  goods  by  means 
of  compressed  air.  The  pieces  are  wound  on  a  perforated  cylinder,  one 
end  of  which  is  hermetically  closed  whilst  the  other  end  is  rested  air-tight 
upon  the  protruding  part  of  an  outlet  valve.  Over  the  whole  a  tight-fitting 
„bell"  is  placed.  Compressed  air  is  let  into  this  bell  and  this,  passing  from 
without  to  within  through  the  pieces  on  the  perforated  cylinder,  removes  about 
60°/o   of  liquid. 


C=^ 


/////////////, 


Fig.  42. 


This  process  has  this  advantage  over  the  ordinary  hydroextracting,  that 
the  pieces  need  not  be  frequently  rolled  and  unrolled,  which  means  saving  of 
time  and  labour. 


DRYING. 

The  goods,  according  to  their  nature  and  mode  of  dyeing,  are  dried  on 
frames  in  the  open,  by  steam  and  artificial  ventilation,  hotflue,  drying  cylinders 
or  hot  air  tentering  machines. 

Generally,  the  lower  the  temperature  at  which  the  dyed  fabrics  are  dried, 
the  less  the  shades  alter.  For  that  reason  the  most  advantageous  process  is 
to  hang  the  goods  for  drying:  but  as  this  process  requires  too  much  room  and 
too  long  a  time,  drying  on  machines  is  generally  preferred.  The  hotflue  is 
employed    mostly    in    combination    with    the    padding   machine;    and    the    most 


—     126     — 

efficient  machine  is  the  cylinder  drying  machine.  As  in  working  with  this 
machine,  the  cloth  comes  directly  into  contact  with  the  heated  metal  surface  of 
the  cylinders,  it  is  necessary  to  dry  on  them  only  such  colours  as  will  resist 
heat,  namely  colours  fast  to  ironing.  If  mordants  or  colours  are  to  be  dried 
which  are  sensitive  to  metal,  the  cylinders  must  be  covered  with  cotton  cloth. 
Drying  by  hanging  and  still  more  dying  on  the  drums  makes  the  goods 
shrink  more  or  less  in  width.  To  meet  this  drawback  and  at  the  same  time 
to  prevent  the  cloth  from  stretching  out  of  shape,  the  construction  of  the  hot 
air  tcntering-machines  has  been  devised.  In  point  of  efficiency  they  do  not 
equal  the  cylinder  drying  machines  and  therefore  both  machines  are  often  com- 
bined. In  working  on  tentering  frames,  the  cloth  is  taken  up  at  the  selvedges 
by  pins  or  clasps  and  thus  conducted  through  a  well  ventilated  hot  air  chamber. 

The  further  treatment  of  dyed  cotton  fabrics 

consists  in  the  finishing  process.  Naturally,  the  many-sided  demands  and  the 
diversity  of  articles  do  not  admit  of  any  fixed  rule  for  these  operations.  In  the 
following  lines,  therefore,  only  a  general  sketch  of  the  methods  of  finishing  is 
attempted. 

In  most  cases  the  dyed  goods  are  passed  through  the  finishing  preparation 
by  means  of  starching  machines,  after  which  they  are  dried  and  finished  on  a 
great  variety  of  machines. 

For  finishing  purposes  various  kinds  of  starch  are  used  for  stiffening,  fats, 
oils,  wax,  glycerine  for  softening  and  imparting  suppleness,  minerals  and  salts 
for  weighting,  antiseptics  for  preventing  the  formation  of  mould  on  the  cloth. 
Sometimes  the  goods  are  made  incombustible  by  treating  them  with  certain 
salts,  or  waterproofed  by  impregnating  them  in  various  ways. 

The  outer  appearance  and  the  handle  of  the  fabrics  is  altered  by  machines 
of  very  manifold  constructions.  Such  machines  are  the  singeing-,  shearing-, 
raising-,  brushing-,  steaming-,  sprinkling-,  breaking  machines,  calanders,  mangle-, 
beetle-  and  embossing  machines. 

These  manipulations  will  be  referred  to  when  dealing  with  the  separate 
kinds  of  fabrics. 


— =*gc— 


—     127     — 

HALF  SILK  DYEING. 

Silk  and  Cotton  Fabrics. 

The  half  silk  cloth  is  treated  before  dyeing,  like  all  silk,  in  a  hot  soap 
bath  of  194 — 203°  F;  if  necessary,  it  is  previously  bleached. 

For  bleaching  Peroxide  of  Hydrogen  is  used.  The  goods  are  treated  for 
4  —  5  hours  in  a  solution  of  3/4  parts  of  Silicate  of  Soda  of  77°  Tw.  to  every 
10  parts  of  Peroxyde.     Then  the  cloth  must  be  thoroughly  washed. 

The  dyeing  is  carried  out  in  the  which  or  on  the  jigger.  Closely  woven 
half  silk  fabrics  which  are  not  easily  dyed  through,  are  best  dyed  in  the  winch, 
lighter  qualities  on  the  jigger.  An  improved  method  for  half  silk  dyeing  is 
described   in   the  German  patent  No.  173876  and    illustrated  in  fig.  43  and  44. 


Fig.  43. 


Fig.  44. 


Before  the  cloth  which  is  winding  itself  onto  and  off  the  rollers  enters 
the  dye  bath  in  the  jigger,  it  is  vigorously  sprinkled  over  with  dye  liquid ;  the 
latter  is  sucked  up  by  a  vacuum  into  squirting  pipes  and  these  blow  the  liquid 
in  a  fine  spray  over  and  through  the  texture  of  the  material.  By  this  means 
the  dye  liquid  penetrates  the  fabric  boiling  hot  and  effects  an  initial  dyeing. 

After  the  cloth  has  left  the  dye  bath,  and  before  it  is  wound  upon  the 
rollers,  this  process  is  repeated. 

The  supply  of  air  to  the  squirting  pipes  is  effected  through  separate  pipes, 
which  are  connected  in  their  turn  with  the  sucking  tubes.  The  action  of  the 
latter  is  regulated  by  small  valves  which  are  opened  or  shut  according  to  the 
width  of  the  cloth. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  constant  movement  of  the  dye  liquid  during  the  dyeing 
operation,  a  pump  is  connected  with  the  jigger  in  such  a  manner  as  to  cause 
the  liquid  to  circulate  from  the  jigger  trough  to  the  pump  and  back  again. 

Cotton  and  silk  behave  in  regard  to  the  dyestuffs  either  in  the  same  or 
in  different  manner;  a  summary  of  which  is  given  below. 


—     128     — 

a)  Dianil  Colours. 

The  dyebath  for  light  and  medium  shades  contains  per  litre : 
2 — 3      g  soap, 
(1,1—0,2  g  soda, 
2 — 3      g  sodium  phosphate, 
3 — 4      g  common  salt. 
For  dark  shades  the  amount  of  common  salt  is  increased  to  7  g  per  litre. 
Generally  the  goods   are   entered  at   about  122°  F,    then   the   temperature 
is  slowly  raised  to   194°  F,  and  the  dyeing  process  finished  at  this  temperature 
in      i   hours. 

The  goods  are  then  rinsed  and  either  softened  with  a  little  muriatic  or 
acetic  acid,  or,  if  it  is  necessary  to  top  the  colours,  topped  in  a  bath  at 
104 — 122°  F,  acidified  with  muriatic  or  acetic  acid;  they  are  then  lustred. 

b)  Basic   Colours. 

The  goods  are  mordanted  (like  cotton),  with  tannin  and  salts  of  antimony, 
rinsed  and  dyed  in  a  weak  acid  bath  with  basic  colours. 

For  the  production  of  two-colour  effects  the  brands  named  under  No.  I 
are  best  suited.  In  order  to  make  the  silk  as  white  as  possible,  the  quantity 
of  soap  in  the  bath  is  increased,  and  the  goods  not  dyed  too  hot  (about  122°  F). 
They  are  then  well  rinsed  and  topped  with  acid  colours  at  about  104°  F,  some 
muriatic  or  acetic  acid  being  added. 

For  topping  silk  the  dyestuffs  enumerated  under  No.  6  a  are  used. 

c)    Thiogene   Colours. 

Of  Thiogene  Colours  it  is  chiefly  Black  which  is  to  be  considered  in 
half  silk  dyeing,  because  it  is  thereby  possible  to  obtain  black  goods  with 
white  silk  effects. 

The  goods  are  dyed  for  about  an  hour  at  86°  F  with  25°,'o  Thiogene 
Black  solution,  with  an  addition  of  30  g  bran  per  litre  colour  solution.  Unboiled 
wheat  starch  or  wheat  flour  give  similar  results. 

The  following  pattern  has  been  dyed  as  above  with  the  addition  of  bran. 


—     129     — 

1.    Dyestuffs    which    dye    Cotton    and    Silk    alike. 

Aurophenine  O,  Janus  Yellow  R,  G, 

Cresotine  Yellow  G,  Janus  Brown  R, 

Dianil  Brown  3 GO,  Janus  Red  B. 


2.    Dyestuffs    which    dye    Cotton    deeper    than    Silk. 

Dianil  Yellow  2R,  3G,  1  Hanil  Azurine  G, 

Dianil  Pure  Yellow  HS,  Dianil  Brown  G,  B,  BD,  M,  R,  D,  MH, 

Dianil  Fast  Red  PH,  Dianil  Fast  Brown  B, 

Dianil  Orange  N,  Dianil  Darkblue  3R, 

Toluylene  Orange  R,  Dianil  Black  CR, 

Deltapurpurine  5B,  Dianil  Green  G, 

Brilliant  Dianil  Red  R,  Dianil  Violet  H, 

Dianil  Red  R,  4B,   10B,  Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone. 

Dianil  Blue  2R,  4R, 


3.    Dyestuffs    which    dye    Silk    deeper    than    Cotton. 
Dianil  Yellow  G,   R. 


4.    Dyestuffs    which  dye    Cotton    almost    exclusively. 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S,  Dianil  BlueG.B.R,  HG,  H2G.H3  G,  H6G 

Oxydianil  Yellow  O,  Dianil  Darkblue  R, 

Dianil  Orange  G.  Dianil  Black  ES. 


5.    Dyestuffs   which   dye   Silk,    leaving    Cotton    white. 

Acid  Magenta  extra,  Flavazine  S, 

Acid  Maroon  O,  Azo  Yellow  cone, 

Acid  Violet  3RS,  Orange  No.  2, 

Acid  Green  cone.  Scarlet  R,  (5R, 

Patent  Blue  V,  Victoria  Rubine  O, 

Naphtol  Yellow  S,  Fast  Red  S. 
Flavazine  T, 


9  ii 


—     131 


<;     Dyestuffs   suitable   for   topping   Half  Silk. 
a     F(  >r  Silk  : 


Acid   Magenta  extra, 
Acid  Maroon  '  >, 

i  erise  O, 
A.  ul  Violet,  all  brands, 
Methyl  Blue  for  Silk  MLB, 

„      for  Cotton  MLB. 
I  hie,    blue  shade, 
I  ipal   Blue  superior  soluble. 
Blue  for  Silk  T,  T  cone,  greenish, 

99,  KR, 
Acid  Green  cone, 
Patentblue  V.  A. 
Violamine,  all  brands, 
Fast    Blue,  all  brands, 
Black  Blue  (  i. 
Black-Black  O, 
Fast  Darkblue  R, 
Nigrosine  No.   1,  4, 
Chinoline  Yellow  O,  cone, 
Naphthol  Yellow  S. 
Bast    Yellow    O, 


Last  Yellow  S  new, 

Az"  Yellow  cone, 

New  Yellow  II, 

Flavazine   T, 

Flavazine  S, 

Rosazeine  (\    B,    extra,    B  extra,    4G, 

4G  extra, 
Orange  G,  No.   J, 
Brilliant   I  (range  <i,   O,   R. 
Solid  Brown  <  >.  yellow  shade. 
Scarlet  G,  R,  OR,  B  extra, 
Scarlet  6R  cryst., 
Brilliant    Crocein,    yellow    shade,     blue 

shade,  R,  B,  BB.  3B,  5B, 
Fast  Red  O,  S. 
Brilliant  Crimson  O, 
Amaranth  O, 

Diamond  Scarlet  for  Silk  G, 
Scarlet  for  Silk  O,  G, 
Amidonaphthol    Black    4B,    4B    extra, 

6B,  S. 


b)   For  Cotton : 


Auramine  cone, 
Phosphine  new, 
Flavophosphine,  all  brands, 
Methylene  Yellow  H, 
Chrysoidine  A  cryst.,  C  cryst.,  C 

extra  cryst  . 
Vesuvine  cone.,  ;;R  superfine,  4BGconc, 

extra  yellow, 

a,   large   cryst.,   small  cryst., 

<  !ei  isc  ( i, 
Grenadine  <  », 

<  animal    R, 
Maroon  <  I, 

'.i  (  ', 


Methyl  Violet,  all  bran. Is. 

Violet  0  cryst.. 

Primula  R,  B 

Brilliant  Green  cryst.  extra. 

Malachite  Green  cryst.  extra, 

Safranine  cone, 

Methylene  Violet  RRA.  RRX.  BX, 

Methylene    Blue    BB   extra,    BB   cone, 

BB,  R,  6R, 
Methylene  Green  O,  G,  GG,  3G,  extra 

yellow,   extra  yellow   cone, 
Methylene  Grey  O,  NFS 
Rosazeine    O,    B,    extra,    B    extra,    4G, 

4G  extra. 


131 


Recipes    for   page    132. 


0,5  °/0  Scarlet  3R 
dyed  in  a  sulphuric  acid    bath. 


2. 

4°/o  Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S 
topped   in  a  sulphuric  acid   balh   with 
1  °/o  Acid  Green  cone. 


0,3  °/o  Patentblue  A 
dyed  in  a  sulphuric  acid  bath. 


3°/o  Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S, 
l°/o  Dianil  Blue  H6G, 
topped  in  a  sulphuric  acid  bath   with 
0,6  °/o  Fast  Acid  Eosine  G. 


4°/o  Dianil  Direct  Yellow  S 

topped  in  a  sulphuric  acid  bath  with 

0,3  °/0  Acid  Magenta  O. 


6. 


0,5 °/o  Patent  Dianil  Black  FF  cone. 


4°/o  Dianil  Darkblue  R 
topped  in  a  sulphuric  acid  bath  with 
0,9  °/o  Victoria  Blue  B, 
0,1  °/o  Acid  Magenta  extra, 
0,03  °/o  Orange  II. 


2,5  °/0  Dianil   Red  5B, 
1,8  °/0   Dianil  Crimson  B, 
0,9 °/0  Dianil  Brown  BD, 
topped  in  a  sulphuric  acid  bath  with 
0,04  °/o  Methyl  Violet  5R  extra. 


2°/0  Dianil  Brown  BD, 
2°/o  Dianil  Brown  3  GO, 
l°/o  Dianil  Black  CR, 
topped  in  a  sulphuric  acid  bath  with 
1,3  °/o  Fast  Blue  O. 


10. 

7%  Patent  Dianil   Black  FF  cone, 
topped  in  a  sulphuric  acid  bath  with 
3°/o  Amidonaphthol  Black  4B  special 


—     132     — 
HALF  SILK     EFFECTS. 


'V 


#. 





—     133 

LACE,  BRAID,  RIBBON  AND  TWINE  DYEING. 

Laces  and  fabrics  of  a  Net  character  are  dyed  on  the  winch. 
The  initial  treatment  of  this  class  of  goods  by  singeing,  boiling  or  bleaching 
must  depend  on  the  effect  to  be  produced. 

Blacks  are  obtained  with  Thiogene  Black  or  with  Dianil  Black  CR,  topped 
with  Aniline  Black  (compare  vol.  I  page  201).  After  washing,  these  goods  are 
usually  starched  on  the  winch,  slightly  hydroextracted  and  dried  on  the 
tentering  machine. 

Half  Silk  Ribbons  are  also  dyed  on  the  winch  which,  in  order  to  prevent 
the  material  from  knotting,  is  fitted  with  dividing  boards  which  keep  the 
ribbons  asunder. 

Cotton  Braids  and  narrow  Ribbons  are  dyed  either  in  the  cistern,  like 
cotton  yarns,  or  in  a  mechanical  dyeing  apparatus,  according  to  the  packing 
system. 

The  choice  of  the  requisite  dyestuffs  depends  also  in  this  case  on  the 
desired  fastness.     As  a  rule  the  direct  colours  suffice  for  these  articles. 

Twine  is  dyed  on  special  machines.  The  material  of  flax  (linen)  or  hemp 
is  continuously  passed  through  a  bath  which  has  been  prepared  with  basic 
dyestuffs,  alum,  or  acetic  acid,  then  through  a  drying  apparatus.  Finally  the 
goods  are  sized  and  lustred  on  brushing  machines. 


L>.     rt.    1-iiu.L.    HisnARY 
North  Carolina  State  College 


Index  for  Volume  II. 


Acid  Cerise   I  10 

Acid  Dyestuffs  79. 

Acid  Green  130. 

Acid  Magenta   130. 

Acid  Maroon   130. 

Acid  Violet  130. 

Aftertreatment  for  altering 
the  handle  of  goods  57;  — 
of  cops  and  cheeses  61. 

Alizarine  74. 

Alizarine  Blue  1,  2,  6,  9,   10, 

13,  14,  17,  77. 
Alizarine  Brown  2,  10,  13,  14, 

17,  713,  77. 
Alizarine  Claret  2,  9,  13,  14, 

17,  76. 
Alizarine  Colours  11,  14. 
Alizarine  Dark  Blue  2,  6,  13, 

14. 
Alizarine  Green  2,  9,  12,  13, 

14,  17,  77. 
Alizarine  Lilac  76. 
Alizarine  Orange  1,  2,  6, 9, 11, 

12,  13,  14,  17,  74. 
Alizarine  Pink  75. 
Alizarine  Red  1,  2,  9,  12,  13, 

14,  17,  75. 
Alizarine  Yellow  1,  2,  3,  9,  10, 

13,  It,   17,  74. 
Alpha-Naphthylamene  Claret 

:;,  9,  87. 
Amaranth  130. 
Amidonaphthol  Black  130. 
Aniline  Black  1,  2,  7,  10,  12, 

13,  II,  I''.,  17,  18,  20. 
Aniline   Oxidation  Black  81. 
Auraminc  :'.,  6,  8,  11,   15,  16, 

17,  18,  118,   I  10. 
Aurophenine    13,    K>,   17,   18, 

19,  22,  :.7,  115,  129. 


Azo  Colours  insoluble,  86. 
Azophor  Black  s-<. 
Azophor  Blue  3,  17,  B8. 
Azophor  Orange  3,  7,  9,  11, 

13,  14.  88. 
Azophor  Pink  88. 
Azophor  Red  2,  7,  9,   11,  13, 

14,  17,  20,  86. 

Azo  Phosphine  4,  6,  8,  10, 12, 

15,  16,  17. 

Azo  Yellow  cone.  130. 

Basic  Colours  14. 
Black  Black  130. 
Blue  for  silk  130. 
Braid  Dyeing   134. 
Brilliant  Crimson  130. 
Brilliant  Croceine   (i,  9,   130. 
Brilliant  Dianil  Red  9,  13,  19, 

22,  115,  129. 
Brilliant  Green  cryst.    extra 

5,  G,  8,  12,  118,  131. 
Brilliant  Orange  6,  9,  130. 

Cardinal  130. 

Cerise  4,  8,  12,  130. 

Ceruleine  2,  6,  !t,  13,  14,  17, 
78. 

Chinoline  130. 

Chromoglaucine  78,  79. 

Chrysoidine  4,  8,  12,  16,  130. 

Coloured  Discharges  91. 

Cone.  Cotton  Blue  8, 10, 11, 12. 

Cops  and  cheeses,  aftertreat- 
ment of  — ,  61. 

Cotton,  dyeing  of,  in  its  unspun 
state;  loose  — ,  21;  carded 
— ,  26;  —  rovings,  27. 

Cotton  Blue  extra  8,  10. 


Cotton  Colours,  fast  to  bleach- 
ing 1 ;  —  fast  to  chlorine  2; 

—  fast   to  washing  3;  — 

—  fast  to  water  5;  —  fast 
to  perspiration  6;  —  fast  to 
boiling  in  acids  6;  —  fast  to 
acid  B;  —  fast  to  ironing  12; 

—  fast  to  steaming  13;  — 
fast  to  milling  14;  —  fast 
to  stoving  15;  —  fast  to 
rubbing  and  calandering  16; 

—  fast  to  light  17;  —  fast 
to  vulcanizing  18;  action  of 
hydrosulphite    on    — ,    19; 

—  suitable  for  mechanical 
machine  dyeing  57. 

Cotton  Light  Blue  10. 

Cotton  Piece  Dyeing  103;  — 
in  the  cistern  105 ;  —  on 
the  jigger  107;  —  on  the 
padding  machine  109;  — 
on  the  continuous  dyeing 
machine  111;  padding  or 
foularding  113. 

Cotton  Yarn,  dyeing  of,  hank 
dyeing  33;  warps  51;  cops 
and  cheeses  54;  weighting 
of—,  60;  printing  of—,  62. 

Cresotine  Yellow  '■'•,  5.  18,  14, 
16,  17,  18,  19,  22,  115,  129. 

Cutch  Brown  8,  12. 

Cyanosine  5. 

Dark  Brown  M,  9,  12. 
Delta    Purpurine    9,    13,    19, 

22,  57,  115,  129. 
Diamont  Scarlet  130. 
Dianil  Azurine  4,  5,  8,  10,  11 

16,  17,  19,  22,  57,  129. 


135     — 


Dianil   Black  4,    7,    8,    9,    10, 
11,    12,  1?,    14,    15,   16,    17, 

18,  20,  22,  36,  57,  115,129. 
Dianil  Blue   5,   8,  10,   11,  13. 

16,  18,  19,  22,  57,  115,  129. 

Dianil  Brown   4,    5,   7,   8,   9, 

11,    13,  14,    15,    16,    17,    1\ 

19,  22,  57,  115,   129. 
Dianil    Chrome  Brown    3,    7, 

8,  9,  14,  19,  57. 
Dianil  Claret  Red  5,  6,  8,  18, 

19,  22,  57. 

Dianil  Colours,  all,  14,  16. 
Dianil  Crimson  8, 17, 19, 22, 57. 
Dianil  Dark  Blue  5,  8,  11,  13, 

16,  18,  20,  22,  57,  115,  129. 
Dianil  Dark  Green   5,  8,   16, 

20,  22,  57,  115. 

Dianil  Direct  Yellow  2,  4,  8, 

11,    13,   15,    17,   18,    19,  22, 

57,  115,  129. 
Dianil  Fast  Brown  3,  5,  7,  9, 

13,  14,   15,  16,  10,    22,  115, 

129. 
Dianil  Fast  Red    3,   5,  8,  13, 

15,  16.  17,  19,  57,  129. 
Dianil  Fast  Scarlet  8,  10,  16, 

19,  22,  115. 
Dianil  Green  5,  8,  13,  16,  20, 

22,  57,  115,  129. 
Dianil  Indigo   5,  8,  9,  10,  16, 

17,  18,  19,  22,  57. 

Dianil   Japonine   5,  8,   9,  11, 

15,  17,  19,  22,  115. 
Dianil  Jet  Black  36. 
Dianil  Orange  4,  5,  7,   8,   10, 

13,   15,    16,    17,    is,   19,  22, 

57,  115,  129. 
Dianil  Pink  5,9,13,  16,17,  19, 

22,  57,  115 
Dianil  Pure  Yellow  5,  13,  19, 

57,  12!'. 
Dianil  Red   6,  13,  18,   19,  22, 

57,   115,  129. 
Dianil  Scarlet  8,  9,  11,  13,  19, 

22,  57. 
Dianil  Violet  5,9,  1:!,   17,   19, 

22,  57,  115,  129. 
Dianil  Yellow   5,    8,    10,    11, 

13,   15,    17,    is,   19,  22,   57, 

115,  12'.'. 
Dianisidine  Blue  3,  13,  17. 


Diphenyl  Black  1,  3,  7,  9,  11, 
13,  14,  16,  17,  18,  20. 

Diphenyl  Black  Base  I,  84. 

Discharge  Blue,  91. 

Discharge  Effects,  89  ;  —  upon 
Dianil  Dyestuffs  90 ;  —  with 
Basic  Colours  93. 

Discharge  Green  '.'1. 

Discharge  Yellow,  4,  91. 

Eosine,  5,  6,  79. 
Eosine  Scarlet  5. 
Ervthrosine 

Ethyl  Blue  3,  7,  B,  11,  13,  15, 
16,   17. 

Fast  Blue  130. 

Fast  Blue  Black  130. 

Fast  Blue  for  Cotton  4,  8,  10, 

11,  13,  16,  17. 
Fast  Brown  130. 
Fast  Dark  Blue  130. 
Fast  Red  130. 
Fast  Yellow  130. 
Flavazine  130. 
Flavophosphine    3,    6,   8,    12, 

15,  16,  17,   is,  lis,  130. 
Foularding  113. 

Galleine  2,  13,  14,  17. 
Grenadine  4,  8,  12. 
Grey  for  Silk  8. 

Half-Silk  Dyeing  127. 
Hydrosulphite,   action  of,   — 

on  Cotton   Colours  19;    — 

discharges  90. 

Indamine  Blue  4,  7,  8,  10,  11, 

13,  15,  16,   17. 
Indigo  1,  2,  6,  9,   11,   13,   14, 

16,  17,  20,  57. 
Indophene  Blue  4,   7,  8,    10, 

13,  15,  16,  17. 
Insoluble  Azo  Colours  86. 

Janus  Black  4,  9,  13. 

janus  Blue  4,  7,8,  10,  11,  13, 

14,  16. 

Janus  Brown  3,   7,  8,   10,  13, 

14,  129. 
Janus  Dark  Blue  4,  7,  11,  16. 


Janus  Green  4,  7,  9,  13,  15, 16. 
Janus  Grey  4,  15. 
Janus  Red  3,  8,  13,  129. 
janus  Yellow  3,   4,   7,   8,  18, 
14,  Hi,  17,  129. 

Keton  Blue   130. 

Lace  Dyeing   134. 

Light  Blue  Superfine,  130. 

Linen  Yarn  Printing  96. 

Magenta  4,  8,  12,  18,  130. 
Malachite  Green  5,   6,  8,   12, 

131. 
Marine  Blue  3,  8,  12. 
Maroon  extra  4,   8,   12,   131. 
Melanogene  Blue  9,  12,  17. 
Metanitraniline  Orange    2,  3. 
Methyl  Blue  for  Cotton  8,  10, 

12,"  130. 
Methyl  Blue  for  Silk  130. 
Methyl  Violet  3,  4,  8,  12,  15, 

18,  131. 
Methylene  Blue   3,    6,   8,   11, 

12,  15,  16,   17,  131. 
Methylene  Dark  Blue  13. 
Methylene  Green  4,  6,  8,  13, 

15,  16.   17,  131. 
Methylene  Grey  4,  8,  10,  11, 

15,  16.  17,  131. 
Methylene  Heliotrope  3,  6,  8, 

12,  15,  16,  17,  18. 
Methylene  Indigo  13. 
Methylene  Violet  3,  6,  8,  12, 

15,  16,  17,  131. 
Methylene  Yellow  3,  6,  8,  11, 

12,  15,  16,  18,  130. 
Mordant  Colours  16. 
Mordants  used  in  Yarn  Print- 
ing 64. 

Naphthol  Yellow  130. 
Naphtylamene    Claret    2,    7, 

11,  13,  14,  87. 
New  Ethyl  Blue  4,   7,  8,   11, 

15,  16,  17. 
New  Fast  Blue  4, 11,13, 16,  17. 
New   Magenta  4,   8,   12,   18, 

131. 
New  Yellow  130. 
Nigrosine   130. 
Nitroso  Blue  3,  13,  16. 


136     — 


lours  produced 
.  31. 
().\i<ii:inil  Yellow  2,   4,  5,    B, 

10,  II,    13,  15,   IT.    18,  19, 
57,  115,  129. 

^113. 
Paranitraniline   Red  2,   7,  9, 

11,  13,  14,  17,  18,  'JO. 
Patent  Blue  130. 

1  lianil  Black  5,  9,  12, 
115,  129. 
hromine  78,  79. 
Phloxim 

i.    3,    10,    12,    15, 
16,   17,  130. 
Primula  3,  8,  131. 
Primuline  1,  3,  4,  7,  8,  9,  10, 
11.  13,  It.  15,  16,  17,  22,57. 
Pure  Blue  8,  10,  12. 

Rainbow  Effects  115,   —    for 
I  »ianil  Colours  116;    —   for 
irs  lis. 
nine  130,  131. 
i  iyi  ing   134. 
Rosalane  3,  6,  8,  12,  17. 
Rosanilin 
Rosazein.    3,  6,  B,  11,  12,  16, 


Rosazeine  Scarl.  I  3,  >■.  8,   1". 

12.  16,  1- 

Rose  Bengale  5,  6. 

Safranine  3,   6,  8,  12.  !•".,   16, 

17.  1-.   US   181. 
Safranine  scarlet  3,  4, 8, 12, 16. 
Scarlet  130;  -   for  Silk  180. 
Scroop    Handle,    production 

Solid  Green  2,  7,  9;  -  Bistre 

13,  l  l.   16,  17. 
Steam  Aniline  Black  B2. 
Steam  Colours,  all  71. 

Tartrazine  130. 
Thickenings   used    for    Yarn 

Printing  63. 
Thiogene  Black  9,  11,  12,  is, 

57. 
Thiogene  Blue  9,  18,  57. 
Thiogene   Brown    9,    11,    12, 

18,  57. 

Thiogene  Catechu  9,  18. 
Thiogene    Colours,    all   3,    6, 

13,  It.  16,  17,  18,  80. 
Thiogene  Cyanine  2,9,  18,  57. 
Thiogene   Dark    Mine   1".  57. 
Thiogene  Dark  Red  9,  12. 
Thiogene  Diamand  Black  12, 

57- 
Thiogene   Golden    Yellow  9, 

12.  .-.7. 


I  hiog<  ii'    i  in  <  d  9,  ' 
Thiogene  I  leliotrope  9. 
Thiogene  Khaki  9,   1 

1".    12. 

18,  57. 

Rubine  9,  12.  ".7. 
Thiogene  Violet  9. 
Thiogene  Yellow  9.   12,  57. 
Thionine  Mine  :•;,  t;,  \  n,  12, 

15,   If,,  17.   IIS 
Tinsalt  Discharges  92. 
Toluylene  Orange  4,  5,  7,  13, 

15,   16,    17.    18,    19,  22,  .',7, 
,   129. 
Turkey  Red  20. 
Twine  I  ly<  ing  134, 

Vesuvine  4,  8,  11,  12,  15,  130. 
Victoria  Blue  3,  7,  8,  12,  1"., 

18. 
Victoria  Rubine  130. 
Violamine  130. 
Violet  Crystals  3,  B,  12,  131. 

Weighting  of  Cotton  Yarn  60. 

Yarn  Printing,  preparation .oi 

the  yarn  for  —  62;  thicken- 
ings used  for  —  63;  mord- 
ants used  in —  64;  machine 
for  —  65;  methods  of  — 
69,  71;  linen  —  96. 
Yellow  for  Leather  8. 


